jp928

Roller bearings have been credited to John Harrison of longitude fame in the 1720-40 period. Some appear in his clocks from then. One of his clocks in a stable turret was installed in 1720 , and is STILL running, with ONE service. jp 26 Rover 9

Most places that reline shoes will radius them in the price if you take the drums along... jp 26 Rover 9

I wouldnt worry about it quite that much Bernie! If there was no 'booked hard waste' hivis orange sticker, forget it altogether! My remark was mostly tongue in cheek. If they come, pretend deafness, or not speaking English. I am sorely tempted to do as you have quite frequently, except SWMBO gets very cranky at me. jp 26 Rover 9

Be careful Bernie, or the men in blue may come for you. Stuff put out for a hard waste collection belongs to the contracted waste collector as soon as its out of the owners property. Does look nice though, and should make a good dash! jp 26 Rover 9

I have had an answer to an ad of mine for parts on another site from somebody unkown. Answered asking what parts they had, and was sent a picof my own car from Flickr as being available for parts! Sent him off with a flea in his ear, and advised others on the site. jp 26 Rover 9

Great work, love watching this sort of process! Thats a terrific bearing puller you have, and some very imaginative uses of the local flora. Maybe I missed it, but have you had the relined rear brake shoes radiused to suit the drums? Can be very helpful to getting good contact over the whole shoe, without high spots. jp 26 Rover 9

One of my great Aunts in NZ had a sedan version. Got pulled up in it by a copper - 'This is a one way street Madam! Didnt you see the arrows?' - 'Arrows? I didnt even see the Indians! Anyway, I am only going one way. I know, its a bit old, but my Mum told me it. jp 26 Rover 9

Whats the 'sudden' failure mode peculiar to Treadle-vac? Once had a 'suddden' brake failure in a 48 Rover, as I parked it - the brake pedal broke off! jp 26 Rover 9

I had a car once which specified .003" end float for tapered roller front hubs, and provided a 52 point vernier adjustment on the hub nut/washer. Tapered rollers do NOT like to run end loaded when up to temperature. In this they are very different from ball bearings. Who invented the roller bearing, and why? jp 26 Rover 9

You will need to get the right type of linings as mentioned above - mechanical brakes will need a much softer lining than hydraulics to work well. Also take your drums along, as they will need to be checked for roundness/concentricity, and maybe machined true again. After new linings are fitted to shoes they should be 'radiused' to match the drum they are going to work in - this ensures there are no high spots that can make your braking uneven. Edit - Seems the Flying Cloud was the first car to use Lockheed Hydraulics brakes, so lining choice should not be difficult. Recommend a pair of spring pliers for the R&R of the shoes. jp 26 Rover 9

Thanks for the Zoo tool link, will look that up! jp 26 Rover 9

Interesting thought, thanks. Zootool only comes up on the web as software ? Problem with my radiator is that it seems the coolant is not forced through the core, but can easily run down the side tanks around the core, and back to the water pump, while the bottom half of the core sees no flow. I have got some debris out in this second run at descaling, but if the water can bypass the core, the air will be able to as well. Will see if I can cobble up a Y piece to allow water and air to be pushed through - have plenty of water pressure, but only a small air compressor. Will advise if I have any luck. thanks jp 26 Rover 9

Check that going from lock to lock , nothing interferes with anything, and from full compression to full droop of the springs. Are the zerks still accessible for greasing? jp 26 Rover 9

Bernie, The diagram shows the tensioners on the drive side of the chain run - most other chains I have seen have their tensioners on the slack side? jp 26 Rover 9

I would go for LEDs all around, except headlights. They are now available in 6V and 12V in almost any format you can think of - red or white stop/tail (twin filament, offset pins), festoons, BA15, BAY15, BA15S, BA15D etc etc. Especially good for 6V systems because of their much lower current draw. Before installing locate the +ve end by testing , and mark with a texta or sharpie. jp 26 Rover 9, 6V

I have a 26 Rover 9 with true honeycomb radiator woes - runs hot at idle, bottom half of core does not get hot, so I reckon its scaled up inside. The NZ company quoted me A$3200 for a new core + shipping. The above UK company vintagecarradiatorcompany quoted me A$1400 (GBP800) including boxing and shipping. Either way I would need a local professional to R&R the core into the radiator shell. Might have to do that if I cant get the scale out - trying again now. jp 26 Rover 9 https://imgur.com/a/eT4fq

Canon scanners sometimes come with attachments that take 35mm negs or slides. My experience with scanning Kodacolor negs on Canon scanners has been very good - excellent results. IIRC you can do several at once according to how many fit in the attachment. This might help :- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LO4X6vAtIxU jp 26 Rover 9

Jay, Down here in Oz we seem to have a 35C that the baby was copied from - see http://www.motormarques.com/community/drivers-and-cars/item/76-hetrel-george . George H is in his 80s now, and still competes in the car - I have seen him smoking the tyres at a hill climb near me. Keep up the good work, this is a terrific project to watch. thanks john

