Bloo

On what scale though? 600W most likely predates all of them because it comes from the age of steam. Somewhere I have a datasheet for current Mobil steam cylinder oil. I am on a road trip though, so can't just post it. There are four Steam Cylinder oils on the sheet. Two are branded "600W" and two are not. If I remember correctly, one of the "600W" oils is ISO 460 in viscosity and the other is unspecified. The other 2 were thicker, but not branded "600W". The ISO viscosity scale refers to a specific viscosity. The SAE scale does not. They don't line up. Ok, I'll stop now too...

I think it's a head bolt heater (block heater).

Thank you for posting that! I too though it just meant "what you put in a grease cup" but I still always wondered what the composition was. So it's Calcium based then. That's good to know. Similar to water pump grease maybe?

If it works on a gas can, checking for a clog is easy. Tee a vacuum gauge into the suction side of the fuel pump with the gas tank hooked back up. It will pull up a bunch of vacuum if the line is plugged. If the line is not plugged and you still aren't getting gas, you have an air leak.

I hate to be contrary here, but 600W in steam oil never did refer to viscosity, and probably referred to the flash point in Fahrenheit. Today it is a brand of steam oil owned by Mobil. You can buy some if you like, Today they offer it in two different viscosities. Steam oil was used commonly in transmissions up until the mid 1930s at least, and probably longer in older cars. It was pretty thick. SAE 250 is indeed likely the closest equivalent. I am not arguing for (or against) the use of 600W. Eating brass is a separate issue. Pick one that is safe for "yellow metals". When you pick something, read the datasheet. That Penrite stuff @Minibago posted looks good. For those looking for Penrite products in the US, Restoration Supply (of California) is the place.

They don't typically have a jet. The restriction that meters airflow is in the choke housing or the carburetor. By the 1970s they were usually using filtered air, usually from the main air filter, but in the 1950s, probably just an inverted "U" of tubing to keep crap from falling in. It is very important that it not be allowed to suck exhaust, only hot air. See if you can find pictures of another engine like yours on google images. It might solve a lot of mysteries.

This cannot be right. A choke stove has to have an air inlet. Air flows through it getting heated. This is clean air, not exhaust. Maybe post pictures?

I would check with another source or two before brazing or welding on that. @edinmass should know who to ask.

Just don't let it freeze. That happens easily when the battery is completely dead, and usually breaks the case. Nothing should come out unless you break the case.

If you have verified that the port on the choke draws air, the choke stove must be plugged up. There really isn't anything else.

Push it outside, get a really long piece of fuel hose, run the hose over to a gas can, and see if it will pick up fuel from that.

I would bet against that being a good idea. If you have the one that belongs on that engine, rebuild it.

What @Oldtech said. That case has to come out whole. Tap it back and forth. The .040? Probably the crack, and possible bending from whatever caused it. That case has definitely seen some trauma.

Good plan. Brake and Equipment of Minneapolis does a nice job of sleeving. There are quite a few others around too. If you have them apart, use Sil-Glyde. Be sure to also get it on the part where the piston and bore are dry. Rebuild kits used to come with a little red capsule of clear goo for this purpose, but hardly ever do anymore. Not really. Be absolutely sure the curved spots at the top of both shoes are tight against the anchor pin.

I really like those. There are almost none over here in North America. I believe there was a blue one with white stripes in the LeMay Family Collection in Tacoma, WA, USA. I'm not sure if they still have it.

If the diaphragm is removable from the metal parts, what is the problem? If it is not, then I guess that kit won't work. You might check with Then n Now for a kit. https://www.then-now-auto.com/

Model R

It is totally a coincidence, and if you look close there is little if anything in common. I had a green 51, not too far off from the 50(?) in the picture. The Nash architecture is a great car in it's own right, but had different priorities. After the merger, eventually Hudsons got Nash bodies that didn't look like the green car in the post above, but were more or less the same thing under the skin. They were a huge disappointment to the stock car racers who had been cleaning up with Hudson step-downs.

