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  1. I took the car for a 15 mile ride in 90 degree temps and it ran perfect!! I'll go on a longer ride this weekend but I think you guys might have solved the problem......THANKS
  2. I pulled the exhaust manifold and the heat riser was about 75% open or allowing hot exhaust to flow around the intake manifold. I split the intake and exhaust and closed the flapper so it will not allow any hot exhaust to enter the intake. It was rusted so I had to use pipe wrench to move it into the correct position. I have it installed again but did not get a chance to test drive it yet.....hopefully that was the issue. The first picture is the position when I removed the manifold and the second picture is with it closing off the intake. Dan
  3. Good catch.....I went back out to the rusty old manifold and when I put the channel lock pliers on the counter weight it spun on the shaft and the flap inside the exhaust manifold stayed in the same open position. So that is why the counter weight was up and the flap was in the open position. I'll take off the exaust pipe so I can see inside of the exhaust manifold on my car to verify it is in the open position. I initially took the exhaust manifold off last winter to weld a crack shut. I guess I should have taken the extra time to repair the heat riser when it was off. I'll keep you post
  4. Here are a few pictures of the heat riser position. The one picture is the position of the riser on the car; and it is seized in that position. The other picture is of spare intake and exhaust manifold I have with the riser placed in the same position as the one on the car. It sure looks like it is in the open position but I have been wrong before. Dan
  5. I believe the pertronix does not need a ground strap since I believe it grounds through the small screw that holds the mounting plate to the breaker plate. But I can put the small ground strap back on.....I think it went from where the vacuum advance plate fastens to the breaker plate to the mounting plate. The coil is also new when I put in the pertronix. I will confirm the heat riser is open. Is it possible when I had the carburetor rebuilt it is set way to lean? I was told to run the car with the choke half on and see if that makes a difference?
  6. I did pull the exhaust manifold off to install new gaskets and the heat riser was stuck in the open position, but I will double check again. And I know the steel tube between the intake and exhaust was in very good condition when I installed everything together again. The goofy thing is the car runs absolutely beautiful for the first 10 minutes; good power and very smooth so I'm pretty sure the steel tube is intact. I may try an electric fuel pump near the gas tank to see if that will keep the fuel moving? But with the backfire out the tail pipe it still seems like an ignition issue
  7. Update: I ended up installing a pertronix electronic ignition kit since all the wires in the distributor were in very poor shape. But, after 10 miles the car still has a strong misfire and hesitates.....so I don't think the problem is with the ignition system. Is it possible that after the engine heats up it vapor locks?? If I let the car coast at idle for 5 seconds and then start accelerating it runs fine again for about 20 seconds or so until it starts acting up again. The fuel pump appears to have been replaced in the past 10 years but that does not mean the diaphragm is old and weak.
  8. I purchased the car from an estate sale. The elderly gentleman owned the car since 1953 and his family got the car after he died 8 years or so ago. I did a complete brake job, with all new master and wheel cylinders and lines, rebuilt fuel and water pump along with a very detailed examination of all the other mechanical parts. The car had a paint re-spray in the mid-80's but other than that it is very original down to the interior and headliner.....and the original bill of sale from 1949.
  9. I do have a new set of points and condenser I will replace this weekend. I do know the wires from the coil connections to the distributor are original (only 6,700 miles on the car) and may need to be replaced. The gas tank was drained and fresh fuel put in with a new fuel filter just before gas goes into the glass sediment bowl. THANK you for the guidance.....I will keep you posted.
  10. I have a 1949 Silver Streak with the flathead 6 engine. It sat for a few years so I had the carburetor rebuilt, new plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. I drove it 10 miles into town and it ran perfectly. Stopped for dinner and about a mile into the drive home, the engine started to hesitate and and miss causing some backfires out the tailpipe. I thought the car was starving for gas, but with it backfiring I know it was getting fuel and seemed like an electrical problem. The car is still the original 6 volt with points and condensor. I did not change the points, condensor or coi
  11. I'm replacing the spark plug wires on my straight 6 and lost track of what wires go where after I got side tracked on another project. I know the firing order is 153624, but I need to know what cylinder is number 1; I'm assuming the 1st cylinder closest to the radiator is number 1 and number 2 is the next going back to the firewall?? Thanks in advance Dan
  12. I'm in the process of replacing the water pump on my 1949 with a straight 6. The water pump came with a new plate that has a raised boss area around one of the bolt holes. I have a full gasket that goes between the pump and the plate and a smaller half gasket that goes between the block and the new pump. So to make sure I understand what the raised boss around the bolts hole is for, I'm assuming since the gasket between the water pump and the block only makes contact with half of the surface the raised boss will make up the thickness of the gasket since there is no gasket around the raised b
  13. I just got my manifold back after getting it welded. So far it took care of the crack and no leaks. I did try to enter that eBay number and I don't get any hits on it? Dan
  14. A few other projects got in the way; such as a leaking master cylinder and wheel cylinders. So, I'm replacing most of the braking parts over the next few weeks
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