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Too Fuzzy

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Posts posted by Too Fuzzy

  1. The plot thickens.... ,

    it is impossible to remove brake line flare nuts from the fittings. Flare nut wrench is no good, he’ll vice grips are no good.

    Left side brake line from the 3-way to the hose connection looks like it’s also on borrowed time.

    Right rear brake caliper is a ball of rust and doubt it’s even functioning. It looks like it’s time to drop the fuel tank, fab new brake lines from the 3-way ( if I can get them off) back to to both rear brakes, new hoses and replace the impossible to find right caliper. Oh, should I do something with that fist size hole in the muffler also?

     This car has a hard 45k on the odo...

    Larry

     

     

  2. Greetings to all,

     

    My last post was May 2017 at which time I was starting to replace hoses on my ‘89 8v early block. Yes, the car sat for a year but in my defense I acquired a John Deere 2240 for the homestead. I spent the winter not restoring but we’ll call refurbishing the tractor. I went back to work on the TC last week and and completed all the belts, hoses, timing belt, water pump, both pan gaskets and all 3 shaft seals. I fabricated a crank sprocket puller. It was ugly but it worked, pulling from all 5 screws. The car started fine and idles good but when I was pulling the car out of the garage I noticed a large puddle of fluid just forward of the right rear wheel and the associated brake warning light. Of course, I’m thinking motor oil, the car’s telling me  brake fluid. Duh! Of course it’s brake fluid!  The steel brake line, right side just forward of the connection to the most forward rubber brake hose is rusted thru. This line snakes behind the fuel tank to a 3-way fitting on the left side.   Upside,fuel gage is reading empty?. Really, any other better ideas than to drop the tank and change the whole line and are these lines double flared?

    Thanks,

    Larry

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  3. Thanks guys for the quick response. The car manufactured date shows 3/89 and there is a block-off plate on the block just behind the water pump (good info). I 'll follow the forums historical data for early block part #'s.

    My enthusiasm is waning for the crank seal. The procedure is what I was hoping for but the tool may be a problem. I'll have to study on that for a while before I start ripping and tearing. In the meantime I'll get some parts on the way. As a matter of prudence I checked all the oil pan bolts- nice and snug. It doesn't mean I don't have a pan leak at the corner of the pan seal however.

    The valve cover also looks good. Any other common points of oil leakage from the passenger aft side of the engine?

     

    Thanks

     

  4. Greetings to all,

    Call it a personality disorder but for me one project always leads into another "as long as I'm in here".... While flushing and changing all the hoses I noted a really good oil leak from the front crank area. This oil leak blows back onto the inner axle boot and is slung back to the fire wall in such a way that it I actually thought I had a cracked axle boot. I've twice accomplished an intensified inspection of the boot, finding no issues. So that brings me to replacing the front crank seal and ..... "as long as I'm here", the timing belt. A couple of questions, as long as I'm there, the timing belt, tensioner, water pump and what else should be replace while I'm in the area? The maintenance manual shows a special tool for removing the crank seal. Can this seal be removed  in place otherwise? Any recommendations for tensioning the timing belt without a special tool other than snug but not too snug?

    Specs= 1989   2.2l  8v  auto

    Any procedural tips are alays welcome.

    Thanks,

    Too Fuzzy

     

  5. Reaper1,

    Thanks for the reply. Yes, HVAC controls work. I pulled the left front tire and crawled around for about an hour or so. I  finally found an open nipple on the turbo just left of the air cleaner turbo inlet hose. I pulled the manual out again and found the hose depicted in chapter 11 fig 12 - cleaner assemblies and yes it connects to the turbo.The end of the hose is crusty and dirty. It looks like it hasn't been connected for a long while. Scratch one more problem...

