• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

11 Good

About Ralph55

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I try to restore the trunk light in my 1955 Super - all that's left is a cut wire dangling from the trunk lid and an empty light bulb socket. Quite a sad sight... Can someone post a photo how those two connections look(ed) originally? What kind of bulb is correct there and where should the 12 V connection emerge from the body side? I added the bulb and the connector on the wire during my experiments:
  2. Yesterday I removed the door trim of one of the rear windows which still was equipped with the original felts: those staples were really twisted from the backside! I needed an angle grinder to remove them - that's a kind of sturdy quality you won't see today any more 🙃 After finding a proper way to bend the rear window felts so they'll match the body shape I decided to use adhesive to attach the felts supported by some tiny screws.
  3. hehehe... glueing the felts right to the metal is something that came to my mind, too - but if you want to keep your car "original" you've to do some research on how the real craftsmen solved the problems in times I wasn't event born 😉 If I take a look at my staples I think they'll never pinch through metal....
  4. Last year I bought some window felts and some kinda strange little rectangular brackets for attaching them to the door. Because the window felts on the front doors of my 1955 super were (probably) attached at the wrong position I didn't change them. Today at a car show I noticed the holes of/for those brackets in a 56 Special (see attachment below): The window felts of the Special are obviously long gone - but you can still see the holes of the brackets. So my question ist: How do I "shoot" the brackets through the felt + door metal? Is there a trick or some kind of metal penetrating nail/bracket gun???
  5. You mean a vapor separator with a return tube? Like this one from Mopar...
  6. Sorry, I did forget to mention that my Carter pump arrived from the US yesterday and I'll replace the Airtex in the engine compartment with the Carter back at the tank. Great thing aside: Because amazon International couldn't meet the delivery date they didn't charge shipping - so the pump was really a bargain... 😁 But are you really sure with the suction side? At 1:54 it''s boiling between pump and carb -->
  7. After a 20 miles highway drive I sampled the temperatures along the fuel path - it turned out the fuel is probably boling inside the metal fuel filter close to the carb which draws heat from the engine block obviously! As there are two filters (one is right after the pump) I'll remove the one right before the carburetor. To avoid the fuel boils inside the carb bowl I'll add an additional insulating base gasket for the Carter WCFB.
  8. Oh... after a quick check: I didn't install the safety relay a year ago - because I couldn't find the oil pressure switch back then 😬 After doing some research I think there is only an oil pressure sensor for the gauge - but no switch because there's no separate warning light. I found one article on how to "retrofit" the 322 with an electric oil pressure switch using the 'little tapped hole just above the oil filter mount'. Do I have to get an oil pressure switch or would it work if I just attach the wire of the relay reading "to oil pressure switch" to the pressure sensor?
  9. @Marty Roth I did already add that kind of "emergency shutdown" relay to the pump 👨‍🚒
  10. @old-tank the recommended Carter fuel pump P60504 is discontinued. 😪 The successor is P90091 which only makes half of the gallons per hour. Do you think 15 GPH are still enough? The P60504 had 30 GPH... Though the Carter info tells me P90091 is the replacement part for P60504, my guess would be https://outlawspeed.com.au/shop/fmp60430
  11. cool! 😍 Next week I'll replace the Airtex and relocate the pump. Then I'll use a thermo-insulated hose for the last mile!
  12. Reflecting on Tank's input and having a look at the new arrangement of the fuel line after motor revision (Image 1) it seems the metal line right over the engine block creates a "grill enviroment" 😁 So if the engine heats up it "grills" the fuel inside the pipe over the whole length. Probably the pipe literally soaks up the heat because being made of metal 😱 Pump to filter Tank to pump (it's a low pressure one)
  13. Hm... I see - moving it away from the engine compartment keeps the pump cool. Do you think it would help if I wrap the fuel line and pump with https://www.thermotec.com/products/sleeving/express-sleeves ?
  14. Thanks for the hint, Tank 🙂 Never heard of a vapor lock before - but I'm here to learn... I added an electric fuel pump in the engine compartment. What would be the reason to mount it near the tank? The current thermostat is brand new and was replaced during the engine revision in winter. So when the pump is electrical - can a vapor lock still occur? I think the pump keeps pushing fuel to the carb - even if the fuel between pump and carb is vaporized.
  15. Does anyone know the temperature range of the gauge in 1955 or 1956 Buicks? My 1955 Super shut down the engine while driving when the temperature reached N (the center position of the gauge). After 20 minutes of cool down the engine started again. When checking the actual temperature of the radiator (with a BBQ thermometer 😋 ) when the needle pointed to N I found out that's just 150 deg Fahrenheit! With my 66 GTO the regular temperature is 170 deg. I tried to find the water temperature range in the shop manual - but no luck there: