jsgun

I really like the color matched dash and rear deck panel.

I am absolutely not a wiring guru, but i've had to learn a lot to fix the wiring on my 64. It's not that bad to learn. These cars are really simple, and the components are simple. My 92 corvette, is not simple and i'm honestly terrified of the wiring on that car.

It's been serious lengthened for some weird reason. Also, they added a different reverse lockout. The whole shifter cover plate is gone too. I suspect someone modified a old hurst shift to fit the car. They may have had to modify the trans tunnel to fit it. If this was a 6 or 8k car, i'd be more tolerant of it. But at 15k, no way.

Noticed the warped driver's door card, and the steering column chrome painted black. To me, two more indicators that the windshield is leaking. The chrome will get pits (the reason for the painted chrome) and the door card is pressed cardboard so it absorbs some water. Note the hole at the arm rest near the window switches. I'd want to look at the floors, and even pull the top inside windshield trim off to see what's under it. If it was 3 or 4k cheaper, I wouldn't be that concerned. But at that price, it better be solid metal.

If it needs a fuse box, then the windshield is leaking, and it's leaking because of rust-out. Had that problem on mine. Had to replace the whole fuse block with a custom built part. It was not easy.

That's been my experience. The belts on my old ford tended to glaze over after a bit. I suspect from overheating the belts. Desert heat is hard on rubber.

The color on that 65, matches my envy perfectly. I've seen a couple of bulletbirds in traffic around here. They are so radically different looking than modern traffic... they might as well be hovering with a martian at the wheel. I'm not surprised that several members here are into them, as they were in the same market just on the opposite extremes.

I wonder if it's a test line? Why is a pontiac behind a buick? I can't identify the white car in front of the buick, but I wonder if it's a mid size olds. The techs are wearing white aprons too, which is odd.

Love the bumpers on that concept car. Shame it never saw daylight, that would have been an interesting car.

I had suspected they were body alignment post, from when the body was put together at the factory. Or possibly for hanging the body to drop on the frame.

I was shopping for a Thunderbird before I bought my Riv. I decided to go Riv instead, because the styling is more sophisticated, and a borderline muscle car. It's almost like a precursor to what the Chevelle, GTO, and Cutlass would become. I still would like to own a Thunderbird, because I like that extreme spaceship, concept car type styling. I've always heard the electricals are a nightmare on 60's T-birds, but i'm ok with reengineering that as needed. Around here, the 61-63 was fairly expensive and the 64 and later were considerably cheaper. But now they're really increasing in price.

Ran Pertronix distributor in a mustang. It replaced a Crane CD box and distributor. Started faster and seemed to be more "crisp" for the lack of a better term. I've put a module in my 64, but don't have any road time yet. I had a MSD box go bad on me years ago. I tried to diagnose it, and found the internet complaining that in the past 10 years or more that they've been built with the cheapest parts by the cheapest labor. Real shame, when mine worked, it worked really well, very strong. I suspect its the capacitors inside that dry out and fail. Replace those with better quality parts, and it'll probably last a life time.

Plan on adding them to my 64. I sourced some lock motors, switches, and lock rods from 90's GM cars at the local pick-a-part. I haven't installed them yet, they fell down to much lower on the list of stuff to do. I figured out I can make a bracket from 1" wide angle aluminum from Lowes, and mount it to the motor's 2 screws closest to the door frame. Then bolt that bracket to the door. The lock rods are different sizes, but i've found sheet metal lock collars that will clip them together. I may have to bend the edge of the door brace to clear, but the rods line right up. Switches will go in the door panel, low down under the arm rest so they can't be tapped with a coat hanger wire.

67 MC, 65 Chevy brake lines (not bolted down yet), 64 original booster. Lines had to be "interwoven" together to get them off the fenderwell. Took a lot of bending to decrease the radius of the circle too. It was not a direct bolt in. 65 Chevy MC lines meeting stock junction block for front, rear line on right going into 90 degree angle and adapter. This is the elusive "cup seal" that fits between the MC and the booster. Without this there is a constant vacuum leak and no power brakes. P.O. drove this car over 200 miles with no power brakes and rough running engine. I bought it from "Booster Dewey Exchange", also known as "Power Brake Booster Exchange". It isn't on their site, had to call them. $50 counting shipping. Only source for them, as far as I know.

Carl, Sorry, it's not my site. I found it some time ago when I was trying to figure out my dual chamber MC conversion. I kept drums, just converted to dual MC using a 67 drum/drum MC. I still have my stock 64 booster. I don't know of a way to externally tell which brand the booster is, but when you pull the MC, it'll be very obvious if it has the shallow or deep hole. The plunger coming out of the booster will be as long as the studs for the MC. I bought the wrong one at first, the plunger hole is right at the top of the assembly. The 67 MC fit perfectly, zero issue mating to the booster. The brake lines were a challenge, but I went with stainless lines so they were difficult to bend. I bought a pair of coiled lines for a 65 Chevy, and the front line went into the original 64 junction block. I put a plug in the port going to the rear line in the block. The rear line from the MC went into a 90 degree angle fitting, and then into the 64 stainless rear line. I can get fitting sizes listed if you want.

http://www.1964buick.com/resto_logs/dual_master/1964_Wildcat_dual_master_cylinder.htm I had found this site when I converted my single MC to dual. He goes into detail about the 67 booster not fitting. When I did my MC conversion, I also replaced all the lines with stainless steel kit, and used SS lines for a 65 chevy for between the MC and distribution block. It might be worthwhile to see if you can find some that will fit whatever block you use. For my drum car, I tried using the 65 chevy block, but it put the right side line right into the steering box. Went back to the original 64 block, and plugged the rear port. Then i used a angle adapter to run the line straight down from the MC to the frame, then to the rear. I can post pics if it helps.

I picked up "RIV4747" for mine, I was surprised I was able to get that plate in CA. I have a pair of "Irv White Buick" license plate frames, and a keychain too, from about 64 with the tiki (or comic book) font on them. Got extremely lucky finding those.

I see you got a tiger in your tank. I like that you kept the used car lot tag on the trunk too

ok, this makes perfect sense that it's the same piece on both sides. I could have swore I broke the driver's side window, not the passenger side. I'll check out my quarter windows, I suspect they have the same orientation. I realized I need to replace my passenger side window, while holding it up to the light to read the markings, I found there's a series of large scratches right in the center. I suspect its from rubbing the door without any weather stripping. The stuff that happens to a car over 50 years... I appreciate the info!

Check and see if you have that metal and rubber gasket piece between the booster and master. I had the same problem, mine was missing. I can post pics of mine if you don't.

That's how GM G and B body cars have their brakes too. The caliper sits in between a pair of flat faced tabs that hold the caliper from rotating with the rotor. The guide pins probably carry some force too, but not the brunt of it. Good info on this thread, I was considering this conversion but decided to keep the stock drums for now.

Rivieras seem to have some quirks, wanted to make sure. I shattered a window accidently a couple years ago, I mistakenly thought it was the driver's side when in fact it was the passenger's side.

I'm putting my side glass back into my 64. I seem to have my windows mixed up from side to side. Am I correct to assume the tiny label in the corner of the glass faces towards the outside?

Saving this info. I have aftermarket aluminum wheels, and the triple whitewall would look perfect with them.

That was the original color combination of my 64 actually. Interesting to see what it would have looked like new. Never thought about the Pacific Northwest. SoCal is great for the variety of cars available, but everyone is into cars, and knows the value of what they have so things are at a premium.