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falconriley

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Everything posted by falconriley

  1. From the pistons it looks like the conrods are at least an inch too short. The gudgeon pin should be at the top of the piston, not the bottom. I have noticed many prewar cars have this fault. Matthew
  2. Are you sure it is not bronze? Bronze gears are very common in pre-war cars. Riley's use them for the speedo drive, magneto and coil ignition and oil pump drives at the very least. I know other cars use them too. Matthew
  3. I have found the application of heat to help with things that have seized. Perhaps that may allow them to undo. Matthew
  4. They could be Riley patent wheels from the Edwardian era. They were fitted to many makes of car, not only Riley's. The later cars used the Rudge Whitworth type. There is a lot of information here. http://riley-cars.co.uk/Riley-Wheels-1987-article.php Matthew
  5. The 16.9hp was introduced late 1926, and the catalogue for that year has sankey wheels, as does 1927 and 1928. 1929 is the first to show both wire and sankey wheels. All years show the five seater tourer body. I would say it is probably 1926/7 around the introduction of the model. Matthew
  6. It is a lock washer, or rather would be if it had the tab to bend over the bolt. Matthew
  7. Hello Bernie Going by what I paid for the machining and parts on my Riley 12/4 motor a couple of years ago I would say about $5000 will see it out. A couple of local Riley RM rebuilds in the last year have been a similar price. I now sometimes wonder if everything does have to be new, as I have seen a few engines recently that operated surprisingly well given their condition. Last Nine magneto was $650, but unfortunately the rebuilder is no longer with us to do more. Check where the local aircraft have their magnetos rebuilt, as these have to be certified. Matthew
  8. The 'back axle coupling' is a sliding pot joint or sliding block joint depending what you were taught. Two shaped square sections are required, each with a hole to fit the ears on your shaft which slide in what is basically a keyway inside a drum on the pinion shaft. The one I saw had rather hard to describe parts, as they weren't flat on the outside but convex on the outside face so as to allow them to slide. I believe it shall be easier and cheaper to replace it with a modern equivalent. Matthew
  9. It is his car, if he wants to build it wrong that is up to him. The BMC 1800 makes a lot of sense. Matthew
  10. I have Penrite Gear Box Oil 30 in my Riley Nine crash box, mainly because I also use it in the preslector of my 12/4 Riley. Matthew
  11. The electric lights is interesting, they fitted them early compared to others. More importantly did they have electric start, or can it be easily fitted? It appears also that you have parts from more than one car. Are there enough though for one complete restoration? Matthew
  12. Looks to me that what isn't restorable is still needed as patterns for the restoration. Does it come with instruments, lights and acetylene generator etc? Matthew
  13. Looks like Morris radiator cap.
  14. B series BMC. Morris, Wolseley, Austin. Not MG though. Matthew
  15. I understand they contain glycerine and alcohol. But if you change the seals they can be filled with motorcycle shock oil. Matthew
  16. You surprise me, as I know a couple of Amilcar owners and at least one former owner and they are not like that. Like Ben you know have aroused my curiosity. Matthew
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