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cxgvd

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Everything posted by cxgvd

  1. I do not have an answer for you except to say you should experiment. If dry, do they levers move freely without noise and keep the levers in place, then fine, dry. if not and the levers are herky jerky then some lubrication, maybe anti-seize compound. Good luck and let us know what you find out. Gary
  2. Been off this project for too long, my self imposed due date is 4 days away so an updated finish time is now Labour Day. Yesterday and today I have been installing and trimming the excellent battleship linoleum, walnut brown, I purchased from Tony Lauria in Pa. The ring you see is a repop from Gregg Lange in Mi and is called a floor thimble. It helps in lifting the main floor, gives you something to hang onto. I have one in my 1913 Buick but was missing in this 1915 McLaughlin, the beautiful plate which surrounds my shifter and parking brake I received with the project but am still missing a moulding around the exhaust cutout. Easy to replicate though. The mouldings are from L and L, a company which I believe is out of business. The windshield is finished and installed, the two buttons at the bottom center are tube nuts which, should be plated but to me that looks odd so they will be painted black. The handle inside is also black and is stamped with the name of the manufacturer. I erected the top I got with the job because I needed to measure the total height, 81", 5" less than the height of my trailer and 3" less than my 1913 Buick. The serial number of the car is stamped in large type in the front seat wooden, riser board and on a brass plate nailed to the floor. The total restoration, so far, two weeks short of 3 years, a big job, but doing everything myself, in my home workshop is a rewarding experience. Regards, Gary
  3. Hey Doug; See you there. My Buick is down for repairs waiting for parts from California. Catching a ride with a local guy you know, Len, in his limousine at 7:00. Only my 2nd time at Country Cruise. Gary
  4. Next final update. I've found a gas leak, a small one, it softens the undercoating and leaves a stain, seems the outlet pipe is cracked on the sender. I could have repaired the crack but the cork float inside the tank is seized in the empty position. Since reproductions are available I ordered one from Bob's killing two birds with a single stone. Sound fuel line, all new wiring from gauge to float and no need to outrun a trail of flame. Regards, Gary
  5. Neil; I hope you are correct concerning my gas gauge. I once ran out of fuel at 3/4 mark on the dash so likely a trip to the gas station is in order following a visit with my financial guru. Washed the Century after lunch I am a happy camper. Gary
  6. My wife and I wanted a car to drive on prewar tours which are becoming popular in our area, Motor Muster at the Henry Ford, Gilmore and local clubs all have at least one. We have a prewar car but we wanted a faster, late thirties sedan, really a roadster but being on a fixed income, a sedan. I believed you couldn't be a proper gear head until you have had a Packard but then I found this 1939 Century was available. I've admired this car for over twenty years. This car was an early example for Ziebart rustproofing and was in one of their showrooms for decades, taken out for the occasional show. The fellow I purchased the '39 from drove the car 1,000 miles in the past 10 years. The car needed a lot of things to make it a touring car, I changed all of the fluids, scraped out the oil pan but mostly the wiring was in poor condition. It is not an original car, it has been repainted and reupholstered and the undercoating is excellent. Just finished changing the wiring harness and we have a nearby show in mind in two weeks. The photo is taken in front of my shop which was built in 1954. No more thoughts of getting a Packard, this is the car for me. Regards, Gary
  7. Final update, I have who friend who says education is expensive until you try to do without it. Body harness is attached running along the floor and everything works, but I am not happy with the job because it is messy and I had to remove the original trunk matting and likely did some damage to the fabric. My headliner is a replacement though nicely done and I am loathe to mess it up as well. I am thinking I will remove the harness, store it, and run new wires individually. Then I can make them anyway I want and hide them better, you don't see them until the last few inches before the lamps. Started the engine this morning and my wife and I went for a test drive around the county maybe ten miles. Steering wheel is finished and I am pleased with the result, speedometer is free now until at least 60 MPH, gas gauge reads mostly E though I put in two or three gallons from the lawn mower so I suspect it is not working properly. The '39, which have named Trudy, is quiet and comfortable. I'm sure it will become a good and reliable touring car. And I installed a Buick 8 valve cover vinyl from Bob's, next a spring time wash. Thanks, Gary
