robertely

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About robertely

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  1. Thanks for the hints. I'll give them a try
  2. Hello everyone I have recently had a new propshaft made up and now require a bearing that sits next to the bevel gear. It is a tapered roller bearing, Timken number 321-312 and is unavailable since 1970. Details in link: https://cad.timken.com/item/all-product-types/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-imperi-2/321-312 Would anyone have a spare bearing? Alternatively can anyone recommend a similar size bearing that could be fit with spacers? Kind regards Robert
  3. Hello everyone I require a bearing for my Hupmobile Model 20 It is a tapered roller bearing, Timken number 321-312 and is unavailable since 1970. Details in link: https://cad.timken.com/item/all-product-types/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-imperi-2/321-312 Would anyone have a spare bearing? Alternatively can anyone recommend a similar size bearing that could be fit with spacers? Kind regards Robert
  4. Hello everyone Bit of a long shot this, but would anyone have a spare Model 20 clutch housing that they have sitting around on a shelf somewhere? Perhaps I could cross your palm with silver in order to give purchase to said item? Unfortunately mine has been previously repaired a few times and is now too weak to repair. Thought I'd try my luck before I send it off to get a new one made up. I'm not sure of any variations in the designs but mine is a fairly late 1913 model. Regards Robert
  5. Greetings Below is a photo of two new shafts and hubs as made by a friend and engineer in Holland. The axle is back on and under testing. I thought I'd mention that the new shafts appears to have cleared up my steering problem - I previously had a couple of 'moments' at 'high' speed with the worn axle. I had read on this forum that the earlier straight end axles when worn could affect the steering badly and I would say this is also true of the later model C tapered end axles. Best regards Robert
  6. Thanks for the advice. As a warning to others I thought I'd show my abysmal attempt at a spreader bar!
  7. I managed to remove the spring and separate the casings exactly as suggested. The shafts were easily disassembled and to my untrained eye the bearings look in very good condition. A couple of the bearings at the outer end of the casing have come loose but look in good condition. There is a crack on the gear at the end of the shaft and looks like this will also need to be remade. I have the shafts and wheel hubs ready to hand over to my engineer but I am unsure as to the exact material required, surface requirements and if there are any special instructions I should pass on to him, in particular, clearance for the tapered hub to axle. He is very experienced, but not with automotive work. Any suggestions here would be gratefully received. Robert
  8. Thanks again for the hints everyone. The rear axle was very easy to remove with the rods and top leaf mountings removed. I have attached a photo of the axle housing which does indeed have a crack around 1" long. I am currently getting a spring spreader made up so I will have to wait before opening the axle up. I do have a few more questions though: Is the wear on the end of the torque tube excessive? When it comes to removing the spring and bar, would I be best advised to fit the spring spreader, then release the two sliding tubes (drifting out the rivets), unwind the spring spreader and then remove the two bolts on the end of the leaf springs? Is the cracked housing easy enough for a competent welder to repair? Regards Robert
  9. Thank you kindly Sirs. I will investigate the chassis/engine number. Unfortunately I don't yet have the facilities or skills to machine the axle. The rear axle looks quite easy to remove. I would just like to check that the propshaft can be unbolted from the differential casing and axle withdrawn. Also is there any tension on the rear leaf spring or axle rod when I remove the bolt at each end of the leaf? Out of interest, could someone inform me what the contraption attached to the exhaust is?
  10. Greetings Hupmobile entusiasts. I have recently become the owner of a Hupmobile Model 20 and was wondering if you could offer some advice. I have a little play on the rear wheels/axle. I have attached some photos of the rear shaft and brakes and was wondering if you could confirm what type the axle is. The brake drums are 10" diameter and the shaft has a tapered end (model C?). The only number I could find was on the front of the right hand chassis rail and is 15362. My plan is to remove the half shafts and rear drum and take them to my engineer who should be able to reweld and machine them. Just wanted to check if this was the correct way to go about the repair? Would anyone have any measurements - should it be a push on fit or tighter? As well as normal wear you may be able to notice the crack next to the keyway on the drum. Is it possible to remove just the half shafts without dismantling the rear axle? If anyone could offer a dismantling procedure or any machining advice it would be greatly appreciated. I have taken it out for a few test drives and all is well except for the steering which seems to want to dart away when driving in a straight line at higher speeds. I have measured the tracking and the wheels toe in at the front by 20-30mm compared to the rear, so there's no toe out. I contacted the previous owner (Netherlands) who has told me that his grandfather always thought that the front axle was mounted the wrong way around. Any advice on what to check next would also be greatly appreciated. Finally, are there any Hupmobile contacts or clubs based in the UK? Thanks in advance Robert Ely