    Thanks again,

    Larry

     

  6. Greetings,

    I've been previously posting under "Getting another TC on the Road" however thought I should start another thread for my questions for making them searchable to other forum members. To update, I thought the car some what of a dog especially up hill. That and an intermittent starting issue were my two biggest concerns. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator for my start issue. As a matter of precaution I didn't like the "looks" of the IAC sensor and electrical connector, replacing both of them. Damn thing runs like a new car! Really! My gas mileage went from 16.5 to 21.5 and plenty of pickup now. Its become a very nice daily driver with the exception of the (very) intermittent start issue. Last weekend I cleaned the throttle body and AIS motor. Idle is much better now. I guess we'll see if that fixes my start issue.

     

    I need help identifying a vacuum line I have found disconnected. I had no luck finding it in my maintenance manual. Please note the attached pics. Pic "A" shows the air box removed and the port noted. Pic "B" shows the box and line I'm referencing. To explain, the line exits the air box and 90's to a "T" conn.  One line continues  to a "Y" conn where it splits one line to the cruise control and one line through a check valve  to the intake manifold. Back at the "T" the bottom line 90's under the air box and disappears. Any ideas where that line might go? From the looks of the end the hose hasn't been connected for  while. Your next thought is, "why the hell doesn't  he look under the removed air box?" The air box really isn't removed. I just...just borrowed the pic :)

     

    As always , thanks for the help!

     

    Larry

     

     

  7. Greetings,

    I've been previously posting under "Getting another TC on the Road" however thought I should start another thread for my questions for making them searchable to other forum members. To update, I thought the car some what of a dog especially up hill. That and an intermittent starting issue were my two biggest concerns. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator for my start issue. As a matter of precaution I didn't like the "looks" of the IAC sensor and electrical connector, replacing both of them. Damn thing runs like a new car! Really! My gas mileage went from 16.5 to 21.5 and plenty of pickup now. Its become a very nice daily driver with the exception of the (very) intermittent start issue. Last weekend I cleaned the throttle body and AIS motor. Idle is much better now. I guess we'll see if that fixes my start issue.

     

    I need help identifying a vacuum line I have found disconnected. I had no luck finding it in my maintenance manual. Please note the attached pics. Pic "A" shows the air box removed and the port noted. Pic "B" shows the box and line I'm referencing. To explain, the line exits the air box and 90's to a "T" conn.  One line continues  to a "Y" conn where it splits one line to the cruise control and one line through a check valve  to the intake manifold. Back at the "T" the bottom line 90's under the air box and disappears. Any ideas where that line might go? From the looks of the end the hose hasn't been connected for  while. Your next thought is, "why the hell doesn't  he look under the removed air box?" The air box really isn't removed. I just...just borrowed the pic :)

     

    As always , thanks for the help!

     

    Larry

     

     

  8. Happy Spring time!(?) gang,

    I haven't posted for a while. I put the car back in the barn for the winter only to drag it out for the first real snow storm of the year. Lot of nickle and dime repairs over the winter including a lot of electrical issues.  The car is becoming a reasonable daily driver but there is a fair bit of repairs left. I still have an intermittent starting issue ( see above) I think a fuel pressure regulator will probably fix it. I still have numerous electrical issues dealing with the radio ( inop ), antenna relay and related circuit and of course the convertible top. 3 days on the bench, the radio is shot. Who needs an antenna without a radio, right? A socket is a temp fix for the top issue. I can live with those issues for the short term. The 3 big issues: 1.) A new exhaust is probably in order based on the fist sized hole in the muffler. ( no biggie yet as I fit right in with my neighbors:)) I'll have some questions about that later. 2.) Right outer axle boot may have a pin hole ... maybe, nothing found. The mess slings like a cracked boot but the substance is more oily than greasy making me thing I have a power steering line leaking onto the boot... maybe. I'll chase that closer when the weather improves. 3.) My biggest problem is the lack of engine power. In general, the car's a dog especially up hill.  It feels like the turbo doesn't start to pull until 3300-3500 rpm indicated. If I hold at least that rpm or romp on it then the car is very responsive, even up hill.  BOV, waste gate, vacuum leak? So far I have not found any vacuum leaks. The car is a stock 8v. Any opinion is appreciated.

    Happy almost spring!