Wolfgang, Thanks for bringing this interesting car up! Sadly the video on the link in Bernie's answer is too jerky to be watchable , at least on my system. To partly answer your question, a bit - the Rover P6 2000 (64-77) had a 4cyl 2L engine with SOHC . The cam drive was double row chain, in 2 stages - first to distributor and oil pump drive, then to the cam. The chain runs had hydraulic tensioners fed with engine oil. At the cam itself, the chain wheel could be detached from the cam and attached to a bracket mounted on the block to allow the head to be lifted with disturbing the chain. To take up chain wear the cam chain wheel was in 2 parts, with a toothed vernier inside it, allowing for fine adjustment. thanks john 26 Rover 9

Thats not a VIN - they didnt start until 1980, when the US demanded all cars imported there had a structured indentifier. You need to search BLMC for that chassis number, and I doubt it will tell you more than model type and production date, or maybe just week no in the year. UB and UO might give option information, like Manual or auto etc. This page should help - https://rimmerbros.com/content--name-Triumph-Stag-Vehicle-Information LE are Federal cars, from 1972 on, UO suffix Federal with Overdrive, UB? Federal with BW type 35 auto. jp 26 Rover 9

In another life I once worked in a brake workshop, and spent a couple of days working on an older RR sedan, probably a 'std steel'. Probably late 60s. Not much later in life I became a Rover fan, and saw quite a bit of their drum brakes shortly before they went to front discs. I recall thinking that these brakes were almost identical to those I saw on the RR. These were Girling systems, with two big wheel cylinders in twin trailing shoe configuration, self adjusting via friction pads clamped to the shoe webs, and using a large booster.The advantage of the twin trailing shoes is that they are very resistant to fade due to heat, a characteristic I later tested in the Snowy Mountains of Victoria (Oz). Despite initially being very hesitant about working on the RR I found it easy, as nothing could be put back wrong, and even adjusting the mechanical brake booster was not a challenge. I suggest you measure the bores of the wheel cylinders, and see if they match those used on the Rovers - late 50s 105S or R(P4 model), and 3L (P5) from 59 to the advent of discs. The castings may even have their size cast on them. The master cylinder may also have its bore on the casting, and be similar to Rover (and other larger British cars of the period - Humber, Armstrong Siddely etc). I would get good pics of the cylinders and contact the P5 owners club (http://www.roverp5club.org.uk/) to see if they can help. It is common practice these days with brake cylinders to resleep damaged bores with stainless steel, so that might solve your problem. The Rover drums were 11" dia x 3" wide IIRC. Page 19 of this pdf http://www.northwestautomotivehydraulics.co.uk/GIRLING APPLS NW.pdf shows cylinders of 1.25" bore used in several makes of cars . This lists the Rover Cylinder as p/no 390276-7W, service kit SP20151. This pdf http://rrtechnical.info/sc/sc1/wshop/7.pdf lists the RR wheel cylinders as 1.375" bore, and the drums as 11.25" dia. HTH jp 26 Rover 9

Glad to see you got this sorted, and pretty neatly too. My first thought - the casting behind the bolt ears looks round - make a flange out of steel plate (1/4 - 3/8") - cut a hole that will allow the flange to fit over the cast flange, just, and then rotate it 90 degrees. Downside, if it worked, would be the bolts would be 90 degrees off the original, and wouldnt look that good. Could be tested with a plywood dummy first quite quickly. jp 26 Rover 9

If it needs full advance to start, sounds like the advance/retard mechanism has slipped somewhere- any sign of that occurring? Could be anywhere along the chain of linkages. jp 26 Rover 9

Can you expand on the 'might not be adjusted correctly' please? What is the symptom? With my 26 Rover, with everything refurbished (according to receipts from previous owner),but not started before, it would turn over well, but no sign of any action. I set the crank at Cyl 1 firing mark (flywheel), and opened the red lower cap on the magneto (Lucas 4Jx) - the points should have been starting to open, but they were 60-70 degrees away. I removed the maggy without disturbing the crank or maggy connection on the engine side (fortunately easy - external engagement). I loosened the drive flange , turned the shaft until the points just opened, refitted the drive flange and tightened, replaced maggy - it ran. If your issue is failure to run, open the red lower cap (single wire), check that the points do open to the correct gap, and that they are in good condition. Problem could also be condenser failure, which is a PITA as its internal, messy to replace. REmove 1 plug lead, hold 1/4" away from any handy ground of the engine, and see if it sparks when you crank the engine - if it does, condenser is usable, but timing may be out. There is a lot of info out there for the Bosch units - see http://www.go-faster.com/BoschMagnetoVeteran.html . The serial no 279103 , from data on the above web page, appears to have been made in 1907-8 - does it look original on your Maxwell ? See also http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/magnetos/Magdata6.htm hth jp 26 Rover 9

I thought Octane referred to a fuel's ability to resist knock, or pre-ignition, hence the higher the compression, the higher the octane required. ?? jp 26 Rover 9