jsgun
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Posts posted by jsgun
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I'm interested in the QA1's because you have some control over setting the ride height. I want a slight nose up look for my 64. I think it used to be called the "speed boat rake". BCFab makes a bolt in bag kit for these cars, was thinking of heading that direction after I have it back on the road.
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Enjoying this build, thanks for posting pics and descriptions. I was looking at the QA1, interesting that the adjustment knob gets buried like that. I've been also looking at Viking dual adjustable shocks too, I suspect the adjuster gets buried too.
The vent window rubber is a PIA on the driver's side. I bought from a reputable company, and the left vent rubber took a lot of trimming to fit. The right just fell into place with no trimming needed. I don't think my vent frame was damaged in any way, so I suspect the mold isn't that great for the driver's side rubber. The rest of the weather stripping went in easy.
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My dash was covered with white naugahyde, with inch thick foam under that, all over the original dash pad. The over stuffed look is traditional for low riders, but i'm wanting to go back to the crisp look of the original. I'm thinking black alcantara for the dash, the rear window deck, and the headliner. Like the look of the material, and I need something non-reflective on the dash here in the desert.
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26 minutes ago, telriv said:
Try another gasket.
is it ok to stack two gaskets?
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I got mine from ebay.
Over time, i've found out knowing the right terminology for something is the key to actually being able to find it online. Spent more time trying to find the names of specific terminals than actually installing them.
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I often wonder if the MPG issues are from all the ethanol in gas now. My 92 corvette only gets 13mpg, and I go easy on it. Everything in tune, passes smog easily. My 67 mustang only got about 9mpg with a 302, but it was 3.55 gears and I wasn't easy on it.
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I replaced my timing chain cover with a new reproduction one. I'm running a FlowKooler water pump that uses a billet impeller. It's dragging on the cover hard enough it won't turn. Has anyone used this combination? I'm thinking i'll have to file down the edges of the impeller or something.
Is it safe to run two or even three gaskets on the water pump?
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I'm in process of adding them to my 64. I'm using 90's GM lock motors (it's a fast spinning motor attached to a rack and pinion), and I think the lock switches are from a 80's Cadillac. Parts sourced from a local pick-a-part. I'll have to make a mounting bracket for the lock motor, and find an adapter to join the two rods side by side. I considered modifying the window switch plates to accept the lock switches, but instead i'm mounting them down low on the bottom sides of the arm rest, so they can't be pressed with a coat hanger wire to get into the car. Plan is to keep them full time live, but I may change them to switched power.
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I would advise against trying to pull the glass out of the channel if it's taped in. My early 64 had press fit glass, and it was all loose. I retaped it, and the fit was very tight. But over time, they've came loose again. Absolute PIA. So much so, that I bought another pair of door glass with solid attached channels.
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I have one of the guide arms, it appears to be billet. It's a very nice piece. I lost my original washer, and had to improvise, but it assembles pretty easy.
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On 8/14/2021 at 6:32 AM, 1965rivgs said:
The manufacturer was Arvin? Seems the manufacturer, and not the distributer, was the problem?
Tom
Arvinode was the style of the muffler that was reproduced by Waldron's. Interesting design, it was basically a straight through muffler, like a glass pack, but it had a long cone shaped piece in the center to reduce the droning harmonics that glass packs often have. It was only used by Ford for 65-66 on the mustangs. I think it was discontinued because it was too loud. Waldron's copy of it sounded great, but it didn't last long at all before it fell apart internally. I've seen their Riviera exhaust, but i'm hesitant to consider it, based on my issues with the mustang exhaust.
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On 8/12/2021 at 1:29 PM, 1965rivgs said:
Go to Waldrons website and you will find the original style muffler in steel and stainless in varying "tones"
Tom
Side question about Waldrons... Have you had good experiences with their mufflers?
I ask because years ago I bought a arvinode exhaust system for a mustang from them. The mufflers lasted about a year, and fell apart internally and started to rattle badly. Wasn't sure if I got a bad pair, or if that's part for the course there.
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Anytime I see something selling for way over the typical market value, I immediately suspect money laundering. This is what, a 30K car normally?