    Thanks,

    Larry

  9. I think your right. I traced one side forward and down to a valve that looks inline with a water line. The tough one to find was going forward through the firewall. That line was very short and very brittle. I guess I'll try to splice under the dash and feed new into the engine compartment. Good thing its 90F with 90% humidity...

     

    Thanks,

    Too Fuzzy  

  10. EmmettTC and list,

    Sorry, I've already set it into a hard top stand. I'll pick up the whole mess the same way and move it to the barn in the next day or two. When I do I'll snap a photo.

     

    I put about 50 miles on the car this morning, top down, while it was cool out. The car seems to run good. Looking over everything I notice the passenger side inner CV joint is slinging a small amount of grease. I guess that means the boot has a small crack or a small amount of grease left. Hmmm. (put it on the list). I was looking at vacuum line condition this morning.  The lines actually look good, no cracking and the material seems pliable. I did find a small plastic tube broke (very small in diameter). The line is located on the driver's side, runs along the main electrical harness. One end disappears under the battery tray. That side of the line is small  vacuum hose to a factory looking coupler. That side of this affair is good. The other side tracks along the right side of the brake components (m/c, etc.) then disappears through that mess of wire harness, vacuum line from the manifold, going underneath somewhere towards the fire wall. That side of the coupler is the plastic tube. I'd start by removing the batt tray to see what the line is connected to so I can get an idea of where it goes. Accessing underneath the brake components will get real crappy real quick. Anybody have ideas before I start ripping and tearing?

     

    Too Fuzzy

     

  11. Well, a minor celebration here. We passed the state safety inspection and got the car registered! I'm legal to drive now.  I had to get the center brake light working before the inspection today. Dang! I had to remove the hard top to open the tonneau to remove the brake light. Well of course it wasn't a bulb issue. I had to solder one of the connections internal to the lamp assembly. Rigged up a sling for the hard top and hooked it to the bucket on my tractor where it still dangles.

    Two glitches on the trip to town and back. 1.) When leaving one of the fast food eateries, the car had a hard time starting. It acted as if it was trying to run on 1 or 2 cylinder or if it was really flooded.  It took 3 or 4 tries to get it running. When it started it fired right off as if nothing was wrong.  No other starting issues  2.) I lost the tach for 5 or 10 minutes on the way home. I was cruising at 70mph. No other issues were noted.

    I'll pull the engine codes and see if there is any clues there. I'm sure a fuel filter could be replaced at least precautionary. The car will get a dose of injector cleaner at the next fill up also.

    More to do, more to do....

     

    Too Fuzzy

     

  12. Being new at this retirement thing, I'm learning how to pace myself. I'm finding instead of spending 10 minutes in the morning with my coffee, an hour or so is becoming more the norm.

    I got the wiper arms bushed, new blades and the wiper system back in the car. I love it when a plan comes together ( for however long it lasts). I got through the biggest hold up this afternoon by getting the locking wheel lug nuts off. I will say I broke my favorite 13/16 socket in the process though. This will allow me to inspect, bleed, lube, and pack before the state safety inspection. I might have to turn off/cover/remove that anti lock brake light first though. I bought some high pressure fuel line for to replace the lines from the fire wall to the fuel regulator, cheap insurance. I was talking to my father about his Chrysler mini van that burnt to the ground and one of those lines had apparently had ruptured. Too bad because that vehicle went like stink.

    After I get this beast up and running I'll check into the spring tip. Thanks Twin Cam Fan!

    I love the size of the trunk in this car. I'm thinking I could get a little straw to put back there and take the chickens to town with me!

     

     

  13. The car was original to New York state. My father purchased the car in Las Vegas in 2000 and then moved in with me about 2 1/2 years ago. He brought that car and 6 others of various makes and years. The wife and I are now located in S.W. Missouri after 25 years in No. California. I'm recently retired. Fortunately I have a barn to store his cars and my 4 brit sports car projects.  Can you spell not enough time?

