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ColonelDan

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About ColonelDan

  • Birthday 11/17/1951

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  1. I don't know the answer to your question but I'd be interested in knowing. I once owned a 1941 Hudson business coupe. I was going to school in Kansas City in 1977 and lucked out in meeting Bernie Zigfried. He was one of the senior engineers at Hudson. In his retirement, he rebuilt Hudson engines. Only Hudson engines. I had him do mine. It would be nice to hit upon a situation like that with the Dodge. Good luck Daledon. I'll pay attention to any answers you get.
  2. Jim, A photo would help here and a little about your particular vehicle might grab the attention of someone who has the same vintage auto. Most seals I've seen are held in place by friction. They are pressed into a precisely machined recess in the casting. Removing them can be a little work and you will end up damaging, or destroying, it in the process so make sure you have a replacement on hand before you proceed.
  3. When I was a teen, I used a product called Alumseal. There is a sister product called Bronzseal made by the same company. I don't know the advantages of one over the other and I think I've used both with equal success. It worked great for me on all of the junkers I once drove. Its a container of what looks like powdered Aluminum (or bronze) that is dumped into the coolant. It is probably more complex compound than just powered aluminum but that is what it looks like. The manufacturer claims it seals all leaks, prevents corrosion of the water jacket, and provides lubrication to the water pump. I've seen it from time to time in automotive stores but have never had the need to purchase or use it since 1970 or so. If it is still available, I think I would try it first. And it it fails, go on to more expensive measures. I just looked it up on the internet. It is available for about $3.50.
  4. Have a nice time. I've always heard it was pretty fantastic. And I've always wanted to go - another year.
  5. I assume you will be heading through Indy on a weekday. I work out of town (South Bend for the time being) Monday through Thursday. For the month of October, I'll be working Monday through Friday. So, unless you plan on traveling through on Saturday or Sunday, our rendezvous will have to be delayed - perhaps on your return trip. Enjoy Hershey. Wish I were going. Dan
  6. I got the axles and carrier out this evening. I tried using the the drum as a slide hammer as you, Tailormade, had suggested but had no success. Not enough stroke and I didn't have enough umph. So I obtained a couple of 3/4 inch, 16TPI nuts, a 3/4 inch flat washer, and a couple of 5/8 inch, 18TPI nuts and welded them all together to create a slide hammer to axle adapter. This was suggested by someone on either this or another forum. It worked great. Both axles came out in less than a minute after I had attached the adapter and the slide hammer. Even though I was unable to make your suggestion work, I appreciate your advice. Dan
  7. I just pulled my real axle carrier and found the previous owner had used nylon locking nuts with no flat washers and no lock washers. I doubt nylon locking nuts were available in 1950 so these were no doubt used in an attempt to stop the leaks caused by a bad gasket that I am presently replacing. I checked the original maintenance manual. The exploded view of the illustrated parts breakout for the rear axel has a pointer to the nut and another to the washer. The text for the two items state bolts and lock nuts were used on some models while studs with nuts were used on other models. My car has studs and nuts. The manual further states no washer is used on stud and nut models. So it seems the previous owner used the correct approach by not using a nut only (no washer). This seems very odd to me. I will follow the manual and will not use washers but my gut feeling is I should add them. Have any of you had any experience with this? Is the use of the nylon locking nuts a good idea? If the manufacturer expressly eliminated the use of lock washers (for whatever reason), is the use of nylon locking nuts violating some physical principle that escapes my understanding? Lastly, as I get ready to re-install my carrier, does anyone have any recommendations regarding the use of gasket sealant. I've heard pros and cons for gasket sealant over the years and my conclusion is the its use is dependent on the particular part, manufacturer, and gasket in question. Sometimes its imperative you use it and sometimes its imperative you do not. Since you folks are the experts on this vintage Chrysler products, I would very much value your advice. Thanks Dan
