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AB-Buff

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Everything posted by AB-Buff

  1. I’m with Matt. I believe Black is correct I don’t think I’ve ever seen one not black. I believe I have some more photos when I get back on the computer I’ll take a look. You have to remember these are show room photos.
  2. Here are a couple of factory photos. first two 1935 and 1936 Looks like Matts car is in the photo 🙂
  3. Hi Chuck I took off .150 inches at least that’s what I asked for I ended up at .160” off. That seems like a lot but the aftermarket heads seem to be deeper than the original heads. When I CCed them the volume much larger than stock. When you take that much off you have to go in and mill out for the valve clearance. Which I did myself. Anyway I would not take more than .100 inches of the face of a stock head. If you do you’ll have to go back in and spot face for valve clearance. I ended up at 7.56 to 1 compression ratio which I think is good. It runs fantastic I can literally go out and just bumped the starter when its cold for about two seconds and it starts. I’ve also advance the timing to 10° before TDC and I’ll try and go a little more later. If I remember correctly on a stock head, if you take .100 inches off depending on your bore and the head gasket you use you’ll end up somewhere around 6.5 to 6.8 to 1. Do some measurements before you cut! Lynn
  4. I have a 1934 Lincoln Two Window Town Sedan in my shop, it was missing a lot of pieces but I have fond everything I need, I think. I had a lot of stuff chromed and nickle plated last year when the plate shop was slow. Hoping to restore it but I may sell it? We will see. Lynn
  5. Matt Put me down for a set! THANK YOU! For getting them made! Lynn
  6. I bought the .812. I ended up using a thicker washer that I had that’s .845. If I had not needed the thicker washer I would use the .812. They both look nice with the nuts. You don’t want something that’s real big. I took material off my head to raise the compression ratio. That’s why I use the thicker washer. Lynn
  7. Looks fantastic. The two window town sedan is a very very nice looking car
  8. Hi Well I thought it was necessary. When you are looking for a V-12 "K" part it's much easier to not have to sift though a lot of Zephyr and Continental parts. There are completely different. Lynn
  9. Hi Matt. I want to reiterate that I’m not having a heating issue and I’m not losing water. But I do feel the water isn’t spending enough time in the radiator. They put a pretty darn good pump on these things so I think I’m going try slowing it down just a little with restrictors . I made two of these today they’re a half inch thick cupped on each side leaving a quarter inch thick web then I put a full radius on it the ID is 5/8 of an inch. I think this should work well if not I can always slip them right back out. And you won’t see them. I think the in-line thermostat is perfect. If I would’ve found some of those when I put this together I would’ve use those. I do like the shutter system in the front and that it warms up quickly and once it opens it maintains that temperature. When I took this for a ride last winter it would never warm up enough to come off a choke. I forgot to mention this is 304 stainless steel so it’s not going to go away
  10. Yes there’s a gentleman in the club that has kept track of Lincolns for many years, he is getting up in age and isn’t doing real well but if something happens to him I believe the book will end up with Ray Theriault. Somehow it needs to be archived somewhere. I don’t think the club has ever done a roster of any type on K’s. Linus Tremaine has done one on L or is working on one. I took a picture of my number that is on the rear of the engine by the motor mounts. It’s the same as on the front but my engine number is much lower, 38xx
  11. Matt I'm pretty sure you have the correct engine, I believe Lincoln just cast engine and as they were cast they just put a number on them to keep track of the casting date etc, When they wanted the next engine case no one when out to look for the next number they just grabbed the next block. After the engine was assembled and tested it got an ID number and when a body was set on the chassis it got a matching ID number. On my 34 and 35 those numbers don't match either. I doubt if any of them did.
  12. Matt I am not familiar with time-sert inserts, I have had extremely good luck with that type of insert though. I looked on there web site and under FAQ they state this TIME-SERT will state that if the thread repair is done correctly and with the proper length of insert used for the application e.g. the insert is the same length of the original thread engagement, the result should be a hole that should match the original torque specification of the hole.
