Jump to content

AB-Buff

Members
  • Posts

    200
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by AB-Buff

  1. Well last night, March 28. I decided this was the evening to start the Lincoln. Had to pour a little fuel down the carburetor to prime everything but it lit right off and ran like a Swiss watch. I let it run for a while, probably 10 minutes at a semi-fast idle I watch the shutter system open up at 140° and I ran it for probably 30 minutes the outlet temperature was 193 check with an infrared gun. Shut it off let it sit for 10 minutes flip the switch on and bumped the starter button and it fired right off. Very happy. This evening I re-torqued the intake manifold the intake/exhaust manifolds and the heads. Glad I did the heads again. I probably got anywhere from 30 to 90° of turn on each nut. It’s very quiet mechanically. Idols very nice. Tomorrow I’ll put a vacuum gauge on the carburetor and check ignition timing, I’ll probably put it at 10° before top dead center and advance a few degrees from there to find its best performance. I’m a happy camper. I am posting this from my iPhone so I hope it displays OK. I’ll check it sometime in the next 24 hours on the PC to make sure it does. Lynn
  2. Thanks Ed. You know most of the issues I had with this car is where someone cut a corner for the fix or maintenance 😞
  3. Thank you Matt: I attached some photos of the stud and the receipt, that's the price for 60, I figured if I bought 2 extras I wouldn't loose one 🙂. There not cheap but very nice. They can be torqued to 85 ft. lbs. I would recommend using the thread lubricant on the stud and under the nut.
  4. Yes that's correct, there are no corresponding holes in the head. I think they were to hold the core when it was cast. Photo of head when it was removed Lynn
  5. Well this is pretty much where I’m at today. I have not started it yet but I am very close. I keep getting a few yard duty jobs in front of this one. But only have to do a few more things, air cleaner will go on today and buttoning up the exhaust manifold, some cables and it will be ready to start. It’s turning out very nice. If it runs as good as it looks I’ll be happy.
  6. Cleaned up the distributor somewhat, sanded and painted, re-checked synchronization on my distributor machine and bought some new fasteners to hold the distributor clips on. Once again using one of the rotors that I make.
  7. Well we have the fan assembly off it’s probably a good time to repack the bearings. The seal was a felt seal. I tried to find a modern seal for it and nothing seem to be available in metric or an inch. So I had to make another one out of felt. You can take the whole thing apart but you have to be very careful not to ruin anything. Literally this fan runs on a spindle that you could use on a go cart. After it is assembled if you put the little cover that’s on the fan last you can put a grease zert the fill line and pump that full of grease while slowly turning it. Once that’s done you’ll never have to touch it again are used a little bit of silicone sealant to put the cap on, Its called “the right stuff” it’s fantastic
  8. Picture showing the heads with proper acorn nuts torqued.Picture showing the heads with proper acorn nuts torqued.
  9. Time to install the heads. I ended up going to a final torque value of 45 foot pounds. Are used a RP thread lubricant on each stud. Final torque value is probably a little higher than 45 because of the less friction on each nut. I made a little tapered piece that slipped over two studs and the outside was tapered this centered the head on the studs. There was quite a bit of slop between the stud and the holes in the head. These are aftermarket heads they’re very nice but they added a little bit more clearance for the studs than the stock ones. Which should help removal if they ever come off. Hopefully not in my lifetime. LOL. I also turn down a piece of metal to clamp in the spark plug tube holder to hold it in the right orientation while talking the nuts. If you don’t do this they will spin and turn. It’s hard to put a wrench underneath them it would have to be a very thin one, I didn’t have one to sacrifice.
  10. The ARP studs are fantastic. There is a 3/16 hex on the end of them they install very easy. There were only six that either go into water, intake or exhaust ports they’re all across the top. But I used a High temperature liquid Teflon thread sealant on all the studs. The acorn nuts are the best looking nuts I have ever seen. Once again I got them from Ray Theriault. They were a little pricey but they were worth every penny. They’re absolutely beautiful. Picture below showing getting it set up to install the head. Laid out all the fasteners so I didn’t have to go looking.
  11. When installing the intake exhaust and the carburetor log or crossover. It’s much easier to do with the heads off. You can actually get your finger in there to start the round nosed nuts. I put the crossover or carburetor log on with some temporary fasteners, no gaskets to align the intake and exhaust all up in the same plane. I also put the “Y” pipe/collector on with no gasket to do the same thing. All the fasteners were torque to 25 foot pounds. We have to kind of sneak up on it when tightening everything. I came back the next day and recheck them and was able to get another 10° Of turn on them. After the engine has run a little I will go back through and re-torque everything. Several times.
  12. Before I took the engine down I had taken a couple hundred mile drive in it the outside temperature was in the low 50s. I had a hard time getting the engine warmed up enough that I could take the choke off. Ended up covering part of the radiator just to get it up to in the 140 range. It wanted to run around 120. It did not have a shutter system in front of the radiator. Once again my friend Ray Theriault came through with a bellows and shutter system that was in good shape. I stripped it painted it and installed it the bellows starts to move at 140°. That should solve the problem of cold days.
