Jilla 66 rivi GS

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About Jilla 66 rivi GS

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  1. I would check the ignition coils. two cylinders per coil, it is possible for one side of the coil to work and not the other. Also, make sure it has the proper thermostat in it.They are designed to run at a certain temp. my 96 has 234k miles. mostly original. couple waterpumps, serpentine belts, plugs, one coil...otherwise completely all original.
  2. I'm curious to know if their is a mechanical fuel pump block off plate on your motor?? I bet if you were to look on the timing cover, you would see one. My 69 Wildcat had a 430 with a timing cover mounted mechanical fuel pump. There can't be many differences between the two..the engine was only made for 2 years. What I'm getting at is, the mechanical fuel pump is much more practical. Easier to maintenance, inspect, or repair and you always get the proper fuel flow
  3. Glad to hear you got her going! Points were the issue with mine as well. Although, Thankfully I didn't need a 3rd party. I mentioned the starter jumper wire, thinking the original ignition wire may have been the culprit. Improperly installed or adjusted points won't let her fire either! Haha. Sometimes the obvious is often overlooked Either way, it's a learning experience. You can install a fuel pressure regulator anywhere before the carb and adjust it between 6 & 8 psi...thats all it will need. Problem solved! So happy to hear your progress! Very motivating
  4. I bought a duralast points and condenser set from autozone, screwed right in. Lifetime Warranty. $12 spent. For that price, I'll take two! Haven't had a problem yet
  5. Hi Dave, Don't get me lying to you about the exact voltage to expect. Haha. If the condenser is suspect, go grab one at autozone! Cheap! I do know a quick solution to get 'er up and going though. You can run a 12 gauge wire directly from the small terminal on the starter to the (+) side of the coil as a direct feed. I believe its the left side ( purple/brown?. You will have to disconnect the battery when done though. I can get mine in the air and see, if you are interested in going that route, just to get her going. That will give you a chance to see how healthy she is. Sounds like you have a faulty ground somewhere to me, I'd check the fuses as well. Are you considering electronic ignition in the future? Ever had any electrical gremlins? Lights, blinkers, work? Power seat, windows work?
  6. Timing specs are different for each engine Chevy, Buick, Olds but you are absolutely correct. Don't rely on anyone for the correct parts. I cannot tell you how many times, I've walked out of my local autoparts store with the wrong stuff! Any time I deal with the timing, I usually adjust for total timing and let the initial fall wherever it falls. When you replace parts in a distributor; advance weights, vac advance, etc.. it changes things. Find in your shop manual the total timing specs. I recall initial was 2 1/2, but I've heard of people bumping it up to 6-8. If you're distributor is not original, forget the initial, all factory info went right out of the window. Even if it is original, I would still tune it to total timing. If you don't know where your timing is maxing out ( somewhere around 30ish below 3k rpm). Most 60s 70s American cars I've seen, have all had around 30-35 degrees total timing. I think the Rivs like the timing all in before 2,800 rpms, possibly sooner. I'm sure your manual has all the exact specs. One important thing to always listen for is the advance, when you plug the hose back in after adjusting timing. If you don't notice any difference in rpms, chances are the advance has a ruptured diaphragm. Distributor weights effect how soon the distributor advances or at what rpm total timing is reached. Hopefully she's not too far out of whack. You wouldn't believe how much of a difference the little adjustments make!!
