Jump to content

AB-Buff

Members
  • Posts

    312
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by AB-Buff

  1. 1 hour ago, 28anut said:

    Rempco does not do altered gear ratios anymore.  They only copy what you presently have.  No spare stock on shelves.

    I think if you looked around you’d find it there is more than one gear cutter or gear vendor in the United States. I’m in California and there used to be one in Stockton that was very good. I don’t know if they’re still in business. Every time I went to a tool  tradeshow there was always a couple of Vendors that cut gears.

  2. I’m not sure if I should weigh in on this stuff or not. I have never put an overdrive in the Lincoln however I put one in a 1933 Chevy. Which was more work than probably putting it in the driveline of a Lincoln. I don’t see why you couldn’t use an offset flange as Mark suggested.  There are pros and cons to both overdrive and rear end gear changes. My 35 Lincoln has a 3.33:1 in it. That’s a pretty tall gear. But I can cruise down the freeway at 70 miles an hour pretty effortlessly. On the other hand when I get in the hills I would love to be able to knock it down to the standard third gear instead of the 3.33:1. Although being pretty tall gearing it does OK. With the overdrive you would have a five speed transmission. First over is not really an option but you have a second, second over, third and third over. That makes a pretty nice set up. The downfall would be if you take it and have it judged anywhere when they looked underneath they would see the unit. That’s something you would have to consider if you’re into that sort of thing. I’m going to attach the link that shows what I went through to made a 1946–48 Lincoln overdrive to the back of my Chevy transmission. It was a lot of work a lot of thought, I absolutely love the set up. I have over 7000 miles on the car now and it’s a lot of fun to drive. In some of the photos you’ll see the adapter plate between Chevy and Lincoln. Basically an offset flange. I also had to make a whole new transmission shift to go from Chevy to Lincoln. 

    https://www.americanbantam.com/Vintage-Chevrolet-Club-of-America-VCCA/34-Chevy-to-46-Borg-Warner-OD/n-GVnTg

     

  3. Hi you can easily take the axle out,  if you look at the OD of it (see pic) there’s a groove that has a ring in it that resembles a piston ring, pry that ring out, it comes out pretty easy, your axle will then slide out then you can get to the nut that holds the hub on. You’re going to need a special Timkin wrench to get that nut off unless you have some very large sockets. While you have that apart and are packing the bearings I would recommend replacing the seals, they’re felt. Ray Theriault in the Lincoln Owners Club has some beautiful seals for that. He also has a wrench if you don’t have a wrench. 
    Lynn

     

    8F9C11DD-760F-4A68-A61A-E8B4ABD1CCFA.jpeg

    B3F53A1E-DF45-4B03-8EBE-7543971AC31A.jpeg

    5D6A0420-91F1-49F9-9969-12DFC29FAB8C.jpeg

  4. Pretty nice fixturing. I ended up slowing the video down to .75 speed and it was more realistic of the speed. Still may be a little fast. It was amazing to see the fixturing involved in doing that, it would be kind a hard to mess up when you have tooling like that. Very nice thank you for sharing

    • Like 1
  5. 4 hours ago, Terry Harper said:

    I believe EGGE has them.

     

    https://egge.com/kit/l414m34-40/

    When I was looking into valves I checked with Egge. Their stems are slightly oversized so you will have to ream the guides if you buy them from them.

    I should add I elected not to buy them from them, they show intakes and exhaust as being the same part number. The stock Lincoln valves, the exhaust are a different material and non-magnetic. The material I believe it is stellite. I have no idea what egge makes their valves out of. I’m not an egge fan

    • Like 1
  6. 56 minutes ago, prewarnut said:

     

    By doing the math....the crank sprocket has 28 teeth. He was off by 2. To find degrees off: 2/28=x/360, solve for x. Or, x= 25.7 degrees (retarded). On a modern BMW the VANOS will advance/retard about 25 degrees in total (so +/- only 12-13 deg. depending on engine model). Also a modern 4 valve per cylinder head and higher compression ratio can move gases a little more vigorously. Here, however the whole valve system was off or really out of phase and I suspect some exhaust gases were aspirated back in on the initial stroke thus multiplying the heating of the combustion chamber for the next cycle.