  8. Update Thursday. Main or engine wiring harness is in, the engine starts and the ammeter reads charging correctly according to dashboard gauge. No smoke or sparks, however, I learned I have the wrong voltage regulator and the vacuum switch is not functioning. I installed a spring loaded button located inside the car to run the starter for now. Brought the engine up to temp and changed the oil. Last night I reviewed Gary W fine restoration post concerning his wiring and found we had the same problem specifically which terminals to attach which wires at the starter solenoid. I guess it is moot because the starter cranks the engine nicely. Also on his thread my friend Larry said he laid the rear body harness on the floor of the car and didn't disturb the headliner, seems right and I plan to copy him. Headlamps harness should be easy and the dome light is a project for the future. Thanks, Gary
  9. Tuesday update. I've managed to remove the light switch, it was similar to the instructions above, thanks Rodney. The harness is laid loosely around the engine and under the dash. The time consuming item now is when I touch some electrical part I have to clean the part to find a letter, number or symbol which relates to the instructions, hope that makes sense. Then because I am driving an old restoration I have to decide whether to reinstall the item as is, to match the look of the rest of the car or to restore or replace the part. For instance the horns are left alone although they are less than ideal, the generator relay is new, bright and shiny so I refinished the horn relay to match. So far so good, the new harness is flawless. Regards, Gary
  10. Personal choice purely and in my opinion the 1954 Century hardtop or convertible is a beautiful looking auto. Don't have one but that is my favourite from your list. Regards, Gary
  11. Haven't found any interesting slogans, worked on the replacement Sunday afternoon, standing on my head. Unpacked the new harness and tacked up the directions from Rhode Island on a handy message board in the shop. Cut away or unscrewed the old, crusty wires and threw them into a corner in case I need some hardware, various switches I bagged up and marked. With the dash panel loosened now I plan to address the binding speedometer, I hope a gentle tweak of the needle will help it to clear the base. Then I will refinish the surround in the dark burgundy colour, doesn't look as if it was woodgrained, polish the bright work and it should be ready for new wires and reinstalling. So far so good, I am not a mechanic I just play one in my garage. Do not understand yet how to remove the light switch? Regards, Gary
  12. Cruising the Pre War tour at the Gilmore Museum near Kalamazoo, Mi and one of the stops on our 75 mile drive was the home of civil war hero General Benjamin Pritchard. I parked my 1913 Model 31 in front of the home and two civil war re-enactors. Pre '42 car show on the grounds tomorrow with activities. Lovely drive today, through rolling countryside and 75F with sun. Life doesn't get much better does it? Regards, Gary
  13. Thanks for the encouragement, I will keep you posted as it goes. Gary W used Rhode Island for his car, me too, they supplied both main and body as well as the headlamps. Didn't get extra signals for the front even though the car has fender lamps, I am funny that way, keep the car the way it came. Someone else suggested removing the front seat for more comfort and the steering wheel had voids so it was restored as part of this job, also the speedo jams at 45 MPH so I hope to address the issue during this retrofit. My car had electrical problems, mostly involving the starter, I am nervously looking forward to getting this completed. I have a car show in mind June 10th for this rocket. Gary
  14. Next project, and electricity is my weakest subject among others. I am confident, I have good parts, tools and a book. Wish me luck, Gary
  15. My camera is a Nikon and it has a setting in the menu where two images are recorded, raw and jpeg, per click. I always select jpeg from the computer's hard drive to upload an image for this forum, newsletters, email, etc. Raw is for hard prints, desktop backgrounds or to study a detail. Regards, Gary
