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AB-Buff

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Everything posted by AB-Buff

  1. Now that we mention coils that brings up another topic. I’ve had issues with coils in the past like, back in 1970 something. Where the coil was mounted to the intake manifold and became extremely hot and then quit and then when it cools off a little bit started working again and so on. When I took my Lincoln out for the last drive I was on it quit on me, which I said was the ignition switch. But I pulled the coil cover off and felt them and they were extremely hot. I’m wondering if because my switch had a lot of resistance going through the switch the coils were running a slow lower voltage and got hot? Does anybody know at what temperature a coil quits to function and at what temperature?
  2. You can take a day or two to wipe that up after it runs out. 😂
  3. Matt there’s a better way of seeing what’s in you oil. I send oil samples to a company called Blackstone Oil Analysis. I’ll hunt for the web address and posted a little later. Hard to do on the phone. You can send them an oil sample and they’ll tell you everything that’s in it, I did that with mine and it’s been cleaning up ever since . Actually my looks really good now after a few oil changes. They can tell you a lot of things about your oil, cost $30-$40 depending on what you ask for. I hope this link works. https://www.blackstone-labs.com/
  4. I don’t know if you’ve started to put those heads on yet but I would put your intake and exhaust manifolds in place with your collector or Y pipe installed. I think I sent you a procedure that I went through. If you put the heads on first it’s difficult to get the nuts on the intake and exhaust manifolds not impossible but difficult. Lynn
  5. Hi I am looking for a source for the rubber piece that fits up against the grill shell and the headlight bar. It’s a teardrop type shape. Both metro molded parts and steele rubber do not carry them. Anybody have any ideas? See photos
  6. Matt I'm having a herd time remembering exactly what I did but I think I had a rod that was bent at the end that I could tap on the race from the inside to get it to come out. The hub is just stuck together and after I put mine in the solvent tank I think it just fell apart. It may have been stuck from some type of gasket sealant. Just be careful and not rough with it. Took a few minutes to think about it some more. I think I put it in the press and started to press the inner race, bearing and seal out as one from the opposite side. When the seal came out with the bearing I stopped and pressed the race back in. Does that make since? Lynn
  7. Matt if you decide to run black walls consider the Excelsior Stahl Sport Radial | 700/750R17. I have an extra set of rims for my 35, probably going to buy a set of these for touring. Nothing like a radial tire.
  8. Matt I wanna say it was half-inch? I didn’t have any half-inch but I did have quarter so I made two and just put them both together. I put grease on them and stuffed them in there, it seems to be doing well I’ve got about 300 miles on the car and I don’t see any issues with it. Felt seals are pretty forgiving. I could not find an off-the-shelf lip seal that would adapt to it very easily without doing a lot of work.
  9. Hey you have come to far now to cut corners. You will see that distributor and you will wish you had painted it. So take a halve hour and paint it, easy to do now. You can mask the Auto-lite tag off, you will thank me later 🙂 Lynn
  10. Model "A" will not work, 1934 and 35 switch is very unique. It has a passing beam. Low, passing and high beam. The passing beam turns the passenger headlight on high beam while the drivers side stays on low. difficult to find
  11. You throttle linkage attaches to it also, this one is 34 has the spark advance
  12. I got this from James (Jim) last night, I also had another issue I didn't know about that Jim pointed out for me. He had me check the voltage at the regulator and at the battery. Mine was 7.2 at the reg. and 6.4 at the battery. That's a big voltage drop. He said to check the connections at the amp meter. Sure enough mine were finger tight at best. They are a real pain to get to but after changing the nuts and tightening them I fired it up and at the battery it now showed 6.86 volts, I was also charging 10 A. I charged the battery last night and I will check to see if it's a little better. I bet those connections on the amp meter were getting hot. Here is what Jim said. "Regulator is typically set for 7.25 volts regulation. Output capable of over 35 amps continuous. It uses MOSFET rated at 70 amps to control output using heat sinks. Problem with using diode for cutout is no one uses a heat sink to dissipate the heat. A 10amp , 20 amp or 50 amp diode all create the same heat. They all have 0.8 volt loss across them times current thru them say 20 amps would create 16 watts of heat. Unless that heat is removed it will soon get over 300 F and destroy itself. A diode can safely run at about 175F. I’ve restored Ford cutouts using a copper bar to mount the diode to and solder copper bar to inside of cutout. Case as a radiator to dissipate the heat. This can reduce heat by over 100 F and give continuous use. A good choice for diode is a schokky diode which has about 0.5 v loss which will further reduce heat."
