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AB-Buff

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Posts posted by AB-Buff

  1. Hi

    The last car show I was at I was dusting the car off, and the duster grabbed the windshield wiper and broke the arm. If you look closely at the picture, you can see where it is cracked. Anyway, I’m looking for a replacement if anyone has one please, PM, me and if you could attach a photo of it that would be great. This happens to be the passenger side, but I’ll take either one. I believe I can take the pen out and switch the arm. Thank you. 

    Lynn

    34BC7133-4563-4B24-A774-11DDFBDD7345.jpeg

    E9F7CEEC-E615-4711-BCAF-BCDDD8912989.jpeg

  2. Matt, I just took a look at my oil line on my 35. I believe it is factory. It basically comes right off the top of the engine looks like it goes pretty much straight up makes a 90° bend and into the firewall. Your engine will not jump around like a 60s car. Those motor mounts hold it pretty firm. So I don’t think you need to put any loops or bends to make it flexible. I have no issues with throttle cable or linkage with my oil line. Try doing that. 
    Lynn

  3. Hi can you clarify your lighter a little bit. When I think cigar lighter I think of the old style that you pull out and it’s on a cord. My 35K it basically has a cat-eye cigarette lighter. I can take a picture of that if you like.

    Lynn

     

    I was going to take one this evening and forgot, I had this one in a file.

    IMG_5527 - Copy.jpg

  4. Well a size 13 shoe could be an issue. Mine are like tens. The hardest thing is between the corner of the seat and the post. They all seem to be pretty small on space. I’m hoping you can maybe move that seat back another inch or two possibly just move the seat rails back a little bit? I don’t know what that one looks like with the seat out you’ll have to play with it. Once again Matt Harwood has the same car he may have some info but I don’t. In fact I’m sure he has more info than I do. Lol 

    Lynn

  5. Matt Harwood has the same model as yours. I’m not sure how tall Matt is, I think that’s interesting I have a 35 LeBaron coupe and I have the seat all the way forward and I wish I could move it a couple of inches further forward. I am 5 foot 10. You would think they would have the same amount of room in each one. 
    Lynn

  6. The application is 1935 Lincoln, would like to try and find a set before I need new tires. I’d like to try Black walls but being the car is so dark I don’t think it would look good without the trim rings if I can’t find the trim rings will go back with white. 

  7. Matt I forgot to mention. Whoever does your Crankshaft, all of those plugs need to be removed and cleaned out thoroughly my guess is this car sat around for a while maybe during the 80s and 90s and all of that old non-detergent crappy oil that we used to buy settled in those journals. It’s like a centrifuge and it’s held in there. Then somebody put in new modern oil and when it warmed up all that dirt came loose and wasted those bearings. It’s lucky it’s survived and didn’t lock up, they usually lock up in a short time.  So make sure that’s thoroughly cleaned I would also recommend finding somebody that does a nice job on balancing before you put everything back together. It’s well worth the money. After it’s broken in you could run any type of oil if you’d like it. I run full synthetic. And no It’s not gonna waste the cam. We’re not looking at 800 pounds of valve spring pressure. It’s only about 80 to 120 it’s so it’s not a problem. I’m a stickler for details just keep looking for a little tiny things it will come up and bite you in the butt in the end. The one you miss will be the one you get you. Make sure it’s clean before and during assembly.

    L

    • Like 1
  8. Matt the main bearings were actually Babbitt and line bored as well as the cam bearings. On the rods what people do now is use 7.3 Ford diesel rod bearing, you have to resize the rods for the caps and then you can grind the crack to fit the rod bearing. Do not Babbit your rod bearings. They’re supposed to be a insert harder bearings. For valves and valve guides I would go through Ferria. It’s a little expensive but you get what you pay for. I would not buy anything from Egge, especially Pistons. On other engines we’ve had issues with their Pistons, smoking I just don’t like them. My opinion. I would try Ross piston in Southern California I’m guessing they’re gonna be a couple hundred bucks apiece maybe $250 ea.  I don’t know everything‘s going up right now.  You might also try Arias in Southern California, both places are a couple of blocks apart. I talk to them a couple of years ago and it’s some thing they can do fairly easy. my engine is .060 inches oversize so you’ve got another .030” to go.

    my 2 cents

    L

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