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1935 Dodge Van

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About 1935 Dodge Van

  • Birthday 09/11/1944

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  1. I don't think we will ever be sure about the original veracity of the assembly of our Commercial Cars. Especially ones made before 1935 or so. I know of cars built at the end of the model year that had parts from the next year installed on them. However from about 1935 onward when bodies became more one piece steel and less coach built Ive seen much less "odd" parts used in them. (I have seen many trucks using "cadet" visors over the windshield long after they had been discarded by autos. )I think trucks from 1/2ton upwards were used to make money and not like the glitzy RAMs we see around today with the Misses taking the kids shopping. I don't think a company would look twice at a truck's assembly as long as it did the job.
  2. As already mentioned,all those master cylinders in those years had a top plate with,I believe,6 bolts holding it down. The filler was originally a tall vent thing with a drooping vent cover. Not many trucks or cars still have them in place.
  3. And sometimes now the alcohol in modern gasoline has destroyed the red ,or black,rubber "needle" on the needle valve and you will have to replace it. Been there,done that.
  4. I went to Mac's Ford parts on the internet and they have 4 varieties. 3 hole and 4 hole and left and right. All around $35. I used one in a '35 Dodge van. Who can see inside a door??
  5. Regulators almost exactly the same are repro'd by various FORD outfits such as Mac's in Tonawanda N.Y.
  6. Yes they run around the belt moulding staying about 1/2"/3/4"? away from the edge of the moulding in a "straight line". (Basically what ever the guy decided to apply to your car that day. They were paid piece work by the way. From what I've seen they were pretty much left on their own but the stripes do follow a pattern from car to car.) At the front the stripes "jump" the front door gap onto the hood ,still being the same width apart as on the car proper,then they immediately start to narrow up to follow the narrowing of the moulding. I think close inspection of your car will pretty well confirm what I'm saying.
  7. They are 2 1/8" stripes that one goes under the door handle and one goes over about equal distance between the door handle escutcheon and the top/bottom of the belt moulding. They go right around the body like that. On the hood the bottom stripe stays straight and the top stripe slowly slopes down to meet it at the end of the hood side moulding stopping about a 1/2" from the end. Don't forget these stripes were put on by hand! and were never perfect. No two cars were EXACTLY alike. Good luck.
  8. You have to decide if you're an antiquer or if you're a hot rodder. There is no inbetween. It would be a shame to see a "humpback" hot rodded. They are quite rare. I would go out of my way to see an original Dodge humpback but wouldn't get up in the morning for a hot rod. And as a personal opinion I think hot rodding is a lazy man's way out of a restoration. My 2cents.
  9. 1922 Dodges are not in my repair history but your generator must show a slight discharge at idle. This is because the generator has been disconnected from your battery by the cutout. Yours does not seem to be doing that. Are your cutout points stuck? Later generators which I am familiar with have a 3rd brush that is slid back and forth to set the top current output of the generator. Usually 20 amps although I set mine to 15 amps and just drive further each time I use the vehicle. Less wear and tear on the generator and the battery. Your generator is working and the battery must be good or the engine wouldn't start.Look for poor grounding at the battery and at the engine to ground ie the return path to the battery ground cable. Sometimes on old cars the build of rust etc. causes a poor grounding between engine electrics and the battery/generator circuit. A good cure is a flex ground cable from engine bell housing and frame nearest the battery. Which I take it is below the front seat? The 'farting' as mentioned could be carbon built up on the vales and piston tops. A good upper engine cleaner the kind you pour down the carb whilst the engine is running must cure it. My 2cents.
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