Roger Garnett
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Posts posted by Roger Garnett
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The price looks about what Hagerty lists for a condition 4 vehicle $19,000, even tho it looks more like a #3 ($30,000). Still, it got a bunch more than a very similar car did in September ($10,500) - https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1953-cadillac-series-62-sedan/
The Hagerty price guide (free) is usually in the ball park, so either these are deals, or indicate the market for 50's iron is falling away. That, and people are spending less as prices for gas and such are rising.
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There will be a meeting for REO 1 & 2 cylinder owners and fans at Hershey, at
1:00 Thurs Early REO the Curved Dash Olds club tent in the red field, RWK25 to 29
- Resurrecting the REO 1 & @ registry
- Collecting & preserving Early REO history
- On-line forums - The Early REO group, Facebook, REO Club, AACA, etc
- Owners, cars, parts - tech, projects, needs, fabrication
- All REO 1 & 2 cylinder cars & trucks, 1904-1914
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F26 -
I can't recommend anyone in particular, but you can try on your won, or look for shops that do any similar coils.
The Brush coil is of similar operation to Ford Model T, and many other buzz box coils. The basic wiring is pretty simple.
They can be tested and adjusted stand-alone, out of the car, with a battery and some wire. Once it's known to work, you can add-in the car's wiring and timer. If you search for Model T coil test and adjustment, you'll find a number of articles, as well as YouTube videos.
https://cool386.com/fordcoils/fordcoils.html
Roger
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Quantify "lots" - boxes, shelves, a room, a garage full, a barn full... Probably best to get in touch with local car friends / clubs and find someone who can help. It helps if you know era or brands of what he usually had- prewar? 50's? Ford vs Chevy , import, other? Get a couple opinions. If you just want the space cleared, find one or two people who will take everything (NOT a scrap hauler!) You can probably get a lot price for everything, or you might be able to find someone who will give you a percentage of sale - but it takes a lot of work and time to sort, identify, and sell a large amount of stuff. There are a few ways to sell such parts, ranging from swap meets and markets, to selling individual bits on-line -including here - but for that you need some idea what you have, and it's value. Some photos here could help with general identification.
Here is the list of local regions of AACA: https://aaca.org/list-of-regions-chapters/
You can also find local clubs and regions for specific makes, or general multi-make clubs as well.
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Congratulations! Nice simple fix, once you know what's needed.
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That cable is pretty simple to make. Looks like like length of cable, couple of crimped ends, and a threaded eyebolt..
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And a place that scans blueprints and such can do a scan with a drum scanner, if the doc is up for it.
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You may be able to use a decent flatbed scanner and multiple scans. Or talk to a copy center about possible large format scanning, or a true flatbed scanner that you can use to scan part at a time. Then you can stitch the photos together. If not, a place that does artwork prints from original art should have a high resolution camera & lighting setup.
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Bill -
They appear to be Maxwell 2-cylinder jugs. What is the bore diameter? If 4-1/2", they would fit several models, from 1907-1912. If you have measurements and photos from multiple angles, a good place to sell them would be the Maxwell-Briscoe group, which covers the 1905-1912 cars. (free account to join at https://maxwellbriscoeowners.groups.io/
Photo of a 1910 Maxwell AA engine:
Roger
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Looking good.
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Looking for another hood hold down as shown in the attached photos. It's for a 30's special race car. Any ideas?
Roger
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We need a hood hold-down for a 30's race special (we have one) - it's been suggested that it may be from a Marmon. See attached photos - Any ideas if that's a Marmon part, and better yet, a source?
Roger
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Oldsman - you would do well to join the EarlyREO group and ask there. Your photos explain the hub removal spanner listed on the EarlyREO wiki tools page.
Roger
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In the US, "titles" are regulated by the states, so there are 50 different sets of regulations and records. Some states title all cars, others not so much... In NY State for instance, every car for the road needs a registration, which gets you the plate... And "Titles" of ownership are only issued for cars from 1974 and newer. Ownership of older cars is by "transferable registration". There are a web sites showing the regs for each state.
So, that still doesn't solve your problem. Somehow you need an authority that will issue a title for a car without one.
The numbers show your car is clearly an AB, which is a 1911 model year car. But there's no manufacturer records to prove it. In some states, the DMV or police would look at the numbers on the car to verify, check national databases for duplicates, and and then issue a title or registration. But they would likely want to see the car. Another state might work from a tracing of the serial number, or simply filed paperwork, which could then be transferred to you.
This (non official) site does a good job of summarizing regulations.
Also, consider joining the Maxwell Brisco group at https://groups.io/g/MaxwellBriscoeOwners/ for technical and historical assistance.
Roger
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Send George one of your hub caps, and he'll make a custom puller that fits like a glove. A bit pricey, but good luck otherwise.
Hub pullers
Roger
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Wheelbase & track width would help a bunch. Interesting hoop around the differential. Photos of the front axle, rear hubs, and other details would help too.
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You forgot the price.
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If it's a model I, that's a 4 cylinder, 25 hp.
I have recently gotten an 08 LC 2 cylinder, which is quite different. You should be able to get a lot of help by joining the Maxwell-Briscoe owners group.
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I have recently gotten an 08. Similar, but many differences as well. You should be able to get a lot of help by joining the Maxwell-Briscoe owners group.
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Congratulations! One of your best resources will be the REO club of America. https://reoclub.org/
Also an active REO club group on Facebook.
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Several videos on YouTube. You could make your own, or perhaps pick up a source from the videos.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+make+a+wood+steering+wheel
and if you do a web search for "wood steering wheel rebuilding", you'll find some sources.
Roger
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You don't say where you are.. But in the states anyhow you're looking at Federal regs. Yet, a monocle may slip through regs.
I'd check with a local glass shop about fitting safety glass.
Brush Crank
in Brush Automobiles
Posted
You shouldn't need a custom made pin - Tapered pins are a standard hardware item. (and straight dowel pins) Measure the id (internal dimension) of the hole at both ends to get the diameter, and figure out the length needed.
A local hardware or farm store may have a small selection (avoid big box), and Amazon has some, but industrial suppliers like Grainger are the primary source.
https://www.grainger.com/category/fasteners/pins/taper-pins
The pin is tapped in tight. You might then peen over the small end to keep it from coming out - but remember you may want to remove it at some point as well.