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Everything posted by AB-Buff

  1. Lets see, I got a lot of I should have and don't??? So if the engine did not have a heating issue why would the heads be bad? What's wrong with ARP studs? they are designed to stretch and maintain the torque. So no JB weld and do not TIG silicone braze the block. So just leave it alone? Are you familiar with that process?
  2. I recently bought a 1935 LaBaron coupe, I feel like I was in the right place at the right time to purchase it, I am extremely happy to have it. I have spent many hours sorting it out to get it in driving condition as it sat for 4-5 years? I want to tour with it, not show it. It still has a few issues that I will attend to shortly. The biggest issue it has (had I hope) was that every time I started it up and let it warm up it would dump some water out of the over flow tube on the radiator. At first I just thought it was just trying to find it's happy spot in the radiator but every time it would dump water regardless of fluid leave in the radiator, it was not running hot at all, in fact it runs about 160 most of the time and on a 95 degree day it would run about 180-185. I finally decided to take the heads of, I felt that I must be pressurizing the radiator with combustion. After inspecting the gasket, heads and block there were two spot the could have possible been the problem, the water passages are very close to the cylinder bore and had eroded a little making the head gasket seal very close to the water passage. Another issue is the head was held down with cap screws and not studs. So the torque on a 7/16-14 vs 7/16-20 would be about 1,200-2,000 pounds force on the gasket depending on your torque on the bolt or nut. I am hooping this will be the remedy on my problem. I purchased the studs from ARP, and will use the correct 7/16-20 acorn nuts. My question to you is. Would you use something like JB weld to reduce the water hole size and re drill it or try and silicone bronze TIG weld it. I have fixed a few things with silicone bronze and I'm a good TIG welder, but not comfortable doing it myself, but I have a good friend that is the best welder I have ever seen. He fixed a 1933 Chevy block for me with silicon bronze I was going to throw away. Just curios if anyone has had an issue similar to this?
  3. I needed a new carb spacer for my Lincoln, the one that was on it had holes .200" so small for the carburetor bores. I guess I had a restrictor plate 🙂 . I made 4 of them and have 3 left. They are made from Garlock G-11 material, very strong, heat resistant and an excellent thermal barrier. If you need one they are $120.00 potage paid in the US. PM for address. Cross manifold not included 🙂
  4. The Lincoln "K" Model 1931-1939 Group was created to try and get Lincoln type “K” owners together to share there knowledge about the later Lincolns, possible find parts and share technical information etc. It is in no way to substitute or take away from the Lincoln Owner’s Club “LOC” in fact if you are not a member of the club you can do that at this address http://loc.clubexpress.com/ Lets get the information going! Lynn
  5. I am modifying the Tillotson carburetor seats to adapt to a new style needle and seat. This is a flat bottom seat, compatible with today’s gas. I will only do it on an exchange basis, you mail me your original Austin or Bantam Tillotson seat body (M10-A, M10-B and M10-BX) and I will mail you back an original Tillotson seat body that has been machined and a new needle and seat with gaskets. So if you want to be able to walk off from your car without worrying about the gas dribbling out of it or tired of you trailer smelling like gas now is the time to get one. $50.00 post paid. PM me for address
  6. Curt The original Battery and the Battery we used to get from interstate was a 17HF that will help you get the right size. https://www.batterycentralmall.com/Batteries/TurboStart/Script/17HF.html Apparently the days of going to a battery place and picking one up are gone. MG uses two of theses in there cars so I am hoping someone continues to make one. Good Luck Lynn
  7. They just received mine yesterday, I sent all 4 to 5 Star. it's now $350.00 per shock, apple was $365. I have more people saying 5 star is better so I sent them there. I have talked with Mike on the phone a few times and I think they are going to be fine. Thanks for the input Lynn
  8. Hi Looking for information on rebuilding 1935 Lincoln Houde shocks or if there is a good recommended shop to do it. I have a lot to do and I really don't want to make fixtures to do this, if I send the out I want them to last a few years. hopefully 10-15 without leaking. Any recommendations? I have heard of Five Points in SoCal and Apple hydraulics I think in NY. Lynn
  9. Does anybody know what Willys used as the stock transmission in 1936 for the Willys type 77? Maybe a Borg Warner? Number? Thank you
