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1935 Dodge Van

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  1. I don't think we will ever be sure about the original veracity of the assembly of our Commercial Cars. Especially ones made before 1935 or so. I know of cars built at the end of the model year that had parts from the next year installed on them. However from about 1935 onward when bodies became more one piece steel and less coach built Ive seen much less "odd" parts used in them. (I have seen many trucks using "cadet" visors over the windshield long after they had been discarded by autos. )I think trucks from 1/2ton upwards were used to make money and not like the glitzy RAMs we see around today with the Misses taking the kids shopping. I don't think a company would look twice at a truck's assembly as long as it did the job.
  2. As already mentioned,all those master cylinders in those years had a top plate with,I believe,6 bolts holding it down. The filler was originally a tall vent thing with a drooping vent cover. Not many trucks or cars still have them in place.
  3. And sometimes now the alcohol in modern gasoline has destroyed the red ,or black,rubber "needle" on the needle valve and you will have to replace it. Been there,done that.
  4. I went to Mac's Ford parts on the internet and they have 4 varieties. 3 hole and 4 hole and left and right. All around $35. I used one in a '35 Dodge van. Who can see inside a door??
  5. Regulators almost exactly the same are repro'd by various FORD outfits such as Mac's in Tonawanda N.Y.
  6. Yes they run around the belt moulding staying about 1/2"/3/4"? away from the edge of the moulding in a "straight line". (Basically what ever the guy decided to apply to your car that day. They were paid piece work by the way. From what I've seen they were pretty much left on their own but the stripes do follow a pattern from car to car.) At the front the stripes "jump" the front door gap onto the hood ,still being the same width apart as on the car proper,then they immediately start to narrow up to follow the narrowing of the moulding. I think close inspection of your car will pretty well confirm what I'm saying.
  7. They are 2 1/8" stripes that one goes under the door handle and one goes over about equal distance between the door handle escutcheon and the top/bottom of the belt moulding. They go right around the body like that. On the hood the bottom stripe stays straight and the top stripe slowly slopes down to meet it at the end of the hood side moulding stopping about a 1/2" from the end. Don't forget these stripes were put on by hand! and were never perfect. No two cars were EXACTLY alike. Good luck.
  8. You have to decide if you're an antiquer or if you're a hot rodder. There is no inbetween. It would be a shame to see a "humpback" hot rodded. They are quite rare. I would go out of my way to see an original Dodge humpback but wouldn't get up in the morning for a hot rod. And as a personal opinion I think hot rodding is a lazy man's way out of a restoration. My 2cents.
  9. 1922 Dodges are not in my repair history but your generator must show a slight discharge at idle. This is because the generator has been disconnected from your battery by the cutout. Yours does not seem to be doing that. Are your cutout points stuck? Later generators which I am familiar with have a 3rd brush that is slid back and forth to set the top current output of the generator. Usually 20 amps although I set mine to 15 amps and just drive further each time I use the vehicle. Less wear and tear on the generator and the battery. Your generator is working and the battery must be good or the engine wouldn't start.Look for poor grounding at the battery and at the engine to ground ie the return path to the battery ground cable. Sometimes on old cars the build of rust etc. causes a poor grounding between engine electrics and the battery/generator circuit. A good cure is a flex ground cable from engine bell housing and frame nearest the battery. Which I take it is below the front seat? The 'farting' as mentioned could be carbon built up on the vales and piston tops. A good upper engine cleaner the kind you pour down the carb whilst the engine is running must cure it. My 2cents.
  10. Believe it or not back in the 20s green was still in use as a stop light or running light on the rear of a car. I have a STOP light like your light that lights up green. Its heavy glass like yours but a rectangle. It does not say DODGE just STOP. I'm sitting at my barbers right now but lll try to put a photo of it up on the post.
  11. As I remember my 31 PA, the vacuum control brought the distributor back to the retard position when the engine was shut off. In fact Chrysler referred to the unit as the "timing retard control" in their booklets. I understood that it brought it back to retard so the hand crank could be safely used. Then as the engine caught and vacuum appeared, the distributor spun around to full advance. At least the advance position that the engine was designed to run at during idle. Then any advance after that was done using the weights in the base of the distributor. This is how my 31 PA operated. Just my 2 cents.
