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cxgvd

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  1. Please bear with me, I've not seen this discussed and I will relate two stories which have me thinking of the way I view antique cars. Last year on the AACA Vintage Tour there were several Model A Fords as you would expect. About half of them had wider, lower tires, one stop I was parked beside one and I asked the driver. He showed me his car, I repeat his car, he told me the wheels are from a '37 Ford, he was using a 12 volt alternator, had an overdrive transmission and hydraulic brakes. One of those times when the mouth begins without a brain I blurted out " It's a hot rod." Wish I could take the remark back, the owner assured me his Ford was not a hot rod. I don't know? On another forum I told how I rebuilt the original Schebler carburetor for my Buick and surprisingly it was working well. Another poster said a modern Carter was better and the only use for a Schebler was for a show car. That made me feel pretty good, never had show car before? Regards, Gary Van Dyken
  2. Sorry to hear of your bad experience with the HCCA, did not know that. A fellow in my region sold his Mitchell from the HCCA ad perhaps a Somali prince purchased the car? Anyway lovely Buick, good hunting, Gary
  3. If you could stand more advice, perhaps advertise at HCCA.org. There is a fee but could be worthwhile, let the Snapper's treasurer know the car is available and it would be useful for this ad to say where the car is located. We are planning to attend the summer tour in NY state and the Hershey Hangover with the Snappers. BTW welcome to the AACA Forums, Gary
  4. This is a beautifully restored Buick. Qualifies for Snapper's tours, painted the correct dark blue and grey wheels and has the 165 Cu In engine which is well known and likely the easiest to keep maintained. A few years ago we toured 9 days, 700 miles around Lake Erie and one of these Model 35 did it with four adults on board. I am not associated with the owners, just offering an opinion, if you want to step up from a pre '16 Ford this seems like the car. Best of luck, Gary
  5. Thanks for the gentle reminder to place our best foot forward and out of our mouth. Regards, Gary
  6. The model 10 is pretty, painted correct colours and upholstery, many nice original features and a nice buy IMO. However and I can't believe I am writing this down if a person compares size, comfort, power, top speed and mostly parts supply buy a Ford. Gary
  7. I have two used model R's I planned to refurbish but the spread of the bolt holes to the intake are too wide, the Model O is smaller and it is the carby I received when I bought the car. Also the Model L would be good but I have never seen one except in books. Don't know which Marvel would work for the 201 engine, the Marvel I mentioned is on the 165 engine in the McLaughlin C 25. In the past for the '13 201 engine I have run a Model A Ford, which I personally did not have success with and mostly I ran an Air Friction aluminium carby which I think I wore out because sometimes it has left me sitting. Both the Schebler and Marvel have Gregg Lange's modern material floats inside If I was to try to use the Model R I would get some brass threaded rod, fill the existing holes, solder them in, bore out the correct holes and re tap. I think the R is a good choice in this application because it is well known and widely used by many different makes of cars. Best of luck Rod, I trust this helps you. Gary
  8. Winter finally called surrender in the mid west and I am the luckiest SOB in Ontario. The first day temperatures reached warm my furnace quit, just needed a new igniter but if it was January it could have been serious. Next my 1913 Buick's engine started on the second pull which is not surprising except I had installed a Schebler Model O carburetor I refurbished. I lightly powder blasted it, cut new gaskets and fitted it with a new float made by Gregg Lange. The engine was running lean so I turned out the needle valve and it smoothed right out, however upon acceleration it would backfire again so I turned out the adjustment a bit richer and then my wife and I drove the car around the neighborhood. Wow, easy, hundred year old vehicle with finally the proper carb. Feeling pretty cocky now, I pressed on with the first start of the 1915 McLaughlin. Well, long story longer it too started. Not good but enough to pump oil to the sight gauge, heat up the paint on the exhaust manifold and listen for any weird noises. Nearly three years into the restoration I can now press on with finishing the job this summer. Top picture is the fuel side of the 1913 then the ignition side of the McLaughlin. Regards, Mr Lucky
  9. Peter I've reviewed the ad you provided a link for and it seems as if it would be a fun car. It is a B25 which has the model 10 engine and is well known and easy to keep on the road, sort of, but not as easy as a Ford. Many things wrong with the layout of the car, most of which are obvious but could be put right in time. Regards, Gary
  10. Since this is a thread concerning 1913 Buick prices I feel I can offer my experiences and opinions. In 1998 my wife and I purchased a '13 Buick model 31, fifteen year old restoration, turn key car for $22,000 Can. It has given us many miles and many friends. I've rebuilt the engine, replaced the tires and refinished the paint during the various winters. I'd like to replace the top, it is OK but faded, I estimate the cars value today at 50. to 60,000USD though not actively for sale. Three years ago I bought a 1915 McLaughlin C25 that hasn't run since 1991 but was an easy project car for $12,000 Can. It is being fully restored and I estimate the finished price to come in about 30.000. Even doing all of the work myself in my home repair shop plating is costly, primer is 150.00 a gallon, tires, leather, all add up, though everything will be new and shining. Both cars are eligible for the HCCA and AACA Snappers events which is where the values are generated. So i've done it both ways, bought finished car and restored my own, both have advantages and disadvantages sometimes with hundred year old cars it mostly is a question of what you can find. I think you have been in the market for a while, best to wait for a recession. Good hunting, Gary Van Dyken
  11. Sorry do not know about the map light or switch. To steal your thread I noticed in your picture that your speedometer counts up by 15 MPH increments and that is a sign of an early production 1939 Buick. My question concerns your frame, or as people have called it the bobtail Buick. I understand Buick updated the frame by adding an extra piece at the rear, does your car have this retrofit and how is it attached, welded or bolted? Thank, I've never seen one with the short frame and wondered. Regards, Gary in Southern Ontario