  7. I bet if you change the coil she will fire! If you see no spark, the coil is a good thing to suspect next. You'll need a digital multimeter to check the resistance levels of your coil. The side terminals of the coil are marked positive (+) and negative (–) and these are where you can measure the resistance of the primary windings. Set the multimeter to the 200-ohm setting and attach the meter's leads corresponding to the terminal markings, red being positive and black being negative. The normal primary reading for 12V on the primary side is 1.6, although a range of 1.5 to 1.7 is acceptable. Next, you'll want to measure the resistance of the secondary coil, and this is the real business-end of the spark-producer. Switch the meter's resistance range to the 20K-ohm setting and attach the negative (black) meter lead to the center terminal of the coil. The reading here should be 11.00 or better, with 13.49 being about normal. If your coil reads under 11.00, then chances are pretty good that this is the reason you're not getting any spark or a very weak one. If you want to avoid all the technical crap, just go to autozone and buy the entry level coil. Chances are... down the line you will convert to electronic anyway. Less maintenance/ more reliable. Although both get the job done. My 66 is still running on points
  8. She sure looks solid! Nice car. Anyway, any time I approach a no spark issue or with anything, I start with the basics or the little things. I believe you already done the internals of the distributor. Did everything appear clean? Points have to be snugged down pretty good and gapped properly (although I've eyeballed the gap and got engines to run)... the condenser should be perfectly round, any weird shape or out of round would indicate it's bad. The BLACK wire coming from your distributor base goes to the (-) negative terminal on your coil. I've found the wires swapped around a couple times, and in my case... it burned the coil, points, & condenser up. So definitely start in that area. I've had questions about resistance and such myself. A points system only needs 9 volts to operate properly, therefore the resistor breaks the 12v into 9v otherwise the points would burn up. People can always come up with formulas for this and that, but making it reality in our applications is often times tough. That's why we have one another to help out! IMO I would go for a factory replacement spec coil. I have a box of them, some new some used and if I need one I reach in and grab it, I don't read the labels and they always work. To help narrow it down though, I believe a resistance of 1 to 3 ohms is ideal, with factory points. Now that you've given more specifics, I'll try to help you look into it further. The starter wires also play a part in your ignition. Make sure connections are clean and everything has to be grounded. Battery to body, battery to engine, engine to firewall etc
  9. Wonder why the 69 Riviera had a electric in tank fuel pump, but my 69 Wildcat with the same 430 had a block mounted mechanical fuel pump?? Weird!
  10. I agree with Roadshark, get a turkey basin or syringe and squirt some Marvel Mystery oil in each spark plug hole, change the oil and filter, and drain and refill the coolant. Of course change fuel filter etc if you haven't already. I had a 69 Wildcat with a 430 that had 110k miles going strong, it had sat for a good period of time when I came along. I done the specified above with great results. I recommend disconnecting the positive wire to the coil and allow the engine to turn for a full minute to get the oil flowing good. I run valvoline vr1 full synthetic in every old car I own. It has the highest level of zddp you can find... old engines get along good with it, its designed for flat tappet ( old engines). I always fill my oil filters up with M.M.O before I screw them on. It would be wise to change the mechanical fuel pump at this time along with the rubber fuel lines etc. Be careful with the waterpump bolts when you go down that road, steel bolts and aluminum don't get along well together over time
  11. That does it for the ignition side, with the exception of plugs, wires, & distributor vacuum advance. Your question of; Is there any thing else I should check goes by an individual basis. Some cars have sat for many years, others have been maintained religiously. Is it coming from winter storage? Fresh from a barn? New project? I often start with fresh fluids, filters, and tune ups every year. Plugs and wires every other year, once again...depending on application. Best oil for old cars in my opinion is Valvoline vr1 racing oil 10w30 full synthetic. It is designed for flat tappet engines (old design) and it also has the highest level of zddp that old cars like to have! I'm a big fan of MMO (marvel mystery oil) as well. I use it in the specified quantities in my old and new cars in both the oil and gas, always with great results. As with everything, you get what you pay for. The drivetrain lubricants are of the most importance.
  12. Thanks for pointing out where he can locate the engine size. I was speaking from a visual perspective, outside of, the oil fill being on the front vs rear of the valve cover and a slight difference in factory valve cover shape, they would be hard to tell apart without visually seeing numbers or decals on the engine. Other then that, JZRIV said it all.
  13. Their were multiple wheel options I do believe, traditional buick motor divison rims, spokes with a gnarly blade thingy on the end, just to name a few. Who cares what engine it has, as long as its a buick engine and you're getting into it a good price! In all aspects honestly... the 455 is a superior engine, but the 430 wasn't a slouch by any means. I had a 430 in my 69 Wildcat and that big girl would tear the pavement up!!!