  13. I haven’t gotten anything from him but I sifted through some old emails that we sent back-and-forth, it’s supposed to maintain voltage at 7.2 at the regulator and he sets them for 28 A. I hope it works like it does now for many years. I have 7.2 volts at the regulator, when I look at my amp meter I can turn the headlights on, low, passing and high and I'm running 52 cp bulbs on high and it’s maintaining everything on the amp meter, shows about 1-2 amp charge. It’s not going to over charging the battery. Fingers crossed
  14. It’s a modified stock cut out/regulator, now it’s a solid-state unit. It’s done by James Peterson, I’ve asked Jim for a technical information that I can post here. When I get it I’ll post it.
  15. Well so far so good. Turns off and on car starts car runs I’ll have to take it for a road trip soon. I just installed a new voltage regulator solid state. I love it. No more over charging the battery and it also keeps up with my headlights.
  16. Just laped this in a bit. Someone apparently worked on this before and tried to sand the divots out. They were a little heavy handed on that corner but this should work well. It’s definitely gonna last my lifetime. I will put it in a few minutes will see, I get to do a little more standing on my head. 🙂 I keep forgetting to mention that I made that contact area just a little bit bigger. As long as it turns off I’m OK.
  17. I decided to machine the pin out and make a new one for it. If it gives me any trouble the relay is going in. I have a relay in a 33 Chevy with a borg-warner overdrive. I must flip that relay in and out 50 times every time I drive it. I’ve been doing it for 10 years. Delco Remy relays are pretty stout. But we’ll see if we can’t make this switch work properly. Here are a few pictures of it. I need to sand it on a on my micro flat, I left the pin sticking up about .002 inch. Should work out OK. The last photo is of it in the oven with a thin film of epoxy over the top. I’ll sand that flat.
  18. Yeah I thought about taking it back apart and sanding it. I’m getting tired of standing on my head to get it out, it’s a really bad design. I may go ahead and put a relay in there and just flip the switch click the relay in the relay were carry the load. Still thinking about it thanks for the advice.
  19. This is what’s on my 35. I’m not saying this is 100% correct but I believe a slotted screw is the right way to go. Definitely not a hex
  20. Hi I am looking for another ignition switch from my 35 Lincoln. I have taken this apart cleaned it put a little dielectric grease in it and it still won’t carry the current through to keep it running consistently. Anyway if you have one let me know please see photos Lynn
  21. After Jack Passey had passed away, Mona called me and said I’ve got to get rid of everything here the scrap metal guy will be here on Monday. So I headed over the next day, Sunday. I was rooting through a wood bin that was about 6 feet wide by 20 feet long 2foot high full of pinenuts and leaves with some piece parts in it. I pulled out three of those water pumps and set them on the top edge of the bin. I got a call from the person that I was with me went over to the main garage got totally sidetracked and left with them sitting on the edge of the bin. Monday morning I remembered, called Mona and she said that’s where the scrap metal guy is working. I described what it was to her and she went over to see. The the scrap metal guy said he didn’t see anything like that. I’m pretty sure it was the first thing he threw in his truck and he wasn’t going to get it back out. Irritating 😞
  22. Thank you for the comments. I love the car. It fell in love with it when I first saw it. I did have one thing that happened to me, I’m going to relay it to Matt. There is a ignition switch, it’s leaver activated, it just puts the power to the coils and then you have a button to push for the starter. When I was about 150 miles into the trip on my way hone I passed through a town called Santa Nella, I got a phone call pulled over and shut it off, Chatted for a couple minutes then started it and pulled out in the traffic which was bumper-to-bumper for a short ways and it died. I reached over and hit the starter and it was nothing, it starts literally in one second. So I knew something happened. I checked for spark and there was nothing. So I flipped the starter switch on and off and reached underneath and touch the wires, there are two terminals, the out going wire terminal (not the wire) was hot enough that you couldn’t put your finger on it. I ended up flipping the switch on and off several times and it started, when I got to a better spot to stop, I remove the wires and looked at them, other than showing their age the terminals looked OK. From that time on they remained cool and it ran fine. So I have something going on inside that switch causing resistance. I’ll have to pop the switch apart and clean it, I doubt if it’s ever been done. Lynn
  23. Took the Lincoln out today, thought I would give it a good shake down to see how things are going to work after all the work I did on it. It was 175 miles round-trip. I have not filled it up with gas yet to see what kind of fuel economy I got. I’ll try and do that soon I hope. But I took it over Highway 152 in California which goes over Pacheco Pass you basically start a little above sea level and end up going over about 1400 feet it’s a freeway or highway and the speed limit 65 I ran the Lincoln about 63 miles an hour and it did real well. I fluctuated the speed from 62 sometimes 70 and back did not overheat didn’t lose any water and ran fantastic. The temperature was 86°. Looking forward to traveling up and down the coast a little bit in it. The photograph at the lake is San Luis reservoir. Man-made lake that they pump water from the Delta into it in the winter and use it during the summer for irrigation. They generate electricity when they drain it back to the Delta. Happy camper! Lynn
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