AB-Buff

I think if you looked around you’d find it there is more than one gear cutter or gear vendor in the United States. I’m in California and there used to be one in Stockton that was very good. I don’t know if they’re still in business. Every time I went to a tool tradeshow there was always a couple of Vendors that cut gears.

I’m not sure if I should weigh in on this stuff or not. I have never put an overdrive in the Lincoln however I put one in a 1933 Chevy. Which was more work than probably putting it in the driveline of a Lincoln. I don’t see why you couldn’t use an offset flange as Mark suggested. There are pros and cons to both overdrive and rear end gear changes. My 35 Lincoln has a 3.33:1 in it. That’s a pretty tall gear. But I can cruise down the freeway at 70 miles an hour pretty effortlessly. On the other hand when I get in the hills I would love to be able to knock it down to the standard third gear instead of the 3.33:1. Although being pretty tall gearing it does OK. With the overdrive you would have a five speed transmission. First over is not really an option but you have a second, second over, third and third over. That makes a pretty nice set up. The downfall would be if you take it and have it judged anywhere when they looked underneath they would see the unit. That’s something you would have to consider if you’re into that sort of thing. I’m going to attach the link that shows what I went through to made a 1946–48 Lincoln overdrive to the back of my Chevy transmission. It was a lot of work a lot of thought, I absolutely love the set up. I have over 7000 miles on the car now and it’s a lot of fun to drive. In some of the photos you’ll see the adapter plate between Chevy and Lincoln. Basically an offset flange. I also had to make a whole new transmission shift to go from Chevy to Lincoln. https://www.americanbantam.com/Vintage-Chevrolet-Club-of-America-VCCA/34-Chevy-to-46-Borg-Warner-OD/n-GVnTg

A close-up of the ring in its groove.

Hi you can easily take the axle out, if you look at the OD of it (see pic) there’s a groove that has a ring in it that resembles a piston ring, pry that ring out, it comes out pretty easy, your axle will then slide out then you can get to the nut that holds the hub on. You’re going to need a special Timkin wrench to get that nut off unless you have some very large sockets. While you have that apart and are packing the bearings I would recommend replacing the seals, they’re felt. Ray Theriault in the Lincoln Owners Club has some beautiful seals for that. He also has a wrench if you don’t have a wrench. Lynn

I’ve never owned a Packard or never done any research on Packard. Does anybody know what body company that is? Briggs, LeBaron, Maury etc. or did Packard do their own wood?

Pretty nice fixturing. I ended up slowing the video down to .75 speed and it was more realistic of the speed. Still may be a little fast. It was amazing to see the fixturing involved in doing that, it would be kind a hard to mess up when you have tooling like that. Very nice thank you for sharing

Hi there is a section on this forum just for 1931-1939 KA, KB and K Lincoln this is for the rotor

Thank you!

A friend of mine texted me this picture, looks familiar but I don’t know for sure if you know what it is let me know. Thank you

I should mention, I’ve had that article for probably five years. I have tried contacting the individual stated in the article and he cannot be found. That’s why I’m still looking. Somebody has to know who owns this truck somewhere. Anyway thanks for looking and responding

Thank you both. I’ll have to see if I can do some thing with that license plate. Dale

When I was looking into valves I checked with Egge. Their stems are slightly oversized so you will have to ream the guides if you buy them from them. I should add I elected not to buy them from them, they show intakes and exhaust as being the same part number. The stock Lincoln valves, the exhaust are a different material and non-magnetic. The material I believe it is stellite. I have no idea what egge makes their valves out of. I’m not an egge fan

You’re looking at camshaft degrees. When you check or degree a cam you have a degree wheel on your crankshaft which turns two times faster than the camshaft. So double you’re a cam degree angle and that’s how many degrees retarded that engine was. Typically you do not advance or retard the camp more than 4 to 6°.

I think they had somewhere around 135 cars, I think it was a little low compared to years in the past. The weather was about 73° it was perfect. I’ve never been there with the weather this good. They do a great job, lots of fun I hope it continues

Well the Lincoln seems to be running fantastic, drove it to history park in San Jose the other day. Was a nice event called “antique autos in history park”. It’s about 120 mile round-trip, took the freeway (65 mph) didn’t have any issues. Traffic was good. This coming weekend, September 25 driving it to Ironstone concourse in Murphy’s California. It’s about 81 miles from my home to Ironstone. I’ll be driving it there and back. If you have nothing to do and you’re in the area stop on by. Lynn phot is History Park

The more I think about this I am blown away that that motor even ran. I’ve heard of guys starting it up one tooth off and having all kinds of issues but never as far as two. You’re on the road to success now young man

That’s probably the only engine known to mankind that does that. Every other one lines up the marks. Ford did some weird crap. Fortunately he didn’t have time to screw this Lincoln up. As for the later ones I don’t know. So Matt forget you ever saw this one. You will line those two marks up like every other normal engine and you’ll be a happy camper.

When I said earlier I was off by about 12-14°. That’s cam angle. It actually looks like more like 20° cam angle which would be about 40° crank angle or more which is huge, when you fix that you’re gonna love that motor. By the way that would make it run hot 🔥

Matt my guess is those two marks have to line up at one point in time obviously it’s a 2 to 1 ratio so depending on the stroke they’re either lined up or 180° from each other. You are two teeth off in my opinion and it’s two teeth retarded which would make the engine run very high speed but two teeth is a lot. When you advanced the cam gives you low end and retard gives your top end. But usually only do that by a few degrees you’re like 10° or 12. So Plan on lining those two marks up, I don’t think you’ll get any information that tells you different. I have never ever had an engine with the marks did not line up to one another at one point. Lynn. I want to add that when those two marks are lined up number one piston will be at the top. It could be at the top of the exhaust stroke or it could be at the top of the compression stroke. It doesn’t make any difference but it will be at top dead center on one of those two cycles

Matt I don’t know if you’ve done this yet or not but I would re-torque your intake and exhaust manifolds and also your head gasket. You have heat cycle that engine quite a few times and if you haven’t done it I can guarantee you they are all very loose. I’ve torqued my intake and exhaust manifolds five times now, every time I do I think I’m not going to get much out of it and surprisingly they’re fairly loose the last time I checked the intake and exhaust they were pretty good. I might check them one more time to be sure but I have close to 21 inches of vacuum when it’s running at idle, if those are leaking that will lean out your mixture and cause it to run hot. I also found that the ones closest to the front of the engine were a lot looser than the ones to the rear not sure why. Lynn

Matt consider it part of cleaning the insides of your engine out. I think I’ve changed my oil five or six times in 2000 miles. You can add that up, it’s expensive but not near as expensive of the cost of a rebuilt engine. I would rather put a few minutes to a few miles on oil and change it just to clean stuff up.

Mine only has one L

Excellent, great idea. You’re right a pump is a pump. Let us know what you find out!

I'm pretty sure that's not "K" Lincoln... Zephyr v12 different animal

While you have that apart take a picture of the impeller of the one you’re dissecting and the one that you in yours. I’d like to see if there’s any difference in the two. I think Ray mentioned there were three or four different types of impellers (L & K) I’m wondering if they look similar and are not interchangeable?