automaschinewerks
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Posts posted by automaschinewerks
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good morning, i have a question for my '28 dictator. i am getting ready for assembly to finish the body on the dictator. what goes between the body, splash aprons and the frame. there is a layer of lacing stuck to the bottom of the body. is there
another layer between the splash apron and the frame? also what are the dimensions of the running boards and what pattern running board trim should i order from restoration supply? or are there any other suppliers of running board trim i can check?
thanks - terry
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20 hours ago, Oldtech said:
I've done a lot of valves. Got 90%. The one I missed was 5.
that's because the answer is wrong. if the springs have close coils at one end, then the close coils go to the stationary end. ie; the spring seat end, not the valve keeper/retainer end. not used often in car engines, but alot of gas and diesel older tractor engines valve springs have close coils meant to be damper coils on one end. also ive seen coil springs in cars that have a couple close coils, again on the end mounted to frame or bracket on the frame.
terry
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https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/peterborough/1928-durant/1679235776
after running through what ive spent on the dictator since i bought it, i'm starting to see the point where many people say it's cheaper to buy a car that's finished and ready to drive.
but this??!!
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https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/peterborough/1928-durant/1679235776
i think there's a restoration hobby costs thread i should put this in(?)
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1/16"=.062" or 62 thousandths
13/16"=.812"
5/16"=.312"
11/16"=.687"
is your 2 11/16 puller loose? as in it is actually 2 3/4 thread size?
i had to get a couple pullers to fit my studebaker because the measurement in the ad was on the inside of the threads on puller, which is incorrect.
terry
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12 minutes ago, Xander Wildeisen said:
Very true on the not finishing a project. Every car has a breaking point where there is no return on investment. And what work you do while you have it. Can save the next owner some money and time. Just sold three projects, would have liked to dive into them a little more. Just made more sense to cut them loose. I look at car’s everyday. No shortage of stuff out there.
this doesnt work for everybody, but i get an excellent return on investment on my old cars. when im driving the erskine and older fellows come over and want to talk about it i forget all about the money and time i spent. im in my own little word when im working on the cars, and driving them. like others said about golfing, fishing, or whatever, all that matters is doing what your hobby is. as far as breaking point, its great incentive to finish the car when all i can think about is what itll be like driving it around next summer (hopefully).
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I have got it through my head when i go to look at a car, which are all projects, that im underwater before i get it home. But im doing them to drive. interior sides, headliner, carpets done and top vinyl installed $5000 (i kept the seat cushions themselves in the original upholstery). rad shell chromed $1500. oh yeah, bought a parts car in minnesota that dad trucked home for $2500 usd. I bought the car for $7500 to begin with. every separate task i plan for a saturday morning takes the whole morning. i can see a restoration bill at a shop must have to be over $100000. But im having fun.
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hi Scott, on my erskine (continental 9f engine) the wrist pins were 23/32" as well, which caught me off guard. i was hoping to use ford 3/4" pins .005" o/s to hone the wear from my pin holes in the pistons. i bought 19mm wrist pins from an atv or motorcycle engine and bored my pistons to suit them. i would use your old pins and have the pistons bored to fit them if egge cant do it that way. i have pictures in my topic erskine engine rebuild of some of the procedures.
- terry
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i think there someone that had an ad for throttle swivels like this in the parts for sale section.
- terry
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it's possible to put in one sleeve - only the head, oil pan, and that cyl's piston needs removed. you're right though about how close others cyls are to rusting through. i do it sometimes on tractors with the engine still in the tractor - fords especially have pinholes that come through from the coolant side.
rings rotate around all the time in the groove, that's part of the crosshatch pattern in the cyl.
terry
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thats glacier bearing company. they are old manufacturer, i dont think theyre around anymore. i think they were uk based.
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In my engine shop, i have this issue sometimes. You should have an engine machine shop resize the con. rod big ends on a rod honing machine, stick to the tight side of the specification. Carefully grind off the tangs from the bearings, make sure its flush, i finish with a file to make sure i got all of the tang. The bearing is held in the rod by the sizing and roundness of the hole, also the hone puts a nice texture on the inside of the rod, helping the grip on the od of the bearing. the sizing gives the bearing a slight press fit in the big end of the con.rod. the tang has nothing to do with holding the bearing from spinning, it is only there to locate the bearing. Of course now you have to be carefull on assembly and make sure the bearing is centered in the rod bore properly, but its not hard to do.
- terry
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Thanks Rex, i figured i would get a quick answer. i dont have a whole set of three of the flat levers, i will have to use one of the 31 type, but i want to get the column back together and now i know which 2 levers and which 1 lever i will be using.
terry
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is this what my steering column levers look like for my 29 commander? i seen this ad on facebook, it says 28 commander.
i have a few spare levers of this shape and the more squared flag shape like is on my 28 dictator. now im not sure which ones i should be using on the 29 commander.
thanks - terry
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my parts car arrived last week, not much hassle at all, and will be well used to replace missing parts for my 28 and 29
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Since last fall, i finally got my parts car home. It should give me everything to finish the dictator, and a few parts i've already gotten off for my commander.
Should be money well spent, with lots left over. i still have lots of work left, but i have everything now with this parts car to complete the dictator.
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23 minutes ago, Dandy Dave said:
A few more photos. Armature commentator segment cutter. Anyone ever seen another like it?
yup i have one of those too, from an old fellow cleaning out his shed. its unreal how handy it is for the mica undercutting. i hated going over every groove with a hacksaw blade. this tool is way easier on my fingers and patience.
terry
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yes - jeweller - i didnt think of that, thanks Gary
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good morning, i am getting ready to put my rad shell and rad back together. i need to attach the emblem to the shell, the attaching cup is missing, so i was going to use my gasket maker to glue the emblem on (barring anyone's better suggestion). i was going to solder a piece of wire to the back of the emblem to hang in the hole in the shell, so the emblem cant fall off on the road if the gasket maker comes loose.
i'm looking for anyone elses suggestions on the soldering on these emblems, or better ideas.
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dont mind me i just wanted to try this but it doesnt work worth crap
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in my opinion, cotter pinned and lock-wired nuts and bolts were used before liquid thread locker products were invented. i normally use red loctite, and look up torque specs on a torque chart listed by bolt sizes and fine/coarse threads. i usually use the spec for grade 5 bolts is plenty, i dont figure early engines had as hardened bolts as grade 8 hardware. i also like the loctite method so i dont have to line up cotter slots, and chance overtightening or undertightening to line up the holes and slots.
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always always always, my cars i have bought all have sat for years, i remove and clean the oil pan before i crank and engine over even just to try it. even if i have drained and refilled with clean oil. the oil pan will always have sludge in the bottom of it, and i dont want any of it or the old oil starting to draw up into the oil pump/screen or oil galleries.
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another layer between the splash apron and the frame? also what are the dimensions of the running boards and what pattern running board trim should i order from restoration supply? or are there any other suppliers of running board trim i can check?
Should be money well spent, with lots left over. i still have lots of work left, but i have everything now with this parts car to complete the dictator.
dont mind me i just wanted to try this but it doesnt work worth crap
Want to buy 346 engine block.
in Cadillac & LaSalle
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how did you ever make out with your block with the bad seat?
terry