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  1. I found this info on steering gear boxes. Looks like they are all the same, might be mistaken.

     

    The Saginaw gearbox is a rotary-valve type unit using recirculating ball bearings. They are referred to as recirculated ball-type because they use the same ball bearings on both the worm gear and the sector gear to reduce friction within the housing. You will often see this gearbox referred to as an "800" or "605" unit. The only major difference between these two units is how the pitman shaft is held into the unit. An 800 unit has a four-bolt cover on the top of the unit (the end of the shaft opposite the pitman arm spline). The 605 units use a single snap ring that holds a round cover into the top of the housing. GM also used two gearboxes, depending on the weight and size of the model. Station wagons, full-size cars and large front-wheel-drive cars used a heavy-duty gearbox usually identified by GM part number 5687962. These units had a 3.5-inch piston diameter, and the pitman shaft will turn anywhere from 3.5 to four turns between fully locked left and fully locked right. These units were rated at a 17.5:1 steering ratio. Mid-size and smaller models used a steering box tagged 5691676, and these units used a 3-inch piston. The travel on the smaller-piston unit was three to 3.5 turns lock to lock. The mid-size gearboxes were rated at a 14.4:1 steering ratio. Both the 3.5-inch and the 3-inch-bore gearboxes have a .813-inch input shaft diameter, and most will have 31 splines on the input shaft. You can substitute between both of these units. Aside from the mounting bolt pattern (most are 4-bolt mount but there are two different three-bolt mounts, as well), these units are all interchangeable. The more responsive 14.4:1 ratio gearboxes replaced the earlier 17.5:1 ratio boxes in most models by 1973. This is a good thing to remember when you begin your search for a replacement.

     

    You can locate one of the basic Saginaw "800" series power steering boxes in one of these vehicles:

    1964-'76 AMC
    1961-'76 Cadillac, including
    1963-'76 Eldorado
    1964-'76 Buick and Pontiac full-size cars and Riviera
    1973-'76 Regal
    1975-'76 Skyhawk, Seville, Monza and Starfire
    1965-'76 Chevrolet full-size cars
    1967-'76 Camaro and 1968-'76 Nova
    1964-'76 Chevelle, Cutlass, GTO, Grand Prix, Lemans, Ventura and Tempest
    1971-'76 Vega and 1975 Pontiac Astre
    1960-'76 Oldsmobile full-size cars including 1966-'76 Tornado
    1971-'76 Jeep Cherokee, Wagoneer, Gladiator and J-series pickups
    1972-'75 International Scout and Traveler

    Many enthusiasts have also found that an easy way to upgrade the handling on your car is to convert to a Saginaw quick-ratio power-steering box. These were original equipment on some mid-size models, and they can be transplanted into most other GM vehicles, if you can locate one from your local pick-a-part. These gearboxes will improve the steering and handling for your car with a more responsive lower gear ratio and also reduce the steering wheel travel to 2.25 to three turns.

    The 1969-'76 Camaros as well as 1964-'76 Chevelles, Malibus and Monte Carlos also used an optional quick ratio 12.7:1 unit, which will interchange with the higher ratio gearboxes. These are very popular units because they are an easy bolt-in performance conversion. The 1982-'96 S-10 pickups used a 14.0:1 ratio "605" series gearbox, which will interchange into earlier vehicles with some modification. Another option is to use late-model G or F Body units. They were original equipment on 1983-'88 Monte Carlo, 1983-'84 Hurst Olds, 1985-'87 Olds 442, and 1984-'87 Buick Grand National or T-Type. They are also 12.7:1 units and a little more difficult to find, but can be identified by a "YA" marking on the end cap (opposite where the steering column attaches) or by searching for cars with the F41 or Z65 suspension package. All of the Monte Carlo SS cars had these options. These units will reduce steering wheel revolutions from lock to lock down to 2.25 to 2.75 turns.

    An important thing to remember when interchanging Saginaw gearboxes is to use your original pitman arm and idler arm if possible, to maintain the proper steering geometry. Different body styles have different length idler and pitman arms; for example, the F body arms are longer than those in an A or G body and could cause alignment and front-end clearance problems if used in different body styles. When interchanging between earlier and later GM gearboxes, you will notice the power steering hose fittings are not the same. Later fittings are metric and incorporate an O-ring, whereas all Sixties and most early Seventies units used the standard inverted-flare fittings. Auto parts stores sell standard thread to metric thread adapters in several different sizes that allow you to use your original hoses with the later-design metric gearboxes. The rag joint or steering gear coupler may also have to be changed. These can be obtained with the gearbox when being pulled from the donor car, or new ones are still available from the GM dealerships. The coupler off a 1977-and-up Chevy pickup (GM part number 7826542) works just fine to adapt the early-style steering shaft to the later model gearbox. Rag joints are also available from Lares Corporation, which can assist you with interchangeability questions and the purchase of freshly remanufactured power steering components as well.

    Lares Corporation 1-800-334-5749

    Finding a replacement gearbox for your General Motors car can be very easy because of the abundance of original units available that will readily interchange. Completing an upgrade to a quick ratio steering gearbox can also give your ride some additional handling and make a classic drive like a newer model.

