Rod L

Crazy, Great question and it ignited a curiosity in me that led to a search online. I found several prospects including these two, I like the first as a possibility to play with. I used these terms for the google search: "screw on auto filter housing?" https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Earls-516ERL-Sandwich-Filter-Adapter-0-75-Inch-Center-Post-Size,144145.html?sku=425516ERL&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=CjwKCAjwkdL6BRAREiwA-kiczE4eUyroywXTuBfh-QOOgz5RtNeLEkd3cCqz8wqkqf-_FI_4SdHjKhoCEjQQAvD_BwE https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200675165_200675165?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Hydraulics > Hydraulic Accessories&utm_campaign=Buyers Products&utm_content=56980&gclid=CjwKCAjwkdL6BRAREiwA-kiczNXql9ROwRSMHc1ubge_RyX8tjDoYrOb-1j8wSVPff6KybvFc1b3YRoCbpoQAvD_BwE Rod

OK, I found the instructions for removing the canister. Now Mike, if you would be so kind as to tell me which of the Bobs Automobilia spin on filters you used, I'd appreciate it. There are several: 1927-28 Looks Like Round Original But Houses a DisposableElement. (Not Shown)OF-278......................$315.00 Inner Element Only.OFE-278 ................. $ 15.50 ea 1927-28 Like Above Filter, But UsesYOUR Original 3-bolt TopCasting. Spin-On Oil FilterInside.OF-278A.................$230.0 Thanks for your trouble. Rod

Thanks Mike, On a related issue (I'm real new to this car) How is the canister pictured above removed, is it screwed on? I tried googling it but nothing comes up on removing the canister from the top mounting! There are three bolts a couple of inches long on the top (hex heads). But loosening them did not cause any loosening of the canister.

Looking for suggestions for a gasket to replace a leaking one on my 28 Sport Roadster oil filter cover. it is leaking badly and cannot be tightened further. Rod

Ok, I have ordered this book, did I do good? bishko automotive literature 1927 1928 Buick Standard Six Shop Service Repair Manual Book Engine Electrical

Ok, say I drop the inspection cover? How do I determine which bearing is the suspect? Then if the shims are present do i just remove them until the thumping stops? Seems like there is probably a more technical way of doing this? Any suggestions on a good book that would cover this? Rod PS. I've done a lot of different repairs on a lot of different cars, but I'm not much into internals on an engine.

Thanks to all for the responses. I'm not sure I want to attempt pulling the pan and checking for shims? It sounds to me like an issue with the main bearings, so I'll take it to a local shop that has done some of this work. Rod

Does the 1928 Buick standard 6 use shims or inserts, I am particularly interesed in the mains as I think I'm hearing a thud-thud-thud dull knock. Rod

Drained the trans and added a 2 to 1 mix of Lucas 80-90 to Lucas stabilizer. I don't think the fluid was ever drained from the transmission, it came out closer to tar than oil (see pic below) if I hadn't pre-warmed the transmission it would have taken three weeks and a day just to drain. Now, I want to drain it again and the flush the whole thing. What are the procedures and fluids to use to flush it? Oh! It now shifts extremely easy, just a slight snick in each gear, but that's probably me not timing it quite right. Thanks Hugh for the tip on the Lucas mix.

27donb, Wow!! That was fast, thanks very much!!

I've ordered the lucas products Where is the fill plug. Is the silver plug indicated by the arrow the fill?

I bought the car in late May, so if it was after that it wasn't this car. Rod

LESS THAN 3 HRS TO GO, HURRY HURRY HURRY!

What is the capacity of the transmission in this 28 buick? I'm going to try Hugh's formula for fluid. Rod

In the final 24 hours! Time to bid!!! Rod

Not many of these still around, ready to drive and enjoy! Go ahead place a bid. Rod ON "Bring A Trailer" https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1938-mg-ta-3/ VIDEOS : warm start walk around: https://youtu.be/WVLJsbGII-c Best video yet for true color of car: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWWW4z-oGb8 Video of lights including turn signals. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQc0DYXnr1o&t=58s Cockpit driving view. https://youtu.be/b_tQGIfZnwY Drive by: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KktzOYE1uE

Apparently it was a bad coil! I changed to a known good coil, drove the car for about 30 minutes and all was well, no sputtering and it never died, 😁😁 engine temp via dash gauge was a steady 160 f. Thanks for all the input. Rod

Sorry for the delayed response. I see there are many hopefully good suggestions above. I'll try and sort out the grain from the chaff. The engine is definitely not overheating, if anything it barely gets up to operating temp before the incident occurs. In the coming days I'll have some time to try a few things, 1st is I have a new coil and will swap it to see if that is the problem. I'm guessing that this will be a process of elimination to get to the bottom of it. I suspect that the previous owner lost interest in chasing it down, ergo the sale. there's always a reason for these sales, but then that is how I've managed to accumulate a number of cars, no harm no foul! I'll keep you informed as to what solves the issue. Thanks for all the input Rod

Lots of good suggestions above, but I forgot to mention that the car has a working electric fuel pump. I'm new to this car and am not real conversant with it's fuel system especially the modified fuel delivery. I have no idea at this point if the vacuum canister serves any function. Their is an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and it is set at 1/2 psi. I will check to see if it is pumping gas to the canister or straight to the carb? Rod

Not that I noticed, but something for me to look for next time. I doubt that it is lean as there is considerable soot.

1928 Buick (6) Engine stalls and then dies. This has happened 3 times and always following about a 15 minute drive. At about the 12-15 minute mark it will sputter at which point I will pull the choke and it will continue running for a few more seconds then die. After sitting for about 15-20 minutes, it will start right up and is good for another 15 or so minutes. Sounds like maybe something to do with the float? I pretty new to Buicks of this age and not familiar with the Marvel carb at all. Another issue I’ve seen is it runs very rich. Rod

"28" Yes, it is the car you reference and the restoration was done (remarkably well) as noted in your post, though I can't speak to the sequence, I also don't know the dates of the restoration. It has been exceptionally maintained no matter when the work was done and baring my learning curve has no issues what-so-ever, just a magnificent car. Thanks for your comments. Rod PS Steering is just fine.

Kevin, Thanks for the response and the information. If you look at the photo above, tha stantions are already drilled with a 'screw" in the holes.I don't know if this is stock or something someone previously did? I have a set of Model A clamps on order so I will find out shortly if they work? If not, I guess I'll have to get another Model A, so they don't go to waste. 😟 Rod

Almost new to Buicks (had a 59 convert just out of the AF in 64) this is my 2nd and what a beauty she is!!

1st, anyone know of a source for the wind wing brackets for a 28 Buick Roadster? Failing that, would the WW brackets that are available for Model A Fords work? Rod