Moparite

Well if you watched any of the auto restoration/build shows that have been on for years it's not uncommon to travel to the other side of the country(or more) to buy a car. Who knows what the new owner has in mind or what he plans on doing with it. If he is loaded his limitations are limitless. As long as he keeps an old car on the road it's all good. In another 10-20 years i only can imagine what ugly turds will be on the roads. That's actually the case today!

Yea the prices have gone up, Seems since the chip shortage for some reason. That doesn't effect old cars. Either way as long as he keeps and old car on the road it's a good thing!

$1236.00 + $170 fee =$1406.00

I would think they would be programed about the same performance wise. There is a difference between the T1 and T2 motors. The MP unit is programed more for performance(more boost). I happened to find a list of part #'s, Here are the only ones listed for the TC's. 4425209 1989 MASERATI TC 16V M/T 5233258 1989 MASERATI TC TII A/T 5234124 1989 MASERATI TC TII A/T 5234126 1989 MASERATI TC TII A/T CAL

I used to be a member on offer up until they wanted my drivers license info/pic. Can't use the site without it.🤬 I told them to go f themselves and deleted my account. This may have something to do with why they are now advertising to get more people to join.

Town & country, 🤣 You would think they would get the description correct for posting. They charge a additional fee on top of what the final bid is. Sale Price Under $999.00 = $130.00 Sale Price from $1000 to $1999.00 = $170.00 Sale Price from $2000 to $2999.00 = $235.00 Sale Price from $3000 to $3999.00 = $300.00 Sale Price from $4000 to $4999.00 = $375.00 Sale Price from $5000 or higher = 9% of Final Bid Price

"Marty" I believe is is on a # of forums. He has nos stuff to if it's the same person I'm thinking of. Few and far between posts. Are the Lebaron pcm's the same(correct engine of course)? Never looked into this but if they are not hold on to it. I have a Mopar performance pcm for my 2.2 Daytona witch took me a while to find.

(If you are not replacing the timing belt)It helps to zip tie the belt to the cam gear and pull up on both with a bungee cord/ratchet strap to keep things where they need to be. A cherry picker works well to hold the bungee/strap. Then you don't have to "time it" since the belt/gears are in the same place when removed. 👍

Vice grips can be used if the thief wants it bad enough. Keeping it from not starting/running in the first place is better.

Better yet put a switch on the asd relay, It will kill all power to the pump ignition and injectors. An old school cheat is to tap into the neutral safety switch, No crank=no start.

Gas springs are shot and need to be replaced.

He should have looked at better condition ones that didn't sell for half what he is asking. 🤣

Did you clear all the codes after you did this? If so what comes back? You don't need to worry about 12 and 55, 24 is the main one you want to figure out. 24* Throttle position sensor over 4.96V This means the ecu is receiving to high a voltage from it. Usually a tps will work in a range below the reference voltage of 5 volts. Say 4.50(don't have the service manual to look up the actual voltage) but anything above that will throw a code.

That link is not for checking codes but this one is... https://www.allpar.com/threads/the-1980s-1990s-chrysler-computer-codes.229009/#post-1085223107

I wondered if the TC's actually came out before the Lebarons what the result would have been?

I stumbled across this by accident and thought others may be interested. There are a few of them for sale if you look. https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/pewter-chrysler-tc-maserati-placque-536410142 https://www.ebay.com/itm/225211014790?hash=item346f9f5e86%3Ag%3AcHUAAOSw6sRgr-F-&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5335981329&customid=&toolid=10049

This is saying "Hay police, Pull me over"!

A clearly visible theft deterrent would make a thief think twice. The "Club" style all you need to do is cut the steering wheel to get it off. A bright flashing led might work better somewhere it's highly visible(More work/time to steel it). You can also install alarms with "radar" so if anyone stands to close to it the alarm will "chirp" as a warning. If they continue standing there the alarm will go off. I suspect you are worried about vandalism more so than theft. Don't think TC's are on the top of a thief's to steal list. You can disable the ignition by simply installing a switch to kill power to the ignition switch. This would be easier than tapping into the wires for the rollover switch(if they even have one). The neutral safety switch wiring is also a good spot to tap into.

Depends on the type, finish, and size. Post some pics.

I have never tried "molding" anything before but someone out there should be able to come up with a low buck way of doing it. Seems like polycarbonate would be the best way of making it(heat forming). Been thinking of a way to upgrade the headlights and projectors are the way to go but need clear lens to do it. Found this video on youtube, Very interesting and always wondered how it was done. Could be used to make clear or reproduction lenses, Would need to figure out a way to make the back side smooth for clear ones. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WME8R2-Ot8E

The OP "Vango" Last visited January 24(assuming this is 2020). Unless he comes back i doubt anyone will get an answer.

And that's good thing, Never could understand why Chrysler even came out with panther pink.

And it was the lowest produced color! The high impact colors had to be ordered so what does that tell you. Definitely a chick car.

Let people know here when and add a link to the auction.🙂

Locate a electric motor rebuilder(local or otherwise) They can get just about anything you need.