GrahamPaige29

Thanks guys!

Ok no radio here! Thanks!

Thanks Paul. I guess I'm showing my lack of knowledge but is my 6 volt system all right with using modern cables? I'm really confused about the difference between high and low tension systems. I went to get a set of universal cables from my parts store and they weren't sure they were right for my '29.

Hi guys. I need a new spark plug cable set for my '29 Graham Paige. Two (maybe stupid) questions. It's a straight 6 by the way. Where can I buy more period looking cloth cables and am I looking for any particular specs for a car that old? I've heard modern cables aren't right. Thanks.

Looks like 55-60 will do it. It's a cast iron head. Thanks a lot!

Hi guys. I'm getting closer to re-installing the head and manifold on my 1929 Graham Paige model 612. I have brand new copper gaskets for both. Issue is, I'm not exactly sure what torque settings I should use on nuts. I know that you tighten the inmost ones first, then move outwards. I just don't have the "specs" on this particular car. It's a straight six. Is there a "typical" setting to use? Thanks!

Ahh that's cool. I love learning this kind of stuff. I'm not a mechanic but I'm slowly but surely learning this as I assemble my car. Thanks a lot for the info!

Paul, what does the spring actually do? Isn't the gear capable of traveling back and forth in the channel without it? I'm confused about it's purpose.

It's pretty ingenious. The only downside I can see to the Bendix system is the gears take a pretty good beating when the flywheel meshes. No wonder they had to come up with something else. Luckily, all my gear teeth look pretty good. Not bad for an 88 year old car.

Thanks you guys! I cleaned up the gear and it came unstuck. It spins in perfectly when I apply current. I'm guessing that it spins out in its own once the motor catches. The little pin helps it to stay in position like Paul said. Thanks again!

Hi guys. I'm inspecting my starter for my 29 graham. When i apply some current, the motor spins fine but the gear does not change position. Is it supposed to move toward the free end? If you look at picture 2 you can see a small pin. It seems to be keeping the year in place. Is it supposed to be between the spiral grooves? I'm wondering if it's jammed.

Ok. Now I'm thinking I should check the contact between the valves and seats with prussian blue dye and then maybe get the larger valves machined down to fit like the smaller ones. The seats are all ground to 45 degrees.

Hi guys. This is puzzling to me. I'm restoring a 1929 Graham Paige 612. I have freshened the valve seats and installed new valve guides. I ordered new valves from Egge with the number/spec according to according to the data sheet. Note that the intake/exhaust are two different numbers. I got them in the mail but here's the mystery...the intake and exhaust are two different head diameters. Even though the old burnt up valves I took out had the same head size. Look at this photo... this doesn't make sense to me since the valve seats are the exact same size ... If you put the valves in, one sits lower and almost flush with the surface (the one on the right), and the other one rides higher, much like the old valves. I'm confused. If the valve seats are the same size, why would the valve seats be two different diameters??? It seems to me like the one that is installed on the right in the pictures is correct as it's 45 degree angle sits in more contact with the seat. Ideas? Thought???

Maybe it's cheaper to get a machinist to make two of them.

Here's a picture of the part.

Hi guys. I mangled a couple of my valve spring retainers for my '29 Graham Paige. When I go to find replacements, they are sold in complete sets. Anybody know a place that sells them one at a time and by size?

Thanks you guys. I'll try there...

Hi guys. I'm having trouble locating a piston ring set for my 1929 Graham Paige model 612. I know the bore size (3") and the ring face wall thickness (1/8") and radial wall thickness (1/8") and the oil ring thickness (3/16"). I don't even want to go into my local parts stores because the zombies in there just say "we can't get it unless you have a parts number". Is there a place you guys order from where you can look up rings by size?

Thanks Rusty.

Thanks guys. I'm going to inspect them again and try to find somebody who can test them. I do recall seeing somewhere the specs. I'll have do do some internet digging to find them again. I guess no sense assuming brand new springs would be any more "accurate" than these ones.

Hi guys. I have my engine apart for my 1929 Graham Paige 612. I'm currently replacing the valve guides, valves (expensive!!) and I'm wondering if the valve springs should be replaced as well. They seem tight and visually good. What do you think? Take them somewhere to get them bench tested or pawn my wife's clothes to buy new ones along with the already costly list of parts?

Oh that makes sense. Thanks Paul!!

Hi guys. I managed to locate valve guides for my 1929 Graham Paige. They are the right dimensions to replace the old ones but these new ones have a different shape. One end is the proper inside diameter (.343") and the other end has a slightly larger opening tapering down to the proper .343" size. You can see this in the pics. My question is...which way up toward the valve head? I ask because my old guides were the same size opening at each end. My guess is, the small tight opening goes on the top and the larger bottom one was meant to accommodate some kind of packing (if it's used). Am I right?

Thanks Jon. I got a rebuild kit for that carb and I'm going to try it.