Turbinator

TexRiv, I read all three pages of your installation in the Monaco station wagon. I took some notes regarding method approach to making a repair. Your sketch was well done and certainly a method I can use. The engine bay, new paint looks great. I’m happy to learn of your “chilling” success! My Riv is cooking me very well. The all new AC components and STV update switch I believe made the difference. Getting the original evaporator box reinstalled under the dash with new barrier hoses was r e a l hard. At the very end I had a blockage which was too much oil in the AC muffler. With all the evacuating I did I neglected to evacuate the AC muffler. My thinking about a muffler was out of context with an AC application. I was totally stumped why my R12 would not charge. Bottom line/ Tom Telesco came in from Norwalk CT to finish the install. A couple of add on items like a vacuum tank and severe duty clutch fan will hopefully improve performance in bumper to bumper traffic and when I accelerate enough to merit the extra expense. The work I can do myself. Thank you for your support over the years. Bob Burnopp

Tim, I was just remembering my poor manners and I did not ask to see your Riviera. I apologize for my self centered behavior and will certainly extend an apology. Bob

Tim, after all it is your “chariot” drive it looking any way you like. Your subject matter was interesting. I enjoyed reading all the comments. It was a pleasure to meet you at ROA meet in Gettysburg. Turbinator

Zimm, R&M on the shore told me they handle what you need. I’ve never dealt with them, but that is what they told me. Secondly, using the recovery equipment requires genuine know how. You could hurt yourself big time if you are not careful.

Not a problem if you are willing to look. A friend just got 66 lbs tested pure R12 for $500.00. No joke I witnessed the transaction. Turbinator PS as much aggravation I’ve had with my AC I should buy stock in the companies that make the stuff.

Sir, you are fortunate to know these facts. I applaud your good sense. I would whole heartedly encourage you to do your due diligence when hiring a shop or person to make sure they know what they are doing. I suspect some shops in hotter areas of the country have experience with this type of work. Had I known what I know now I would have given an after market AC serious consideration. I’m not a purist in my restoration efforts. For instance I run radial tires, zBilstein shocks, custom exhaust, but everything else is a replacement for what came with the car. Thank you Bob

Jim, the condenser is new. Hopefully it is working correctly. i do have a fan for the functional testing as outlined in Service Manual. I do the test you have described. i have read about charging and watching the sight glass. Tom Telesco was heading up this rodeo so I watched and kept quiet. I deferred to Tom’s experience and “ art” part of AC mechanics. After all it was me that talked Tom into the long drive to Lutherville to help. We did feed Tom pretty good and his room and bath were not bad. I am considering the severe duty fan clutch in hopes of drawing more air over the evaporator. Traffic jams in Baltimore/DC corridor I believe rank some place as the worst for driving. The middle vent adjustment was a piece of cake to get air flowing. I have a lead on some very inexpensive 14 Oz cans of R12. Think I’ll load up. Turbinator

Sir, in the event you do ground your metal tail light bulb sockets. Fan out the copper wire strands and solder to the metal bulb socket. Ground that wire to the car body. works real good. As TelRiv mentioned one the filaments in the bulb could be burned out. Turbinator

Old School ( old men like me) low riders know what you have. They may not have the skills to bring it together, but they probably have the $$$$ for restoration shop to put it on the road. My guess is the older guys are your best suspects to turn into prospects. Good Luck Turbinator

The correct amount of Freon charge is determined by what is shown in the 1963 Buick Service Manual sec 11 AC. The ambient temp is the bench mark for beginning of what the high and low side should read. Some charge with the gas until the bubbles go away in the sight glass, then add about 6 Oz more. Seems to me 63 Riviera AC is an art as well as a science. Admittedly, I have been consulting a lady that practices Voo Doo in hopes of getting some luck. She sent an amulet in the mail I put the amulet around the compressor. Turbinator

Yes, I still read the mobile AC manuals I have. Science class. The more you know how the thing works the better chance you have of beginning your diagnostics. I could not get R12 to go into the system. The short- Tom Telesco checked each connection under the hood starting at the condenser to see if he had pressure. At the connection near the AC muffler no pressure. Come to find the blockage was too much oil from previous efforts in the AC muffler! Tom drained the oil out of the muffler. The AC took a charge. I have cold air, but not quite cold enough. 42 F is the coldest I’ve had. Tom T and I have a plan over the next few weeks to check for leaks. Also the system may be overcharged. We will see. Turbinator

Understood. turbinator

Tom, how about the Red Riviera? The price would be more than your guy has outlined. Turbinator

Ed, Would not a home owners rider protect a project vehicle not on the street. Just a thought regarding money saving. Turbinator

Sir, you have a challenge. The unschooled buyer would not know much about your offer. The schooled buyer would be looking for a price value proposition. Advertising source is going to be important so you can reach a targeted audience. Just my opinion. Turbinator

Mr KongaMan, truth told, I cannot remember. The only number I can remember is 100 on the low and high side when the engine and AC were turned off.