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My admittedly pessimistic view is that a large number of people made a large amount of money because of covid. Jeff Bezos himself has gained 86+ billion dollars since the beginning of 2020. The people that made all of that money are looking at ways to make even more. Currently across the world, housing cost is going sky high, because investment funds are buying up real estate over market value with the idea of turning large future profits. I believe they've also focused on classic cars as an investment. I don't think prices are going up from car enthusiast buying what they love, so much as it is newly wealthy stock holders are looking to increase their portfolios.
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I don't feel so bad about my exhaust anymore then. P.O. had a custom made lowrider style pipes, it's 2" pipe to the mufflers (short glasspacks at the center X) then goes into 1 3/4. I figured it was choking the hell out of the motor that small, but it might be ok after all.
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Interesting, didn't know that could be done. I'll eventually have to replace my rear seal, I'm dreading it. It went dry while it was parked for the last 14yrs.
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Used a Mityvac when I replaced my lines, made it pretty easy to bleed the lines. Took a while, but it was easy.
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What's the CFM of the carb? They seem to like 725 CFM and larger Under carbureted would make it run too lean.
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10 hours ago, telriv said:
Steve,
The balancer bolt in most cases is 1 1/8th. inch, but I have seen them also at 1" on untouched originals.
Tom T.
I appreciate it, thanks
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What's the socket size for the balancer bolt on a 64 425?
Getting ready to R&R my plastic timing gear, and I don't seem to have a socket that fits that bolt. Can't find any info about the size in the repair manual either.
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Here in the desert, we have tumble weeds in the fall, they can really wipe out a radiator. I planned on putting steel mesh on the backside of the grill, and in the openings on the bumper. Farther away those long sticks from the radiator, the better.
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12 hours ago, Turbinator said:
Part of the equation in the cooling system is the radiator cap. I was using a 16 lb pressure Stant radiator cap on my 63 Riv. When I had my original radiator recore the radiator man told a 6 lb cap should be used instead of 16 lb. Radiator man said 16lb is too much pressure on old “iron.” I put the 6 lb pressure radiator cap on and the car runs cooler. ( I have water temp gauge).
Could your leaks be from too much pressure then? I hadn't heard about the cap being too high pressure, interesting.
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I'm shopping for one right now too. TA appears to sells the exact same set as the gold linked one. As far as i've determined, those are the only two available. I believe the gold one is a roller link version.
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Heard of his channel, but that was the first video i've seen from it. Pretty entertaining. I hope he flips the car instead of parting it out. Needs some work, but it looks pretty complete. Wouldn't mind owning a boattail.
1963 project
in Buick Riviera
Posted · Edited by jsgun (see edit history)
Years ago, there was a 65 Riv on the LA CL that had coilovers on all 4 corners. I wish I had checked the car out.
I did my vents a 4 or 5 years ago, so my memory is hazy on it. Seems like it was generally easy. Basically, the thick chromed leading edge is the main part, everything else is attached to it. There's a phillips head screw at the peak, buried under the felt channel, and then two large phillips head screws holding the sheet metal part to the main chrome part. The only thing that stuck out to me, was during reassembly, it was easist to push the peak together, put that screw in, and then squeeze it together and put the bottom two large screws in. I must have had the driver's side apart 20 times grinding on the rubber in different places to clearance enough for the window to close all the way.
FWIW, any GM power window motor from about 58 on will bolt on. I installed 58-64 impala motors on mine. I left the lock screw out of the shaft where it meets the motor, because it seems to walk back and forth during rotation. I cobbled together switches and modified my switch panels for them, but haven't ran wiring yet. Also, that vent window shaft is soft metal, and can be twisted to clock the window in relation to the input. I used two crescent wrenches to do it.
Another edit. The weather stripping in the channels is a glue in fabric backed felt. I used 3M yellow glue on it, it seems to be holding well. Used 3M black on the parts around the top, for the foam. You've built cars before, it's probably standard stuff for a GM. My last car was a 67 mustang, it might as well came from a different planet compared to the Riviera.