How good do you want it? It does actually make a car run sweeter when you really get it right. Exhaust valves grow more, but that part may already be compensated for in the stock settings. Some valves might grow more than others due to uneven cooling. Some might have wear in the tappets that fool your feeler gauge. Some people will tell you to just set them all .002 loose. It's probably OK. On the other hand if you want to just go THRRRRRRRRRR so nobody can hear one loose valve, here is what I would do. Get yourself all set up to adjust them efficiently. Make any marks on the front pulley you need (or whatever you do on that model) so you can check them really quickly when the time comes. Then at you leisure, set them all .0015 looser than spec cold. Once that is done, give it a good highway run. Idling won't do as the engine temperatures stabilize differently. Pull in, shut it off, take things apart really quick and CHECK all of the valves, write down the results. Then set them cold again using what you have learned, in other words if intake #3 is .001" loose hot, write that down so you can tighten it .001" later when it is cold. If you've done this, and you still have clack clack clack, there is wear in the tappets fooling your feeler gauge. In that case use a dial indicator with a foot on it instead of a feeler gauge (if you can get it in there and pry the tappet back and forth). These days I usually default to the dial indicator right off the bat if it will work. There is no reason at all you need to nitpick it this close for the engine's health. It sure does make engines run good though and sound good too. As long as no valves are too tight, the engine will be just fine.

You might mention where it is located.

Yes. Well, at least they are looking at you. In WA State, and I suspect most places in the US, bicycles are expected to use the same roads as cars (not sidewalks) and obey the same traffic laws. Bicycles must hand signal because they have no signal lights. Therefore, you have to understand hand signals to pass the test to get a driver's license. They still wave at you.

SIx volt tar top batteries were still around in the early 70s. I suspect yours is quite a bit older, but I don't know how to prove it. What is remarkable about it to me is I do not see any cracks in the hard rubber case. Is it really uncracked?! Tar tops were rebuildable. It might be interesting to build one in that case if it isn't broken.

Typically no, unless you get really far back. Then anything is possible. The ferrules on that Lincoln are a bit odd to see, but I guess I am not that surprised given the era. Most fuel lines on postwar cars are double flare, and quite a few prewar ones are too. I don't think it is about the pressure. That wouldn't matter. The reason is that steel will often split if you try to singe flare it. My 1936 Pontiac has "Threaded Sleeve" fittings throughout the fuel system (neither fish nor fowl), and If I remember correctly 1937 Buicks have double flare throughout the fuel system. Brake tubing (Bundyflex) is the most common traditional fuel line.

It looks nice, but what kind of wire is it? No matter what It is it will be fine for a little while. If it is ordinary copper it is going to break. That wire bends every time you step on the gas. A long time ago, when I was a dumb kid working in a gas station, I won an old truck in a drawing. One day, while driving to work, it started running terrible, and got worse and worse. The explosions were getting loud, but I kept it revved up at lights and floored when I was moving because it seemed obvious it wasn't going to get me to work. It did, but the explosions were probably heard in the next county. We pushed it into the shop, and the mufflers, glasspacks, were blown wide open along the weld. Those aren't sheetmeetal you know, they are heavier steel. They were unrolled and looked like a couple of gutted fish. Someone had made a replacement for that wire out of regular copper wire and it broke. I replaced it with regular wire again (it was probably Sunday or something). I put in 3 complete loops of wire in the bottom of the distributor and soldered the terminals on, so as the wire bent it would wind more like a spring and the angle at the ends wouldn't change much. It lasted, and when I got that same truck back around 2014, the wire was still in there and still working. You don't have the option of looping it in the Buick. Your advance weights are down there under the breaker plate. In the truck the advance mechanism was up high under the rotor so there was plenty of room without interfering with anything.

Another possibility if you can't get that wire is to try to modify a Ford one. There was one used on Ford distributors right until the end of points (1975?). Any early 70s Ford has one. Napa should have that in the warehouse if not in the store. It might take some creative bending and hammering of one of the terminals to get it in that slot and bolted down as the Ford wire has plain ring terminals. The ford wire is not insulated, and it doesn't need to be. It is made out of the right kind of wire. Just make sure it doesn't touch anything bare that is on the hot side of the points. It looks like nothing in that Buick distributor is even close, but pay attention to that.