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One of the original investors in Henry Ford was John S Gray and first president, he died I believe in 1906 and his heirs received his shares which ultimately made some Grays quite wealthy, one of which started Gray Motor Co.

Max Merritt Packard parts will have the bearings and seals

I've used Brake and equipment warehouse in Minneapolis, MN to re-line shoes with quick turn around and arching too! 612-378-3141

Here it is re assembled awaiting paint! Olson's had the cork.

Contact David Stewart in Longview TX, 903-918-3726, he used to rebuild these.

Went to adjust valves on my 733 and when I removed the valve cover I found the inner piece was loose and a good many valve springs were running against it. Possibly the screws had been over tightened in the past and the inner piece became un attached ( it was bent ) it is only riveted with the spacers and not strongly. My question to everyone is , Has anyone encountered the heavy piece of cork sandwiched between the two pieces? and what was its function? Was this a sound deadener? The gasket for the cover is separate entirely. Also is it really necessary? Before I repair this I would love input! Thanks Giles van Hees

Mr Peterson, Please let me know how I can Contact you more directly as I would like to get what parts you have. Thanks for the excellent pics Giles van Hees

Looking for a starter crank handle for this car and part # 48835 stoplight switch connector and # 138911 the plug that goes into it.

Rusty, My digging around brought up the same name that you mention with regard to F & S, however I agree with you about being doubtful that Abbott used a German made clutch. One of those things we will probably never know. So much stuff for so many makers was made by small shops all over.

My 1910 Model 30 has the exact badge on it.

I have a late 1910 / early 11 Model 30 Abbott with a continental engine. This car uses a wet clutch built in unit with the transmission, All the discs, drive and driven are steel with four pressure springs. The owners handbook states " To lubricate the clutch, use a pint of cylinder oil" also " Do not use kerosene in the clutch case" . I use the same in the transmission and one end of the clutch hub rides on a pilot on one of the transmission shafts so there probably is some seepage there. It drags when cold but after a little bit it works okay. Some period literature I have of the time (Motor Age) has technical articles about the model 30 and states that it uses an "F & S clutch", however I do not know what those letters stand for. I had some pics from when it was apart showing the disc assembly pressure plate and bronze throw out also the rebuilt universal that is between the engine and the transmission.

WTB a decent gauge for the bottom of my presolite tank or at least a restorable one not necessarily functionable!

i can not find Cheryl Vaughn in Willow Street or Paul Vaughn who owns or owned a Pullman car. My search found a phone number but a voice said there had been no Vaughns there for seven years. Anymore Thought? Giles

On June 26 2014 There was a joint AACA/HCCA tour in the Lancaster, PA area. Saw this in Pre-war car magazine. There is a post by someone with a 1914 Model T and a picture of it crossing a stream. Also in the list of participating cars there is mentioned an Abbott Detroit. As the owner of one of these myself and due to their extreme scarcity I would like to try to locate that car and owner. If indeed in PA, I am in MD and would love to contact! Can anyone help? Giles

Back in 2008 and 09 I put up a 92' x 46' with a 16' ceiling. That gave roughly 91' x 45' on the inside. You should take into account where the roofing joints are so the corner rake trim is over a ridge. I had a building supply co which does pole barn plans do up the materials list for me and that came to about 42,000. I had Amish put it up and that labor got close to 40,000 too! That may have included the loft over all those garage spaces. Used concrete posts in the ground with a bracket on top to set the posts on. Insulated doors, 6" studs in the walls and insulation in the walls and ceiling. When it came to the floor I put tubing in the concrete and 2" green board under the floor as well as a plastic vapor barrier. I keep the slab at 65 degrees in the winter and it feels very comfortable working in there. It takes only a high efficiency 200,000 btu propane heater to heat the water and last winter (Maryland) used about 500 gal of propane. Including concrete and the heat system ( I did myself ) the total got close to 111,000. The problem is now I need more space! I didn't mention I finished the inside with plywood and steel ceiling.