AB-Buff

I thought I would run out to the shop pop a hub cap off and take a picture, the screwdriver is pointing to where the ring ends come together. It comes out pretty easy.

Matt it’s been about a year since I took my rear hubs off. But I want to say there’s a snap ring or something that looks like a snap ring that goes around the outside of the hub it comes right off after that the axel will slide out and then you can get to the nuts it is a full floating differential. I usually take a lot of photos unfortunately I only took these two. Hope it helps

Matt if you’re going to drive it those are all wonderful suggestions. They’re easy to do and doesn’t take long.

I’m looking for a couple of nice six lug 18 inch wire wheels for 1932 and 33 master. I’m trying to find some that are “round”. Basically when you spin them they don’t go up and down a lot, I would like to find some within a 1/32 of an inch. Let me know if you have any.Thanks Lynn PS I’m looking for some within a 300 mile radius of 95376 ZIP Code. The cost of shipping this is quite expensive.

Ashley a NAPA store should carry what you looking for, I would ask for “water pump packing” material. It’s a “square” rope type material with graphite impregnated in it. Cut it to length and cut the ends at 45 and make sure they mate together to make a seal. It comes in a lot of different sizes from about 1/8” up.

I agree, I did not put them in mine and it’s fine. I didn’t throw them away, I still have them but so far so good.

Good deal, buy it and don’t leave home without it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/373612171174 if you don’t win the bid, Ray Theriault has a few of them. It’s a fantastic wrench. You need it for both front and rear.

If you make one do not breathe any of the dust from this. Even a small amount will cause major issues. It’s nasty crap. I have three left if you’re interested.

Matt make sure you polarize the generator before you start it.

Matt you’re not reading anything through the coil. You’re reading through the points to ground. Or if the points are open then you’re seeing voltage coming from the coil. If you wanna read what’s going through the coil you’ll have to disconnect it from the distributor.

No Mv is three decimal places .1263 volts

It’s also going to make a difference if your points are open or closed. If they’re closed you’ll see something close to 6 V if they’re open you’ll probably see something like .046 V That’s just the opposite if your points are open you’ll read 6 V from your switch to ground through your meter if they’re closed you’ll see some millivolts. sorry

Make sure you have the + side of the coil connected to the wire from your switch (6 volts) and the negative side going to the distributor. L

Well if I were a younger man and had a couple of more dollars in my savings account I would love to pull the body off this car and actually go through it and make it a perfect car. But it’s only had a cosmetic restoration over the years. It still looks extremely nice but not so nice you can enjoy driving it. However I would love to put it on the green at Pebble Beach even as a display car. 😁

I finally got around to adding a few more details to the 1935 engine. I have been collecting champion spark plugs for quite some time and I managed to get enough champion 7 plugs. So I thought I would change them out. I think it looks much better than a brand new spark plug from Napa.

Now that we mention coils that brings up another topic. I’ve had issues with coils in the past like, back in 1970 something. Where the coil was mounted to the intake manifold and became extremely hot and then quit and then when it cools off a little bit started working again and so on. When I took my Lincoln out for the last drive I was on it quit on me, which I said was the ignition switch. But I pulled the coil cover off and felt them and they were extremely hot. I’m wondering if because my switch had a lot of resistance going through the switch the coils were running a slow lower voltage and got hot? Does anybody know at what temperature a coil quits to function and at what temperature?

You can take a day or two to wipe that up after it runs out. 😂

Matt there’s a better way of seeing what’s in you oil. I send oil samples to a company called Blackstone Oil Analysis. I’ll hunt for the web address and posted a little later. Hard to do on the phone. You can send them an oil sample and they’ll tell you everything that’s in it, I did that with mine and it’s been cleaning up ever since . Actually my looks really good now after a few oil changes. They can tell you a lot of things about your oil, cost $30-$40 depending on what you ask for. I hope this link works. https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

I don’t know if you’ve started to put those heads on yet but I would put your intake and exhaust manifolds in place with your collector or Y pipe installed. I think I sent you a procedure that I went through. If you put the heads on first it’s difficult to get the nuts on the intake and exhaust manifolds not impossible but difficult. Lynn

Hi I am looking for a source for the rubber piece that fits up against the grill shell and the headlight bar. It’s a teardrop type shape. Both metro molded parts and steele rubber do not carry them. Anybody have any ideas? See photos

Matt I'm having a herd time remembering exactly what I did but I think I had a rod that was bent at the end that I could tap on the race from the inside to get it to come out. The hub is just stuck together and after I put mine in the solvent tank I think it just fell apart. It may have been stuck from some type of gasket sealant. Just be careful and not rough with it. Took a few minutes to think about it some more. I think I put it in the press and started to press the inner race, bearing and seal out as one from the opposite side. When the seal came out with the bearing I stopped and pressed the race back in. Does that make since? Lynn

Matt if you decide to run black walls consider the Excelsior Stahl Sport Radial | 700/750R17. I have an extra set of rims for my 35, probably going to buy a set of these for touring. Nothing like a radial tire.

What would Edsel do?

Matt I wanna say it was half-inch? I didn’t have any half-inch but I did have quarter so I made two and just put them both together. I put grease on them and stuffed them in there, it seems to be doing well I’ve got about 300 miles on the car and I don’t see any issues with it. Felt seals are pretty forgiving. I could not find an off-the-shelf lip seal that would adapt to it very easily without doing a lot of work.

Hey you have come to far now to cut corners. You will see that distributor and you will wish you had painted it. So take a halve hour and paint it, easy to do now. You can mask the Auto-lite tag off, you will thank me later 🙂 Lynn