  8. Wow! You have some work ahead. But it will make a great family project. I have a recently acquired 50 Coronet and have had to do a lot with my rear axle. It was suggested to me that I should check oldmoparts.com for the parts I needed. I have had great success with them. The online catalog is well organized and they seem to have virtually everything. They also state that if you don't find what you need in the catalog, you should contact them because they have much more that is not listed in the catalog. Good luck with your project. I'll keep an eye on the forum to follow your progress. Dan
  9. I need to know the proper axel retaining nut (Castle Nut) size and thread for my '50 Dodge rear axel . I'm pretty sure its 16 threads per inch but I'm having a little difficulty deciding on the shaft diameter. I believe it is either 1 1/16 X 16 or 1 1/8 X 16. Does anyone know for certain? The Dodge maintenance manual does not say. Thanks Dan
  10. Great information guys. Thanks for the education. I'm having a little trouble, Frank, seeing how your tool is actually used but I do understand the concept especially after seeing Spinneyhill's tool. I particularly like the hacksaw trick to create a screwdriver slot. Nice. I've never used the sandpaper trick to shape the shoes to the drums but I like it. Thanks all - I think I'm in good shape to proceed. Dan
  11. I understand the procedure, as it is stated in the maintenance manual and other sources, for adjusting brake shoes on the 1950 era Dodge. While the drum is off, I can set the anchor bolt (major adjustment or shoe heal adjustment) with the arrow pointing in the proper direction. I can set the minor adjustment cam (shoe toe adjustment) for greatest clearance. Both of these actions make it easy to replace the drum. The procedure is then to put the drum on the vehicle and to turn the major and minor adjustments, alternatively, until the shoe comes in contact with the drum and then back off a bit. As I said, alternatively, meaning go back and forth between major and minor adjustments until you are satisfied the shoe is close to the drum at both the toe and heal (and ostensibly for the full length of the lining). My problem with this procedure is I am able to make the minor adjustment after the drum is installed but am not able to do so with the major adjustment. The minor adjustment cam has a head on the backside to the brake plate for just that purpose. The major adjustment cam (brake shoe anchor bolt) does not. The large nut on the backside of the brake plate for the anchor bolt is there to lock the bolt in place after you are satisfied all adjustments are complete. There is no hex head or hex socket on the thing to allow me to turn the bolt/cam. So my question is, how do you folks adjust your brakes? Thanks Dan
  12. Your are most welcome - even if I wasn't the author of the information I sent. I wish you luck with you choke adjustments. You wouldn't happen to have a spare Sisson electric choke just hanging around would you? Mine isn't working. Dan
  13. Thank you for the quick and complete response. I do have the drum off one side. Haven't tackled the other side yet. I own a Made-in-China three leg "heavy duty" puller but, as you indicate, it may not hold up long. But for now, it is what I have. Using the drum as the slide hammer is pretty ingenious. I hadn't considered that as a possibility. I will try it next weekend. I am removing the axles in order to pull the differential carriage. The gasket is leaking pretty badly - so I'll take this opportunity to replace all the seals at the same time. I appreciate your offer to assist and may take you up on your offer if I have difficulties. I live at the southeast corner of Indy and presently work in South Bend (4 days a week). Depending on where you live from here, we could meet sometime as I travel to and from work.
  14. I did a search within this forum for "rear axle removal" and came up with one other occasion where a member requested guidance with the removal of his rear axel. He, coincidently, happened to have a 1950 Dodge as well. He didn't receive any advice. I remember from my youth, the axle is basically beat off with a slide hammer threaded to the end of the axle once all the brake hardware and outer seal is removed. The bearings and outer bearing race comes out with it (if I have this worked out properly in my mind). The inner bearing race and inner seal must be removed subsequently in a similar manner (with slide hammer or some similar tool). Can anyone confirm this is all correct and if no advise otherwise? My problem is then where do I obtain the necessary tools. When I search the internet for rear axle removal, all sources show the use of a slide hammer attached to the axle flange. My car doesn't have an axle flange (the brake drum is attached to the axle via a tapered shaft and key. I've considered re-attaching the drum to the axle and then attaching the slide hammer to it. I'm just not certain this is the correct approach. Any advice would be welcome. Thanks, Dan
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