  16. P Glad your car is painted, it is a major step. You don't have to compare your progress to others, do what you are able when you can and stick with it. I wish I was as organized as Gary W, he is the best, I am 3 years into my project and there are others who are 20. We are all just guys, hang in there. Thanks, Gary
  17. An hour from Doug's house in Kent County a farmer I asked told me received 6.5 inches of rain Saturday. The most rainfall he has ever seen. I have a storm catch basin in my driveway, it measures 4' wide 4 ' long and 6' deep and it was full of rainwater to the top, glad I live 8 miles from the nearest river or lake. Today, Sunday, the sun back. Regards, Gary
  18. Hello Peter. You can come to Chatham Sat, May 26 for a free car show downtown, the BIA pays the expenses. My local car club is the host so I will be there to do my part. I do not show there because it is for hot rods and a few antiques but it is, so far anyway, no cost to show or to the public. Bev and I will be going to Essex again this June 10th, $!0 to enter a car but the public pays as well because it has a museum and controlled entrance. Free shows also at Erieau and Blenheim if you are looking for places to go in Ontario we would go with you. All the best, Gary
  19. Do not know if I can add to the conversation concerning measuring, here is a collection of caps which I have acquired and fit my '13 and '15, the same size and thread for all. The black cap is closest to original equipment and I use it the most often, especially if I am away from the car visiting museum for instance. The large Buick Motometer on the wings has an insert to correct the size, same for the Moore Semaphor on the lock-a-meter, which has been re nickeled. The dog bone has a 1915 Boyce meter made in Hamilton On. has a McLaughlin logo. Finally the flip top is the fanciest, original, lovely, finish. It had exterior threads which I cut off and internally turned to my size and 16 TPI. Hope this helps you see some of all the choices available Ronnie. Regards, Gary
  20. Here is my entry for taillight Thursday, our 1913 Buick model 31 loaded into it's trailer ready to attend the Gilmore Museum's Pre War event week from Friday. Third annual tour and show on the grounds of the Gilmore near Battle Creek, Mi and my first. Any pre war Buick people going? Look me up and we will ride around the red barns on Saturday. Hope we visit the OFF brothers on the Friday tour. Regards, Gary
  21. Bev and I are attending from Canada for the first time with our 1913 Buick model 31. Looking forward to it, hope we visit the OFF brothers. Regards, Gary
  22. Made some progress on my 1915 McLaughlin touring car lately so an update is provided. Last I posted I got it running with the original Marvel carburetor. Body is back on the frame. battleship linoleum is applied to the running boards and I installed the old top just so I can get it off the floor. Last fall I did a bad job of painting of the hood in black single stage. I had to sand off the paint on the louvered sections and redo them but I managed to save the tops with 1000 grit and then 2000 grit before machine compounding and polishing. Today I installed the hood on the car and it is wonderful to be past that issue, looks good to me. I have an arrangement with a local restoration shop who does small jobs for me and he doesn't mind me bringing in jobs if I do them myself. So I sandblasted the windshield, I provided the sand and the labour he let me use his shop and equipment. I pointed out a small dent in the tubing and asked him how to repair it. Turns out it was a small job and he fixed the dent for me, again looks good. Windshield parts are painted black and ready to go on. Next step rear fenders, end is in sight now, I am going to install the original upholstery at least to begin with. The last load of nickel plating is due from the platers soon. I plan to drive the car locally this summer and work out the bugs if any before hitting the road. Thanks, Gary Van Dyken
  23. Good Luck, Matt. A few more hours and you will be on the prairies. Gary
  24. At Flint, Mi in 2003 at the Buick Centennial show I saw a modified '38, which I would call a hot rod being loaded into an enclosed trailer. What was that about, I thought the idea of putting a modern driveline in an old car was to make it a fine, reliable, safe driver? I say sell the Buick, sell the trailer and the pickup and get a new Porsche. If a person wants to use a trailer leave the old car original or am I being too judgemental? Regards, Gary
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