     

     

     

     

    You’re looking at camshaft degrees. When you check or degree a cam you have a degree wheel on your crankshaft which turns two times faster than the camshaft. So double you’re a cam degree angle and that’s how many degrees retarded that engine was. Typically you do not advance or retard the camp more than 4 to 6°.

  7. Well the Lincoln seems to be running fantastic, drove it to history park in San Jose the other day. Was a nice event called “antique autos in history park”. It’s about 120 mile round-trip, took the freeway (65 mph) didn’t have any issues. Traffic was good.


    This coming weekend, September 25 driving it to Ironstone concourse in Murphy’s California. It’s about 81 miles from my home to Ironstone. I’ll be driving it there and back. If you have nothing to do and you’re in the area stop on by.

    Lynn

    phot is History Park

    6E361493-96CD-4118-85AD-80968916EC12.jpeg.46e7c8470229572814509b42cefb0ec9.jpeg

    • Like 1
  8. 1 hour ago, m-mman said:

     

    While we are waiting on the correct information about this K engine I thought I would show you a Ford Y-block (292-312)

    The crank and cam marks are off to the side 12 teeth apart.. . . 

    So the IS at least one engine that doesnt lineup, and it is a Ford. . . . .

     

     

    That’s probably the only engine known to mankind that does that. Every other one lines up the marks. Ford did some weird crap. Fortunately he didn’t have time to screw this Lincoln up. As for the later ones I don’t know.

    So Matt forget you ever saw this one. You will line those two marks up like every other normal engine and you’ll be a happy camper.

    • Like 1
  9. Matt my guess is those two marks have to line up at one point in time obviously it’s a 2 to 1 ratio so depending on the stroke they’re either lined up or 180° from each other. You are two teeth off in my opinion and it’s two teeth retarded which would make the engine run very high speed but two teeth is a lot. When you advanced the cam gives you low end and retard gives your top end. But usually only do that by a few degrees you’re like 10° or 12. So Plan on lining those two marks up, I don’t think you’ll get any information that tells you different. I have never ever had an engine with the marks did not line up to one another at one point.

    Lynn. 
     

    I want to add that when those two marks are lined up number one piston will be at the top. It could be at the top of the exhaust stroke or it could be at the top of the compression stroke. It doesn’t make any difference but it will be at top dead center on one of those two cycles

    • Like 2
  10. Matt I don’t know if you’ve done this yet or not but I would re-torque your intake and exhaust manifolds and also your head gasket. You have heat cycle that engine quite a few times and if you haven’t done it I can guarantee you they are all very loose. I’ve torqued my intake and exhaust manifolds five times now, every time I do I think I’m not going to get much out of it and surprisingly they’re fairly loose the last time I checked the intake and exhaust they were pretty good. I might check them one more time to be sure but I have close to 21 inches of vacuum when it’s running at idle, if those are leaking that will lean out your mixture and cause it to run hot. I also found that the ones closest to the front of the engine were a lot looser than the ones to the rear not sure why.

    Lynn 

    • Like 2
  11. 1 hour ago, Matt Harwood said:

    OK, dropped the pan and threw away another 3 gallons of expensive synthetic oil with probably fewer than 10,000 engine revolutions on it. That offends my sense of waste

    Matt consider it part of cleaning the insides of your engine out. I think I’ve changed my oil five or six times in 2000 miles. You can add that up, it’s expensive but not near as expensive of the cost of a rebuilt engine. I would rather put a few minutes to a few miles on oil and change it just to clean stuff up.

     

  12. 29 minutes ago, 95Cardinal said:

    Matt,

    H&H Flatheads sells replacement parts and also offers high-performance builds of the Model K V-12.

    One of the "improvements" listed in their typical V12 build is a high flow water pump.

    If you don't find any obstructions and your pump turns out to be the culprit, maybe somebody there could help you identify what's going on with the pump. 

     

    https://handhflatheads.com

    I'm pretty sure that's not "K" Lincoln... Zephyr v12 different animal

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...