jsgun

Big thanks to ABandG for the track, very much appreciated. Gonna try to get the windows in before the rainy season

I went wire wheel, swept it out (vacuum would have been better), then wiped it down with lacquer thinner. I then hit it with spray butyl undercoating to seal it from the air, then "protecto-wrap" for a thermal barrier (i'd skip it if I did it again) then noico. Going with a mold and flame resistant denim based insulation (about a inch thick) then carpet. I didn't have that hole on my 64. I scraped out the sealer around the drain plugs, but mine was partially loose. So I pulled it up and resealed it. Noico is good to work with, just keep some lacquer thinner handy to get the rubber off the knife and roller. You'll want to get a small roller if you don't have one. Makes it so much easier. I wouldn't use a primer, it holds moisture. I'd look for something to seal the metal from air. Line of thought is that would slow or hopefully prevent any rust.

I'm looking to buy the driver's side quarter window track for a 63-65. This is the short "L" shaped track that's bolted to the bottom of the window frame using two phillips screws. Thanks!

That looks amazing. I never thought about hydrodipping for the trim panels. I've seen some videos on youtube, amazing stuff.

I picked up a few of those last week actually. My dad is a retired diesel mechanic, I grew up around a great set of tools. Learned early on the importance of having good wrenches. He had a few 90 degree bleeder wrenches, those were awesome. Gonna find a 5/16 - 3/8 bleeder and make life easier.

The replacement drum makes sense, it goes along with the brakes being rebuilt. Thanks for the info! Also, any guesses on what the bleeder screw size is? Is it the same on the front and rear? Not able to get under the car until the weekend.

A wear indicator makes sense, because it's exactly the same on both drums. The first one I pulled, I thought something had gotten into the shoe and scored it. But the other is exactly the same. The front drums don't have this groove. A previous owner had rebuilt the brakes, they look damn near new. Even the drum surfaces.

Both of my rear drums have a groove down the center. Is that a Buick thing? I've never seen that before. I originally though it was a wear mark, but both drums match. Also, anyone know the wrench size for the bleeder screws front and rear? I'm going to get a angled bleeder wrench, but I don't want to craw under the car right now.

Interesting reply. Easy Performance will get my business, soon as I save up enough pennies.

What a knock out. What did you use for the door inserts? Looks like pearloid?

Didn't know that about the wide ovals, interesting. I've got a set of Kelsey-Hayes "Stripper" wheels going on my 64, they'd look boss. I'm always on the lookout for square shoulder bias ply looking radials though. I want the look and the performance both.

Just found them, but seriously considering them. I'd like to give it a try making my own, but the list of stuff I want to try making is getting way too long.

I like the 2 tone. Surprised you're still able to run wide ovals like that. They haven't been made since the late 70's?

These guys make LED tail lights, i like being able to switch patterns, looks good https://easyperformance.com/products/buick-riviera-sequential-led-taillight-kit-63-64?variant=7542151675948

I believe i've read that the job was listed at 6 hours, and I see that as optimistic. Mine had rusted out the surrounding air box, so be ready for surprises. I pulled mine out from the inside and it was an absurd job. I modified my firewall to allow it to be removed from the engine compartment. The mod wasn't difficult, but took some customization to prevent the core from rattling in the airbox. It's incredible that Buick didn't engineer it to remove from the engine compartment. I just don't understand why. I can post pics if you want. My 92 Corvette's heater core is leaking, and the dash has to be removed to get to it. I'm gladly paying a garage $800 to change it for me.

I thought it was way overkill, but I spec'd everything from this calculator, and it was an eye opener. I've done some of the math manually, and this calculator seems to be on point. http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/

Also wanted to mention, the battery is a 27F group, it puts the positive lug towards the middle of the car, and away from the hood. The standard 27 group puts the positive lug dangerously close to the hood at the fender. RivNut pointed me in that direction a couple years ago.

Here's some pics of how I wired my alternator. The alt is a Powermaster CS130 style 140 amp. I mistakenly ordered a single wire style, but decided to keep it. I ran single wire on a mustang with zero issues for years. I used 2 AWG marine wire (tinned copper) with a matching ground wire, terminating at the battery post. The breaker is marine grade 150A. Cables are running under the radiator support out of sight. From the post, a 1/0 AWG cable goes to a Ford starter relay, then to a mini starter. A matching ground runs from the starter (bellhousing mount) back to the battery post. I was told wires coming from the post was bad for corrosion, but mine are plated brass so hopefully it's not an issue. I bought a used crimping tool, and got the wire, terminals, and shrink for pretty cheap by shopping around. Probably $200 in the wire (counting a bunch other not shown) and $150 for the crimper. On the Ford solenoid, the smaller wire (4 AWG) runs under the dash to an industrial contactor (constant rated relay) that takes the load off the ignition switch and splits the load for the breaker panel (fuse block replacement).

Tom, were they the standard height springs? I was thinking 2" drop springs, but I need the car at a drive-able height.

I found these somewhere here a while back, and saved them. I have to do the same repair on mine too.

I don't have any pics, but I can post some tomorrow after work. I'm also running a Ford starter solenoid, and 00 gauge wire to the starter. Ground wire also. I've had lots of problems with grounds before, going overkill this time.

I happened to check mine last weekend, it was a very tight fit also.

Unless you're concerned about having the car look original, i'd replace it with a higher amp version. My charging circuit was burned, I replaced it with a much larger gauge wire. The original is 10 gauge, and according to online load calculators, it was very undersized for future upgrades (electric fans, stereo, possibly air ride). I went with a 140 amp alt (with a breaker), and 2 gauge charging wire (including a ground to the battery from the alternator).

Congrats! someone got a great deal.

I found a NOS driver's side mirror on ebay for cheap, it's identical to the buick piece, but was labeled for an mid 60's olds.