  12. Usually the reason they are stating right and left is because the cylinders are "stepped". That means the front and rear pistons are not the same size. So they are "handed" right and left. You seem to have done everything I would have done. The spring inside has to be centered on the rubber cup. You should "wet" the cylinder wall and cups,master or wheel, as you assemble them. The pistons should have their outside surfaced wetted as well. If everything is not wetted there is a possibility of "chipping" the rubber cup and it will leak forever. If everything seems to finally settle down,it's a good idea to apply the brakes at least once a month or sooner to keep the cylinders and rubbers wetted. If the rubber cups and cylinders go dry you can get the aforementioned chipping. I think our braking systems were meant to be used nearly every day and not left for long periods of time. This kept the cups and cylinder walls wet and everything slid smoothly and kept sealed.
  13. I was supplying my car for a movie once and the movie company convinced a guy to have his car painted as a taxi in that yellow and black at their cost. He left it that way and I believe had it used in another movie as a taxi. It may be how this one got this way.
  14. Gears can be cut for almost anything. I live in Ontario Canada and there are several shops around that will cut a gear using yours as a copy. I recently needed a gear for a 30 year old doctor's examination chair and had a shop in Oshawa cut one for me for $300. They are generally called "machine shops" in the Yellow Pages and the guy told me he always saving old equipment from the junk pile.
  15. Leno has one of those gold colored 1963 Ghia versions. I don't know what happened to the this early Plymouth.
  16. I had a 1931 Plymouth with sidemounts and I stumbled on the fact that the locks were not specific to 1931 Plymouths. They were supplied by an outside supplier. I think I have some paperwork on them and I'll try to find it in my files and post it.
  17. OK here goes from what I've learned over the years of owning and restoring a 1935 KCL: The truck you are thinking of buying does not have an original box on it from what I can tell. The headlights are off something else. The dash instruments are from the 1933 Dodge car and indicates this truck is an early production. Later 1934 KC/L trucks would have a dash with large round holes for the instruments which were shared with the Airflow series of trucks. It should indeed have a T5 coded engine. A letter and $25 to the Chrysler Archives would get you the build ticket and it would give you a wealth of info including the original code for the engine (which could have been T12 but is unlikely.) The front fenders of ALL 1933,'34 and '35 1/2 ton trucks use the front fenders from the 1933 car and are somewhat easy to acquire. The rear fenders are UNIQUE to the 3 years of trucks and are impossible to find. You would have to repair what you get. The front bumpers are repro'd. The headlight stantions appear to be correct. The crankhole cover and the Ram rad cap are available. The hubcaps are most likely the "flat" 1933 car style and are out there. The windshield frame and the running boards are repro'd as well as the rubber for the boards. Anything else please ask I might be able to put you in the right direction. You're looking at $20K to restore it,YOUR labor being a large part of it.
  18. I was rereading my post and your reply and I just want to make it clear that you would have the jack at or near the far "open" end of the door. Not up close to the car and it's hinges.
  19. Believe it or not the manufacturers just put a block of wood in the open door and close it to "spring" the door in the right direction to make it fit. There are actual books out there that show you where to put the piece of wood. It's usually put in the opposite end of the door to the part that won't close "tight". The window is rolled at least half way down and the door "closed". It of course won't close but this bends the "close" part of the door away from the car opening and when the door is closed now,voila, it fits like a glove. I have seen this done on the line at GM Canada. This is how they used to get trunk lids and hoods to close perfectly. I would assume some variation on this might fix your door. My best guess is to open the door about half way and place a piece of wood,with perhaps a piece of cloth wrapped around it, on top of a jack and with the window rolled about half way down, jack the door up SLOWLY. Do not over do it as springing the door down again would be next to impossible. The Plymouth is all steel including the jamb and door. If then the door dovetail aligns but the door is sprung from the opening at one end or another,the above springing of the door would fix that.
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