Chcknugget

Not sure about a 1954 but on my 58 they were just normal fine-threaded bolts. I think there was a washer and a lock washer under each bolt. I ordered grade 8 replacements for the full torque converter when I had it out. Local hardware store might have them.

To follow up on this i swapped out one of the new bushings on each side for an old one. After doing this the shafts turned freely. The threads in the new bushings must have not meshed properly with eachother.

Hello, I just reconnected the rear end of my 58 Century to the torque ball. I lined the blind keys up as best as i could (emphasis on blind) and drew the prop shaft into the trans with 2 bolts and it slid in. My question is this: will the prop shaft physically slide into the torque ball if it is clocked incorrectly? I’m second guessing my work and am considering taking it apart again.

The stock screen has 3 little clips to hold it in place. These work great on the walmart screen.

Crazy... sink strainer from walmart is the perfect size... 4 3/8” diameter $2.97 each https://www.walmart.com/ip/Peerless-univeral-Stainless-Steel-4-3-8-in-mesh-strainer/17043473

Looking for a screen in decent condition! Mine has a few little tears. Outer diameter is 4 3/8”. Not sure if this can be repaired. Thanks, Colin

Hard to tell but this kinda looks like differential oil. Your pinion seal might be toast.

There is a zerk on the driveshaft. There is also a corresponding hole in the torque tube to grease the zerk. The hole in the torque tube has a flanged plug in it.

Splines look great, both u joints are nice and smooth. Will put some fresh grease in the rear splines. I cleaned up the tube to paint but oil kept seaping from the ungasketed rear mating flange. With everything clean I’m hoping the paint will stick!

Hello, The rear end of my Century is out so i took the opportunity to clean all the ATF oil out of the tube. I took the prop shaft out and there seems to be a ring of a flexible substance near the rear greasable spline. Looks like wax but feels like silicone. Anyone ever see this before? There doesnt seem to be any mention of anything like this in the shop manual. Whatever it is doesnt appear to do anything so I’m wondering why it’s there.

Hello, i replaced all my upper and lower control arm bushings in my 1958 Century. The manual says the shafts should turn freely by hand. My lowers do turn freely but the uppers are too tight to turn by hand. Well i installed the upper control arms anyways and they do move up and down but it takes a little effort. They do not drop under their own weight. Is it possible to install the shafts backwards? Should i consider replacing them? They appear to be in good shape. thanks, Colin

I will give you a call later today... Are you able to meet in Madison Heights around lunch times or would evenings work better?

Hello, i am interested in the steering column. Are the rear axle stabilizer bars in good shape? I live in romeo so im not too far away and could pick up. Thanks, Colin

Hello, I am looking for a left side exhaust manifold for a dual exhaust 58 buick… Let me know if you're looking to sell this- thanks, colin

Thanks for the help. I'm planning on replacing everything... Inline tube is only a few miles from my house after all! I'd prefer to spend the money and send out my master cylinder for a rebuild but sometimes it can be less aggravating to do it yourself. Not sure what I'll do yet. Luckily my floor is pretty rusted out so I can probably grip the nut through the bottom of the vehicle!

Hello!!! I am fixing up a 1958 Buick that was purchased by my grandfather in the 70s but has been sitting in a barn for 30 years... I have the engine tuned up and running well, so now I am tackling the brakes. I have all the drums off and I am wanting to replace all hardware, shoes, lines, hoses, and get the master cylinder rebuilt. I'm hoping to possibly cruise this summer! 2 questions: Do I have a Bendix master cylinder? Should I assume my vacuum booster needs to be repaired as well? Thanks, Colin