jsgun

I'm trying a couple of things with replacing the stuck window rollers with bearings. Although, I'm considering making my own rollers from UHMW. Also working out the wiring to add power locks, and one-touch power window relays for up and down on all windows.

My driver's door arm was broken, but the passenger side wasn't. I bought some UHMW plastic to attempt to make a new arm. I haven't cut it out yet, but plan to soon. It's an extremely abrasive resistant plastic but it's difficult to cut so i'll try bolting pieces together instead of cutting down a larger piece.

I suspect the hood spring will be considerably stronger than the window spring. I'd guess the window to be about 10lbs, and the hood to be around 90lbs or so. Divided in half (two springs) it would have to be around 45lbs. I think most of these window regulators and springs are roughly the same, so I suspect any 2 door GM car from the 60's through 80's would work.

That's why I'm going with all junkyard stuff. I'd rather risk having OEM parts that might be worn out, rather than junk that you can guarantee will break sooner than later. I'm willing to pay more to get good stuff, but no one seems to make it other than OEM. I have figured out that some Fords and Mercedes have solenoids instead of actuators. I might try some of them if the OEM actuators don't work out.

Ah, ok, I understand better now. That's an unusual system, I've never heard of anything like that. The kits I've seen have a piece that looks like cable lock, so you attach your new actuator rod beside the existing one. They also appear to use a version of the GM actuator. I've seen remotes that will work with factory power locks, I'm hoping to piece together something that works. I plan on cutting my armrest plates, and adding switches. Mine are a little rough, so I won't regret cutting into them. I just have to figure out a way to hold the switches in place.

I'm just getting ready to take this on myself. I bought actuators from chevy trucks at the local junkyard. Also got some Cadillac switches. I plan on using relays with them and the windows too. Did yours have brackets? Do you have pics? I've worked out where I want them, but haven't made them yet.

That happens on old mustangs sometimes. Usually when poly bushings are used. I put a spherical bearing kit on one, and it dramatically improved the braking and handling. I'm not sure I'd do that on a Riv though, it might make it a little harsher.

While researching bulbs, I found this: https://www.superbrightleds.com/carbulb_notes.php Click on "Which bulbs are used in my vehicle?" and put it your model. It had a list of bulbs for the Riviera.

I put a LED taillight kit in my mustang a few years ago. White lights on a circuit board, that gave sequential turn signal lights too. Amazing difference in brightness, it was worth every cent. The originals were so dim I was worried about getting rear-ended at night. I'm seriously considering the same thing for my 64: http://www.easyperformance.com/products/product-detail/id/EPF-CST10-RIV63/name/1963-riviera-sequential-tail-lights https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0MimA81NJY

This is exactly what I needed. Thank you!

Thanks for all the info! Good to know what they were supposed to look like. All 3 of mine look like the pic, badly corroded. I look for them on ebay every once in a while, but no luck. Since they're rare, I may go to some other cap, maybe a chrome bullet. Thanks!

Can anyone tell me what this center cap is from? I'm assuming a Wildcat, but I'm not sure of the year. I'm missing one, and trying to find a replacement. It appears to press in from the backside of the rim.

I think you're doing really good if you can break even on a sale. I seem to be on the losing side of anything I sell. I'm at the opposite perspective. I just bought my Riv, and haven't had a chance to drive it yet. Sitting is really hard on a car, especially here in the desert. Rubber ages quickly from the heat. I'm currently repairing 10 years of sitting. Mine is going to be a daily driver, for good or bad both. I currently drive a 67 Ford daily, so I'm comfortable and familiar with old technology. It is a different experience than the modern cars, but arguably not worse. Just different.

That helps a lot, thanks. I'm betting they're truspokes too. I looked it up, the 15x7 has a 4" backspace, which explains why you had to use the spacer. I think I read here somewhere that anything with more than 3.5" BS hits the drum's fins. I was curious about the spacers, because my favorite wheels (Kelsey hayes "strippers", and Appliance "apache" only came in chevy and small ford bolt patterns. Gotta run 1.5" thick pattern changers to run them.

Do you have a pic of the rear wheels? Curious about the spacing of the tire in the fenderwell with a 1" spacer. Have you seen any maker's mark on the wheels? Are they Kelsey hayes or truspoke? I think spacers have a bad rap because of the pot metal ones they used to sell. Modern ones are much better metal.

I think you're thinking of the same year Cadillac wire wheels. They have a dog dish cap covering the lugs. Skylark wires have that small long snout, and exposed lugs. I personally am divided on which one I like the best. Skylark wires have that 60's custom look, while caddy wires are the traditional lowrider look.

I had to look those up, they look beautiful. Skylark's are classic for Rivs. I'd email or call hobbycar and see what they'd say. They might pass you on to tru-spoke. They're on a lot of Rivs, so they must fit.