  12. I do not know if you could find a reproduction, likely you could make one. Medium green, flat profile, light must pass through and if necessary I could take a photo of mine. Regards, Gary
  13. I certainly do not want to get into a p=ssing match with Mark, a fellow I have met. The subject is well discussed and argued on the site BrassBuicks.org. Harold Sharon ( bless his soul) helped me many times in the past though he liked to updated his car to make it perform better. I differed with Mr Sharon on this, my car is original, as built, without re engineering. I agree changing the shaft as Mark and others propose has advantages but in my opinion the price is too high because it looks altered. I am on my third shaft in twenty years, not a big deal to me steel is easy to obtain. If you want to mark the gears so they can be assembled the same go ahead, on my car the connection to the mag (timing) is infinitely adjustable so it doesn't matter. So as I see it, improve the car or love the deficiencies is a question? IMHO, Gary
  14. Slide the gear and shaft out from the front. Timing, mean gear placement wth the cam gear, does not matter. Press out the worn shaft and press in the new shaft in the old gear and re-install. There is an interesting, long discussion about this job presently on an other site called BrassBuicks.org. The Model 31 is a good car, that is mine on the home page on BrassBuicks named "Glowing Gaseous Globes" There is a sort of joke about this model 31, it goes something like Buick had a water pump and built the car around it! Thanks Larry, the picture help others to see the shaft and issues involved to remove it. Good luck, Gary
  15. Thanks men, I will scuff the existing paint and spray two coats of clear. Saves sanding time too. Gary
  16. I have a 1939 Century, good car except for a few problem areas. The car needs wiring and I have a new harness from Rhode Island, the speedometer jams and will not read fast than 45 MPH and the steering wheel plastic had voids and other cracks. I filled the rim with JB Weld, primed, sanded and painted with the darkest burgundy the paint store had but it too dark. I tried to match the cigarette lighter maybe I should have used the horn center cap. Now I plan to use the wheel as is for a time and then perhaps some other year use it for a pattern to cast a rim. Take the dash board out, repair or replace the malfunctioning speedo and install the new harness by May 21st. Colour is the proper spelling of colour in Canada and I may re-finish the wheel a few shades lighter, in the picture it looks black but it is not. What do you think? Thanks for listening, Gary
  17. Backfiring thought the carburetor is often a sign of lean fuel mixture. Regards, Gary
  18. Opportunities in the mid west include the Old Car Festival, a pre'33 event in the fall and the Gilmore pre '42 in May, both in Mich. Also pre war weekend tours, various times and locales. I nearly forgot the AACA Vintage Tour every odd numbered year. Best of luck, Gary
  19. Top picture is the antique coil cleaned and ready for the new innards. Bottom one is the insides of the new one. Now unsolder three wires from the new and re solder to the same connections in the old housing. Fill the remaining space in the restored coil with candle wax or I have a product called Evirotechlite ( think of a coin suspended in Lucite) which would be permanent and irreversible. Install the end cap and then a restored piece of electrical equipment I did myself, with some forum help and encouragement. Thanks, Gary
  20. When you mess about with 100 year old cars people ask where parts are sourced and I say I have to make them. I thought that meant I know a good machine shop, a plater who works with nickel and a shop that cuts gears. I can repair my antique coil. Begin. The screws securing the case to the ends removed easily. I thought heat would be needed to remove the insides of the old coil. My wife said not to use her toaster oven so I borrowed one from the neighbour. I started with the lowest setting but wound up at 350 F before orange coloured goo dripped out. Now I will cut the wires to the connectors then back into the heat to melt out the remaining residue, which is hard and plastic when it cools. Regards, Gary
  21. Thanks Larry. Seems as if I could do this except when I asked the parts guy said the coil is oil filled. Messy and what does the oil do? Would the wax you mention replace the oil? Gary
  22. I purchased a standard 6V coil from my local UAP store and noticed it is the same length and smaller diameter than an original coil which I got with the 1915 C25. Got me to thinking if I could hide the new coil in the old casing and use the wiring connecters. A shorter coil would work? I went back to the parts store but they couldn't tell the sizes from their books. Is this a doable project, is their someone I could turn to for help? Electricity is not my best subject. I could mount the new coil as is to the housing easily but it would not look right. In the photo are the parts I have to work with. Thanks in advance, Gary
  23. Does your generator "motor" before you try the starter? As I read the instructions the generator must rotate slowly before the starter petal is pressed to drop the brush on the starter commutator. At the same time it lifts a brush from the generator commutator. Perhaps the generator is not disconnecting. Just a thought, Gary
  24. I've not done it but fill the combustion chamber with small diameter rope through the spark plug hole, lift the piston to compress it and the rope will hold the valve closed, with the rocker arm removed of coarse. Good luck, Gary
  25. Since this thread has become quiet I will tell you what I have been doing to get ready for my first start of my 1915 165 cu in engine. All the advice on oiling is not appropriate for me, I have no oil pressure. My oil pump lifts oil to the sight glass and then drains to four connecting rod troughs. So after the oil pan is filled to full I then add another gallon of 10w30 which will flood the engine and top up the troughs. Then with no spark plugs I spin the engine over to splash oil into the catch basins over the main bearings and around the cam and lifters. Then I drain the excess oil through the level tap on the side of the oil pan. Even though the engine was built using an assembly lube, now it is soaked. The timing gear case is separate from the crankcase and is lubed with gear oil and the valve stems and rockers are oiled by hand. It is snowing today in southern Ontario. I have to finish my wiring, connect a fuel line, mount a new coil and I ordered a new Optima battery because trying to get the lead/ acid one under the floor is a back breaker. Check out my new flat leather fan belt my local shoe repair place made this week, $15.00. Wish me good fortune, I hope to be on the road June 10th.
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