    The car is a 1989 Exotic Red with tan interior and the 2.2l 4 cy turbocharge motor with an automatic. The car shows a touch over 41k on the odometer. The body is straight as an arrow less some door dings. The interior is fair at best. The leather seats are dry, dry, dry.  I'll try to condition them at some point. Overall the car is in good shape and I'll hopefully turn it to a daily driver, tho I rarely make the 13 mile drive to town. I find my goats and chickens better company....

     

    Too Fuzzy

  14. Work continues, the dead short in the windshield wipers turned out to be a bent contact in the wiper motor "park" circuit. I disassembled the motor, repaired, cleaned and relubed and the motor seems to function normally. I'm currently waiting on link arm bushing before I reinstall the motor.

    I've resolved the parasitic battery drain issue. The drain was from the fuse #6 circuit. While looking at the trunk light I noted that the trunk lock mechanism was frozen/stuck in the open position. I mean who would know, right? With the 500 lbs trunk lid in the closed position I'd assume the lid was locked. put the key in, turn and pull the lid opens (obviously never locking). Forget the fact that the solenoid didn't work. Just another electrical glitch right? Trunk light is actuated off the lock/solenoid mechanism, so in the open position the light is on...even with the deck lid closed. I used some penetrating oil then white grease to the mechanism and all functions normally. The bonus is the solenoid now function electrically also! No more parasitic drain.

    I took the car out for a short drive (20 miles or so). The car seems to run good. Oil pressure, engine temps, braking and steering all seem good.

    The anti lock light is still an issue but I resolve that in time. Clearances are tight under the hood and the Wabco accum may not work without some mods. For now I'll wait for the Hydac accum or pursue the Le Baron brake mod route.

    I still need to get the locking lug nut off the wheels so I can inspect brake pads, wheels sensors, etc. I think with some tune up work Ill be registering the car in the next couple of weeks.

     

    Has any one made the Le Baron brake mod to their car?? I have a couple of question regarding the procedure and parts?

     

    Too Fuzzy

  15. Part II .....

    The plot thickens-I have no windshield wipers. When you turn on the wipers the 20a fuse immediately blows. I can see a maint manual with schematics is starting to become a necessity.

     

    Next question - Did the TC come with locking lug nuts? My wheels have Dodge/Chrysler style locking lug nut on each wheel and of course no key socket to be found.  

     

    Too Fuzzy

  16. Thanks for the info Digger914. Funny you should say to check the electric conns. While at the store today I bought a can of electrical contact cleaner. I'll get the tires off in the next couple of days to check the general condition of hoses, pads, rotors, etc. I'll flush and bleed the system.

    With the key on, engine off, the pump will run with every application of the brake pedal leading me to believe the accum is bad...

     

    Too Fuzzy

  17. Greetings to all,

    New to the forum and relatively new to the TC. Up till now my extra curricular car activities have been primarily British related. My 87 y o father has turned over to me an '89 TC with slightly over 40k on the odometer.  He's owned the car since 2000 and has put less than 5 - 6K on the car. In his defense, he drove another '89 TC for well over 100k with no issues, a '88 Daytona and little Chrysler mini van with the turbo charged 4 cylinder that went like stink till it burnt to the ground with a ruptured fuel line. Although this car hasn't been driven in several years it has been cleaned and started faithfully 3-4 times a week. I've resolved a check engine light with the repair of some wiring. I'm currently trouble shooting a parasitic battery drain issue. The batt will drain overnight if left connected. I've isolated the fault to fuse #6. I'll continue to t/s that issue. I, of course have a continuous amber anti lock brake light. My father says the light has always been on since he owned the car. Trouble shooting from the Reatta forums confirm at least a bad accumulator. No surprises there.     Question #1- I understand the STC2784 or the Hydac to be acceptable subs ( although tough to obtain), is that correct and is that the direction most are taking?   Question #2- I'm not opposed to the Le Baron brake mod but have some questions regarding the parts and some of the procedures.  I've read the Allpar.com article.Hemi Dude are you open to some PM questions?

    I'm sure I'll have more questions as I get into the process of getting this car back in tip-top shape. 

    Thanks,

    TooFuzzy  

     

     

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