  10. This is all I have, just a photo. Sorry
  11. Need help identifying just the tail light, it's on a special 1 of 1 mount Thank You!
  12. 1933-1936 Trunk Rack Medallion Lincoln Fresh from the Chrome shop. These are bronze replications of an original Lincoln part, lost wax cast and hand polished. Very limited qty. When they are gone they are gone. $65 ea. postage paid anywhere in the USA.
  13. 1932-1939 Lincoln V12 Ignition Rotors These are better than NOS IGM-16 rotors. The rotors are made from a nearly unbreakable polyurethane (you will not break one with normal usage). They come with a new conductive graphite button .050” longer than stock and a new spring. These are quality rotors, the fit onto the distributor shaft is a nice snug push fit, no wobble. You can see the parts that make up the rotor assemble in the photos above, nicely machined and soldered together, when finished and oven curd at 180 degrees the contacts on each rotor are machined on a rotary table to the correct diameter, this also insures that the rotor are perfectly concentric with the distributor shaft assuring a perfect gap between the Cap and Rotor that will give you the same hot spark at each plug. They are not a cheap reproduction. These are made in a very limited number and will not be available forever. If you need one now is the time to pick one up. You will get a rotor very similar to the one pictured here. Used on Lincoln 1932-39 V12 $130.00, FREE shipping while supply lasts. Once again I only made a few and don't plan on making more, too much to do and time keeps slipping away. 😮 Why I say they are better, stock factory rotors are just cast and you get what you get, some are better than others. The contact on these are machined perfectly concentric with the shaft assuring the same gap between the rotor and cap. That gives toy the same spark at each plug. Many people have told me that there car has never run so good.
  14. 1933-1934 Lincoln Gas Cap "Pebble Beach Quality" Fresh from the Chrome shop. This is a solid brass replication of the 1933-34 Lincoln gas cap and is truly "Pebble Beach Quality". The brass billet alone cost close to $100.00. The cap is probably better than any original gas cap in that it has been machined and plated instead of investment casting, buffed and plating. You don't get any better than this. The detail is superb, I only made a few extras and don't plan on making anymore, ever. If you want the perfect gas cap for your Show Lincoln, here it is... Comes with a gas resistant gasket. .. $425.00 S&H $15.00 in the USA.
  15. I’m not sure if this is the correct place to post this or not. The headlights is made for Cadillac by Gray in Davis. I would just like to know what year Cadillac this headlight is for. I’m doing this from my phone, I hope it turns out OK. Any help is appreciated thank you
  16. I have a Packard super eight intake manifold. I do not know what year it is or the size of engine. Over all length is 26 1/2 inches by roughly 9 inches. Please see photos. $125+ shipping. daleljames@comcast.net
  17. Available now. Correct 1934 blue dot taillight lenses out of water clear polyurethane that are tinted exactly that same as color as the originals. I am making both the red lens and blue dot parts and a polished stainless steel bezel that marries the blue dot to the red lens. Complete lens is $200.00. Also available 19332 and 33 lenses out of polyurethane. $100.00. The only difference between a stock glass lens and mine is… mine won’t break. Free delivery Lynn James daleljames@comcast.net 209-815-1189
  18. I have put on several of events that last few years in other clubs, made give aways that took 8 months to make. Time to take it easy and let someone else do the work. I'll find something or go alone....
  19. Hi I'm not sure any Cadillac guys are going to look at this thread again. I would suggest starting a new topic and putting something in the subject like "1933 Cadillac judging blue dot tail light" I think you will get more attention Lynn
  20. Hi Mainly looking to see if there was going to be a hub type tours. There was one in Santa Rosa and one in Sonora the last few years both of them were fantastic. Hoping for another one.
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