  13. Well I thought I’d give a little bit of an update. Almost can’t remember where I left off but while I was at the point where the heads were off I decided to go a little further. I pulled all the valves out and did a valve job on it. The assembled height spring pressure when the valves were closed was on the whippy side was only 40 pounds. I brought that up to book value which is around 75 to 80 pounds. Did a little bit of porting while I was there, not radical just cleaned up a few little places, the port shapes are very nice. I decided to flush the cylinders water jackets out with water. This is a great time to do that. There is a elbow at the bottom of each bank that is the water inlet. I took those off and took a water hose nozzle that I could put different ends on. Rolled the car outside and sprayed through all of the water passages. I literally got a quart of debris out of it some of it look like sand not much rust but just a Lot of crap. I think somebody poured some thing in this at one time to stop leakage. If you get to the point where you have the heads off that’s a great time to do that. Once again this car did not have a heating issue the issue was combustion gas is pressurizing the water system. But cleaning those passages and the crud in the water check a job is a big plus. Picture below is the water nozzle and some of the debris that was inside the water jackets. Picture below is the water nozzle and some of the debris that was inside the water jackets.
  14. Hi back in the 70s I owned this truck partially restored it and sold it. Looking for the owner of it now, if anybody knows the whereabouts please let me know. I have historical information about it. Lynn
  15. I think the more information we pass back-and-forth the better it will be. Thanks for the thanks!
  16. I was wondering about the copper coat. When my dad was around, we started building engines back when I was four, it was a long time ago we always used to paint them with a metal paint either silver or gold. But the paint had to be a metallic or metal in it. It always seem to work, I’ll have to buy a can of that and spray it on something to see if I like it. I don’t want to bond the heads in place, they can be hard enough to come off after 5 to 10 years. Thanks Chuck!
  17. Johnny You might try here, https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/ . Click on the Library that is the year for your car , then make. It's the only thing I have found, so far. Lynn
  18. I always like the 3 window coupe. This must have been an adventure. When I had my 1930 coupe I met up with a group from the UK and drove from Las Vegas to the Santa Monica pier in Ca. Fun trip.
  19. How far over from a 5/16 stud would you recommend as far as clearance on the heads bolts? I have a pretty good machine shop.
  20. John Kocsis took over everything Ernie was doing, he still has heads made per Ernie's specifications. To my knowledge he doesn't make the acorn nuts. That is really good advice about giving the stud a little more clearance, hadn't thought about that. That is the issue when trying to take one of these heads off that been on for a long time that had a little water seeping in past the threads, makes a long day of in taking them off... or week or more!
  21. Thanks Matt I am pretty exited about it. I have about 500+ miles on it just messing around and sorting it out, love to drive it. I took a couple of photos of the studs, they are 3.250" long. With that length I think you can use them every where. There are only two of them on each side that are a little longer and that's the two you refer to that hold the spark plug conduit bracket, it's like .125-.187 longer. I think with this stud length they will work in all the holes, as edinmass said you have to check each one to make sure the acorn nut doesn't bottom out. As long as you have 1 1/2" the tread diameter threaded into the in the block you will be fine I got the Acorn nuts from Ray Theriault in Connecticut, I believe he has more, they are more than the ones you found but they are the correct shape and polished. I was planning on blocking the exhaust off from the intake cross over. I was going to drill and tap it but I think a blank gasket will do the job. I have some gasket material that has a metals core, its used for head gaskets and manifold gaskets (at least that's what it says on the tech sheet) so I'm going to make the two big oval gaskets that connect the cross over to the two manifolds and make two blank ones for the old exhaust ports, there really isn't any pressure there having them both blocked, there no place for it to go. As long as it doesn't burn out I'm good. we will see, if it does I will plug the intake side, easy to take off and on. When sorting the car out I had 4 thermocouples on a readout that I could monitor in the car. I had 1 on the water inlet just after the water pump, 1 on the water outlet at the Y at the top of the radiator, 1 on the fuel inlet to the carburetor at the float bowl and one on the oil filter. The one on the fuel at the float bowl ran pretty hot, like 130 F (95 degree day) at 140 ethanol starts to go from liquid to the gas state. That's when I decided to make a new carb insulator block for under the carb and plug those two exhaust cross over holes in the manifold. It's a good this to do.
  22. Fresh from the Chrome shop. This is a solid brass replication of the 1933-34 Lincoln gas cap and is truly "Pebble Beach Quality". The brass billet alone cost close to $100.00. The cap is probably better than any original gas cap in that it has been machined and plated instead of investment casting, buffed and plating. You don't get any better than this. The detail is superb, I only have 3 left and don't plan on making anymore, ever. If you want the perfect gas cap for your Show Lincoln, here it is... Comes with a gas resistant gasket. ..450.00 Free S&H in the USA. PM for purchasing details
  23. I also decided while I have tall the manifolds off to have them redone. Originally they were coated with porcelain. That looks extremely nice but has a tendency to crack and pop off. I was told by a number of Lincoln guys if you want to drive it just do them in Ceramic, it looks good and wont's crack of pop off. Because I will never show this car seriously and want to drive and tour with it I went with the Ceramic. You can see a before and after. I will post a finished picture when they are installed.
  24. I have a set of Ernie Foster heads and may use them, I was saving them for another project but I may never get to that one. The heads that were on the car appear to be original and in excellent shape but I will probably go with Ernie's . I have some steel NOS head gaskets that I will use. The water pump looks excellent inside, it was rebuilt when the heat exchanger was replaced a few months ago. As far as scoping the block, there are 3 large holes that apparently held the core when these were cast, you can fiscally look to the bottom when yo look in them. These cylinder block have no sediment and look extremely nice inside the water passages. I have tried Evaporust on a few things and was not impressed with it, I don't think I need to run anything trough this anyway as it look great inside.
×
×
  • Create New...