Jim, the air temp of 42 F was in the driveway with engine at about 2000 RPM’s. I’m leaving the STV by pass switch as a last resort. Tom Telesco says he might have too much Freon in the system and I agree. I’ll check for leaks soon and advise as we go forward. ‘With luck I’ll have this AC running right around Halloween time. 🙂

Mr KongaMan, the STV sensor is mounted on the same suction pipe as the thermal expansion sensor tube. Turbinator

Tom, thank you for the reminder. i wrote brake “ fluid”, but I meant the brake cleaner in an aerosol can. Nevertheless, thank you Turbinator

Gents, after 3 years of fairly good documentation and real progress on this AC case the case may truly be helpful to others. im going to use brake cleaner to take off any Freon residue around the fittings under the hood. What is under the dash will be tested as the last of the last tests. If the evaporator box has to be taken down it will be done by someone else. in the meantime I’ll keep everyone apprised of noteworthy events on this case. thanks to all Turbinator

Jim, I found a round head fine screw that runs between a spring inside the metal box that comprises the switch then leads to the sensor on the outside of the suction tube from the evaporator box. If I knew my science I could probably determine which way the screw should turn to make the air colder. i can take some pics tomorrow and send them along. Turbinator

Jim, I’m all for continuing to work on the AC and get as much output as possible. I’ll do the center vent first. Since I have a broken STV by pass sensor from previous efforts I’ll check out how it might be adjusted and report my findings. thank you Turbinator

I did not charge the AC. Tom Telesco knew what the readings on the high and low side meant. Tom went by weight usage on a digital scale where he placed the R12 tank. Tom watched the bubbles. We are perplexed why we can’t reach 38 F. Turninator Jim, if there is an adjustment on that STV update switch I cannot find the switch. Looks like a copper spring inside the little door. im catching on to temp fluctuations from the AC in different driving conditions. When I’m cruising along at a good speed on the interstate I’m cool on ice. Sitting in bumper to bumper traffic not so cool, but better than nothing. No air coming from the center vent. Tom looked through the vent and saw daylight. Tom said a gasket has moved and air is leaking. I thought #2 vacuum switch needed adjustment and that’s what we did with no luck. Tom put dye in the system in hopes of finding leaks, if there are any. My problem is tellingvthe difference from residual R12 and leaking R12. I’ll clean the fittings with brake fluid and then look again with the special light and yellow sunglasses.

Finally got it finished and have 42degree cold air. Tom Telesco came to Maryland and did trouble shooting real fast and found a blockage. The blockage was too much oil in the AC muffler. I’d never found that blockage. Turbinator

The muffler can be by passed. Cleaning the muffler was blowing oil out. No problem. Dont know where you are located. ONLY place you can depend on to fix your AC right is a reputable restoration shop or AC specialty shop with vintage AC experience. I had no luck with supposedly vintage car repair shops in Central Maryland. I found a specialty shop ion the Eastern Shore of Maryland and Ball Louisiana that said they could do soup to nuts restoration. My problems stemmed from my inexperience and mechanical aptitude. Installing the evaporator box under the dash was next to impossible. Diagnosing blockage in the AC system took special trouble shooting skills. Understanding what is happening with the AC by looking at the low side and high side gauges takes experience. The evaporator looks -like mine, but you need the thermal expansion valve to go with the evaporator. Personally, I threw away good money on having STV’s rebuilt -3 times. I ultimately went with the STV eliminator. Works fine. it was 3 years for me and about half or more than a completely new AC installed cost. I’m in for $3500-$4000. The shop in Ball LA quoted $7k with a $5k deposit for a soup to nuts installation. My AC is down to 42 degrees F. It is the best it has ever worked. Turbinator