  13. Ed Yesterday was a 70 mile drive, some freeway and some back roads, I ran between 50-65, mostly 59 (about 2100 RPM) it was 83 degrees outside temp, and the temperature on the gauge was in the middle which when I checked with an infrared gun that was 180 degrees. So far so good. An interesting observation. When I got the car there was not a front radiator shutter system. What I noticed when I put it on and it opens up fully at temperature it tends to direct the air under the hood to each side where the hood vents are. Clever if that was the intent but I think my car feels a LOT cooler inside while driving it. Before (without the shutters) the air went straight back to the firewall, it was very hot in the car. Lynn
  14. Mine has a little bit different filler neck add it to the top that I can use a pressure cap it also has overflow relief built into that section. You can also see how I mounted my little diverter.
  15. Ed asked if I had solved my water issues. I would say that I have about 80%. I still wanna do or try a couple of things. When I found out is in 1935 Lincoln moved the radiator cap underneath the hood. It no longer is at the very top of the radiator. I am also finding out it wasn’t the best of designs. Water comes out of both heads through a 1 3/8” ID hose and comes together into a “Y” casting that’s mounted to the radiator, that’s where it measures temperature. Right off that “Y” there’s a little elbow with the radiator cap. When the engine is running you cannot leave that cap off water will come pouring out because of the rate that it’s being pumped through the engine and it’s fairly substantial. So when it heats up and builds a little bit of pressure there’s no way it can relieve that without spitting out water because it’s flooding that area. In 1937 they change the design somewhat and made it better and had a special radiator cap belt it looks like it has a pyramid on the bottom of it, tip pointing up that keeps it from seeing water directly. Still not a real good design. I ended up using a 4 pound pressure cap on my radiator I also built a little stainless steel diverter that I could stick in my filler neck and attach it to where the chain used to attach to the radiator cap to keep you from losing it. I can still pour water into the radiator easily. But it just keeps some of the water from slush directly towards the cap when it comes into the Y area. I’ve attached a picture out of an old fork and blade publication I did not take the picture but it’s still readable this has been a problem for some time. The other solution is to slow the water down in the engine. I’m thinking of doing that because it is pumped at a fairly rapid rate I think by putting a set restrictors in the hose with 5/8” holes the water will slow down through the radiator and probably cause it to cool more. Basically like the thermostat in a normal engine but with a fixed hole. I’ve also attached a picture of the little diverter I made but unfortunately I didn’t take it from the top view looking down but the round part is at an angle which keeps the water from pouring into the cap area. You’re still cannot run the engine with the cap off and not have water pour out 1935 Radiator, Not my radiator but you can at least see how is.
  16. Hi Ed Thanks for the tip on the runningboards. I was hoping there was some kind of magic solution that would help protect them a little bit more. I guess armor all might work but that only is there for a short time and goes away. But thank you. I would like to answer you about the water question on the Lincoln model K area. I have more to add to that. But basically I drove my car 100 miles the last coupe of days and it hasn’t dropped a drop of water but there’s been a few modifications to keep it from doing that and I’m not done yet. Lynn
  17. Hi Maybe this topic has been discussed before, not sure. On my 1935 Lincoln the runningboard rubber is original and they’re in very good condition however they are hard. Does anybody recommend a treatment to keep them from getting any harder, cracking and falling apart? I don’t plan on buying new rubber for them anytime soon. Would like to keep it as is. Lynn
  18. In a conversation with Ray Theriault I mentioned if there were any replacements for the front shock, he mentioned that usually nobody changes them. But to me they look like shock rubbers mounts. I would be willing to bet you could find something close in a shock absorber rubber mount. 1940 Bantam uses a couple of rubber mounts like that for the rear mounts that are the same as shock absorbers. I’ll look tomorrow and measure them to see if they’re close. L
  19. Matt It sounds like you took a peek at them and if they look good you will be OK, I could tell on mine they were not doing a good job, I think over 50% of them were leaking a bit so I just did it. It is a lousy job for an older man to do in the car, It took me a while, I have a crappy back and it wasn't happy. On the heads, if they are not badly eroded around the water ports and if you have access to a hot water parts washer they will be OK. I will attached a photo of what they look like inside, just flush a lot of water through them. They can be eroded a little , place a head gasket on them and if it sits on good metal you are fine. If I lived closer I would help you put it together. Anything I can do to help let me know. One other thought when you wash them ion a parts washer it takes the shine off them so they need to be polished again, if they were in good shape some poling compound with a foam buffing pad works great. Lynn The heads are cut right down the center with it sitting on it's edge, this is one of Ernie Fosters cast heads, from what I can tell and see inside the originals are made the same, makes since.