    Sources

    AGR Performance
    817-626-9006
    www.agrperformance.com

    Classic Industries
    800-854-1280
    www.classicindustries.com

    Classic Performance Products
    714-522-2000
    www.classicperform.com

    Firm Feel Suspension
    800-347-6426
    www.firmfeel.com

    Flaming River
    800-648-8022
    www.flamingriver.com

    K.A.R. Mustang
    800-341-5949
    www.karmustang.com

    Original Parts Group
    800-243-8355
    www.opgi.com

    Power Steering Services Inc.
    417-864-6676
    www.powersteering.com

    Superior Mustang Parts
    888-697-8264
    www.superiormustangparts.com

    12.7:1 quick ratio installed on the “SS” Monte Carlo, Trans Am, and Firebirds of the ’80′s

    GM/Saginaw quick-ratio steering box donor car cheat sheet

    Late Model 12.7:1 quick-ratio gearbox
    ID markings YA, WS and HX
    Line Thread Size: M18x1.5 and M16x1.5
    Number of Mounting Holes: 3, (missing leg H-pattern)
    Input Shaft Diameter: ¾-inch
    Output Shaft Diameter: 1 ¼-inch
    Number of Turns Lock to Lock: 2 ½ - 3

    1984-'88 Monte Carlo/Malibu with Z65 suspension
    1983-'88 Malibu, El Camino
    1982-'92 Camaro except FE1 soft ride suspension
    1984-'87 Regal with FE2 or FE3 sport suspension
    1983-'84 Hurst/Olds
    1985-'87 Cutlass with 5.0 (VIN code 9)
    1982-'85 Trans Am
    1986-'92 Firebird except FE1 suspension
    1986-'87 Grand Prix with FE2 touring or F41 heavy duty suspension

     

    Pre-'76 12.7:1 quick-ratio gearbox
    Line Thread Size: 11/16 x 18 and 5/8 x 18
    Number of Mounting Holes: 4, (H-pattern)
    Input Shaft Diameter: 13/16-inch
    Output Shaft Diameter: 1 ¼-inch
    Number of Turns Lock to Lock: 2 ½ - 3

    1967-'76 Camaro, Firebird
    1970-'76 Monte Carlo/Malibu
    1964-'76 Chevelle

     

    1977-'79 12.7:1 quick-ratio gearbox
    Line Thread Size: 11/16 x 18 and 5/8 x 18, Number of Mounting Holes: 3, (missing leg H-pattern), Input Shaft Diameter: ¾-inch, Output Shaft Diameter: 1 ¼-inch
    Number of Turns Lock to Lock: 2 ½- 3

    1977-'79 Camaro, Firebird-1977-'79 Monte Carlo, Malibu-1977-'79 Chevelle

    • Like 2
  2. On 4/3/2017 at 7:48 PM, Rivdrivn said:

    Here it is, Ed...

     

    BTW, I never had any trouble with my hide-away wipers in my Riviera or my Corvette. Of course I don't use them in snow and ice

    IMG_0594.JPG

    IMG_0599.JPG

    Do you have any additional info or pictures on that car ? Nicely done, except for that shifter. 

  3. As stated, it would be chancy just replacing the ring with another used ring gear.

    Alternatively you could replace them as a set, used.

    The posi is the gem. If you had an open diff with the gears you like then (I think, there was a case of different carriers with more race gear sets in chevs, maybe not in Buicks) you could replace the carrier (the open) with your posi. ad use those gears.

    Setup is not that difficult.

    But just use the gears you have now. Should be fine

    Hope this helps

  4. 3 hours ago, Seafoam65 said:

     

    Obviously those bolts weren't torqued properly at the factory.

     

    Not necessarily so. I have always used thread locker on these bolts to prevent them from backing out, as you have experienced. 

     

    From what i can see in your pics, it appears to be only the outer parts of a few teeth  on the ring that are damaged. For the purpose of daily driving and cruizing the gear would be fine. If it were disassembled it, i would grind off the rough outer edges. 

  5. So i am wondering if the front sheetmetal fenders hood and bumper fit onto the 67-69 cars ?

    I can see it fitting on the 68/9 but unsure of the 66-67.

    Have not had a chance to explore the cars and check myself. Sometimes i have seen where mfgs have used the same chassis and changed the rad support, making sheetmetal swapping more difficult. But as the chassis remained through these years i think it should be possible. The hidden wipers on the 68-70 might limit the 70 swap to 68-9. 

    Anybody know ?

     Thanks in advance

     

  6. Saw this car on CL. I like the body and the silver interior. But at that price i would want it to be correct and complete. The interior seat covers look to be redone in a less than professional maner to me. The mismatching interior panels could be of concern at that price. It has a 64 steering wheel and the wrong air cleaner as well. Missing AC compressor, what will that cost to replace ? and charge and check the hoses for integrity ?   Seems to me that the door handles are needing adjustment as they do not sit level. The rear bumper is twisted on the drivers side and the hood point looks to be bent down. Lastly from the pics the undercarriage seems to have been done cheaply.  

    Just me or does anyone else see this ?

    • Like 1
  7. "The Rivieras that are done, in good driving condition, should all be valued over 20K, but people keep settling for cheap money so they can get quick sales. "

     

         That is because there are more cars for sale than there are buyers willing to pay those prices.

    Personally, I think these cars are Priceless !   BUT, value is determined by what a reasonable person is willing to pay for an item.   Not what the seller thinks it is worth, or even what the seller has paid into it.

     

    If I see a car listed at 28K, in my mind I would feel comfortable in offering 10%, maybe 15% less. But not 20 or 25% less. I see this as being seen as insulting, by the seller. And that is not a good footing to start negotiations on.   So if the price is too high I don't even consider it, despite caveats like "OBO" or "Negotiable".

     

    For buyers, listings are mucking up the market with an "I Don't Want To Sell It Price". When everyone raises their prices to those "I Don't Want To Sell It Prices" the market stagnates till a happy medium is found. Till then, Nothing sells.

    And, how many people do you know with 28K, 36 or 100 in their pocket ready to spend on a toy ? Seems like a nice dream, if you can get it.

     

    There are far more opinions on pricing than there are ready, willing and able buyers willing to fork over their cash.

    Buy, hey, all sellers think their car is worth more than it is and all buyers think is worth less. Go figure.

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