Great info, thanks! I've been looking at the scarebird stuff, but having the axles turned kinda put me off, I didn't want to go that deep in on the car. I was considering doing just the front, but I understand it's chevy truck rotors. I was concerned about wheel fitment after the changeover. I picked up a 68 mustang in Acton several years ago. Got it from a older gentleman that was moving to Utah I believe. He was far into some foothills, about 4 dirt roads deep. I remember he opened the trunk, and a cat jumped out. Only it wasn't a cat, it was a genuine desert rat. I thought it was pretty funny. Nice scenery in Acton.

I'd like to know more about the brakes also. I eventually want to do a 4 wheel disc setup. The front are scarebird, are the rear also? How did the fit on the axles go? I was told the flange has to be turned down with the scarebird setup. How did the wheels fit? Are they still buick, or chevy truck?

Great info about the steering boxes. Thank you!

I reconditioned my power window motors today actually. They're easy to do, and really simple. Mine were heavily coated in black enamel paint from the factory, I think to seal the seams. The hardest part of the job was chipping the paint off the end cap and screw heads. The screws are 1/4" head, and not tight at all. They run the full length of the motor, and go into the gear-head. I pulled them, and the gear-head pulls off. Once off, you'll see the brushes and communicator on the armature. They're attached to a flat circuit board held in place by two clips at each side of the motor case. It just lifts up. The brush that's closest to the outside edge of the case is attached to the case on a short wire. Remove the two brush springs (you'll need small needle nose pliers), lift up the board, and pull it towards the narrow side of the case, and then you can pull out that brush. Once it's out, you'll have enough wire slack that you can lift the board over the armature and pull it to the side. Once it's out of the way, you can pull the armature out. It has bronze bushings in the case ends, and mine were bone dry. I used some very fine sandpaper (about 1000, and 1500 grit) and polished the communicator. I also cleaned the gaps between the sections of the comm (very gently). I used some Mobil 1 grease on the end of the shaft, and dropped the armature back in. Then just reverse what you did. Once you see it, it'll all make sense. I then greased the area where the bushing sits (you'll probably see wear marks on the shaft). I used q-tips to clean out the end of the gear-head, where the shaft rest. There's a small bronze bushing in there, it's worth fishing it out, and putting grease on it. The gear-head goes back on easy. I also did the power seat motor, and gearbox. I'm glad I did, because they were dry too. The original grease seems to turn into a glue, and needs to be completely cleaned out. I had to use lacquer thinner. It was bad enough to glue the solenoid in place in the gearbox. I also had hardened original grease in my window tracks, and window channel rubber that was falling apart. Just a heads up, that the weather striping might need to be replaced. 50 yr old cars!

The lift snapping open gave me a nice welt on my palm. It seems like once it's fully open, there's no tension on the spring. I locked it in place just to make it easier to reinstall the motor later.

Hi Ed, the build date is 03C, body number is FB21681. My windows are press in, and the door hinge bolts are accessible from the outside.

I'll have to replace all my window channel liners. The desert is hard on rubber. The front channel is two pieces. It takes a slightly narrower piece at the vent window (custom made for Riviera), and a 1/2" by 1/2" rubber U-channel for the lower channel. The top part is advertised for the vent window, but the bottom part was a guessing game. One place says it's 7/16" wide, and slightly taller. But I measured a piece of my old one (original riveted on the guide) and it's 1/2". The channel I bought was listed for Dodges. The rear glass channel takes a glue in mohair tape. It seems to be sold in rolls, and you glue it in and cut to fit. I confirmed material thickness at 1/16th inch. My 64's glass is pressed into the bracket with glass setting tape. I confirmed its thickness at 1/32nd inch. I'm assuming the rear quarter windows is the same. Confirmed the glass is the same thickness. I'll document what it takes to get this stuff installed in a couple of weeks.

I was able to remove the regulators this weekend, and thought I'd document what I discovered. I had issues with the door skin bolts spinning instead of coming loose. If the bolts are pulled to the edge of the skin, they'll grab and you can remove the nuts. A swivel ratcheting 3/8 box end makes quick work of them. There's one at the front edge of the door, I had to open the door and get it from the outside. To get the glass out, I had to completely loosen the rear guide channel. There's a 2" flat guide at the top mid-rear inside door edge that also stops the window from lifting out (there's two other stops, they're obvious). I couldn't find a way to remove it (glass was in the way), so it was easiest to move the channel. It's all 7/16 bolts. My glass is pressed in, it tried pulling out of the base, so it's better to hold it by the bottom. It's possible to reach the regulator bolts with a open end wrench, if your regulator is stuck in the up position. I had to remove the vent window assembly to get the regulator out. It's extremely easy to remove. It was easiest to just remove all the window related stuff. Mine needs new channel liners, so it makes sense. Attached is a pic showing where you can run a bolt into the regulator gear, and lock it from turning. (pic is the backside of regulator) My 64 had factory holes, not sure about others. It will move a little, but nothing drastic. I put a nut on the backside, but it's probably not necessary. I pulled the regulator, and put it on the ground. There is positively spring pressure on the regulator. It's not super strong, it can be moved by hand. But I found it's strong enough to give you a good pinch.