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Moparite

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  1. Well if you watched any of the auto restoration/build shows that have been on for years it's not uncommon to travel to the other side of the country(or more) to buy a car. Who knows what the new owner has in mind or what he plans on doing with it. If he is loaded his limitations are limitless. As long as he keeps an old car on the road it's all good. In another 10-20 years i only can imagine what ugly turds will be on the roads. That's actually the case today!
  2. Yea the prices have gone up, Seems since the chip shortage for some reason. That doesn't effect old cars. Either way as long as he keeps and old car on the road it's a good thing!
  3. I would think they would be programed about the same performance wise. There is a difference between the T1 and T2 motors. The MP unit is programed more for performance(more boost). I happened to find a list of part #'s, Here are the only ones listed for the TC's. 4425209 1989 MASERATI TC 16V M/T 5233258 1989 MASERATI TC TII A/T 5234124 1989 MASERATI TC TII A/T 5234126 1989 MASERATI TC TII A/T CAL
  4. I used to be a member on offer up until they wanted my drivers license info/pic. Can't use the site without it.🤬 I told them to go f themselves and deleted my account. This may have something to do with why they are now advertising to get more people to join.
  5. Town & country, 🤣 You would think they would get the description correct for posting. They charge a additional fee on top of what the final bid is. Sale Price Under $999.00 = $130.00 Sale Price from $1000 to $1999.00 = $170.00 Sale Price from $2000 to $2999.00 = $235.00 Sale Price from $3000 to $3999.00 = $300.00 Sale Price from $4000 to $4999.00 = $375.00 Sale Price from $5000 or higher = 9% of Final Bid Price
  6. "Marty" I believe is is on a # of forums. He has nos stuff to if it's the same person I'm thinking of. Few and far between posts. Are the Lebaron pcm's the same(correct engine of course)? Never looked into this but if they are not hold on to it. I have a Mopar performance pcm for my 2.2 Daytona witch took me a while to find.
  7. (If you are not replacing the timing belt)It helps to zip tie the belt to the cam gear and pull up on both with a bungee cord/ratchet strap to keep things where they need to be. A cherry picker works well to hold the bungee/strap. Then you don't have to "time it" since the belt/gears are in the same place when removed. 👍
  8. Vice grips can be used if the thief wants it bad enough. Keeping it from not starting/running in the first place is better.
  9. Better yet put a switch on the asd relay, It will kill all power to the pump ignition and injectors. An old school cheat is to tap into the neutral safety switch, No crank=no start.
  10. Gas springs are shot and need to be replaced.
  11. He should have looked at better condition ones that didn't sell for half what he is asking. 🤣
  12. Did you clear all the codes after you did this? If so what comes back? You don't need to worry about 12 and 55, 24 is the main one you want to figure out. 24* Throttle position sensor over 4.96V This means the ecu is receiving to high a voltage from it. Usually a tps will work in a range below the reference voltage of 5 volts. Say 4.50(don't have the service manual to look up the actual voltage) but anything above that will throw a code.
  13. That link is not for checking codes but this one is... https://www.allpar.com/threads/the-1980s-1990s-chrysler-computer-codes.229009/#post-1085223107
  14. I wondered if the TC's actually came out before the Lebarons what the result would have been?
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