  20. Hi Matt. Looks like you’re making some headway on that Lincoln. Did you do a compression check before you tore it down? I know when I went into mine I figured I’m this far I’m gonna pull the valves and do a valve job I had one valve that was bent so bad I didn’t know how it was sealing, barely maybe. All of my cylinders are now up to 100 to 118 pounds. I think it’s worth doing while you’re there I hate to say that, I don’t know if you can do it yourself or not. I have a machine and have done them before so and it’s a miserable job in the car. If the Engine is out of the car and on a stand it should be fairly easy. Just a thought, may not be necessary if you did a compression check before and it looked good. Lynn
  21. Well I re-torqued everything for the third time the other day, barely got any turns on any of the nuts maybe three or 4° in a couple. So it’s settling down good I’ll check it one more time (or 2) after I run it around some more. Runs great I did set the timing at 10° before top dead center and as you can see from the vacuum gauge I have a good vacuum I’ll have to see what I can idol this down to sometime but I had it at 300 RPMs and it was chugging right along. I did move it back up to about 500 rpm. Runs great has good acceleration now. Actually when I step on the throttle I can feel it sent me back into the seat somewhere which is good for a 5000+ car. I think it’s going to work out well. I have put on the list to take the generator water pump off and go through them. That and the starter is the only thing I haven’t touched. I thought what the heck might as well take a look inside of everything and see where I’m at. So far very pleased with how it runs. I think it’s going to be a very fun to her car. Let’s just hope Gas doesn’t go any higher. LOL. I’m going to have to take it on a few long runs and see what kind of fuel economy I get. I’m not expecting much I’d love to get 14 but 12 would be OK too.
  22. Hi Ed Thanks for the info on the water pump. I pretty sure I am not drawing air through the pump but not 100% sure. The Lincoln pump has an input shaft with a rope type packing and on the other end there is a zert with a screw on cap to seal the zert. In my case the zert is off and plugged with a pipe plug so it could only draw it threw the packing side, I would suspect it would be leaking water if it were drawing air from the packing side?? At one point I plan on taking that assembly off and going though them. It's the generator, water pump and the oil heat exchanger all in one package. Its seams to be operating OK at this point and didn't want to mess with it yet. I do need to drain the water out and put antifreeze in so maybe this is a good time to do it. I have attached a couple of photos of an extra generator/pump assembly. It's rusty but at least you an see what I am talking about. Lynn
  23. Well last night, March 28. I decided this was the evening to start the Lincoln. Had to pour a little fuel down the carburetor to prime everything but it lit right off and ran like a Swiss watch. I let it run for a while, probably 10 minutes at a semi-fast idle I watch the shutter system open up at 140° and I ran it for probably 30 minutes the outlet temperature was 193 check with an infrared gun. Shut it off let it sit for 10 minutes flip the switch on and bumped the starter button and it fired right off. Very happy. This evening I re-torqued the intake manifold the intake/exhaust manifolds and the heads. Glad I did the heads again. I probably got anywhere from 30 to 90° of turn on each nut. It’s very quiet mechanically. Idols very nice. Tomorrow I’ll put a vacuum gauge on the carburetor and check ignition timing, I’ll probably put it at 10° before top dead center and advance a few degrees from there to find its best performance. I’m a happy camper. I am posting this from my iPhone so I hope it displays OK. I’ll check it sometime in the next 24 hours on the PC to make sure it does. Lynn
  24. Thanks Ed. You know most of the issues I had with this car is where someone cut a corner for the fix or maintenance 😞
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