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AB-Buff

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Posts posted by AB-Buff

  1. 1 hour ago, m-mman said:

     

    While we are waiting on the correct information about this K engine I thought I would show you a Ford Y-block (292-312)

    The crank and cam marks are off to the side 12 teeth apart.. . . 

    So the IS at least one engine that doesnt lineup, and it is a Ford. . . . .

     

     

    That’s probably the only engine known to mankind that does that. Every other one lines up the marks. Ford did some weird crap. Fortunately he didn’t have time to screw this Lincoln up. As for the later ones I don’t know.

    So Matt forget you ever saw this one. You will line those two marks up like every other normal engine and you’ll be a happy camper.

    • Like 1
  2. Matt my guess is those two marks have to line up at one point in time obviously it’s a 2 to 1 ratio so depending on the stroke they’re either lined up or 180° from each other. You are two teeth off in my opinion and it’s two teeth retarded which would make the engine run very high speed but two teeth is a lot. When you advanced the cam gives you low end and retard gives your top end. But usually only do that by a few degrees you’re like 10° or 12. So Plan on lining those two marks up, I don’t think you’ll get any information that tells you different. I have never ever had an engine with the marks did not line up to one another at one point.

    Lynn. 
     

    I want to add that when those two marks are lined up number one piston will be at the top. It could be at the top of the exhaust stroke or it could be at the top of the compression stroke. It doesn’t make any difference but it will be at top dead center on one of those two cycles

    • Like 2
  3. Matt I don’t know if you’ve done this yet or not but I would re-torque your intake and exhaust manifolds and also your head gasket. You have heat cycle that engine quite a few times and if you haven’t done it I can guarantee you they are all very loose. I’ve torqued my intake and exhaust manifolds five times now, every time I do I think I’m not going to get much out of it and surprisingly they’re fairly loose the last time I checked the intake and exhaust they were pretty good. I might check them one more time to be sure but I have close to 21 inches of vacuum when it’s running at idle, if those are leaking that will lean out your mixture and cause it to run hot. I also found that the ones closest to the front of the engine were a lot looser than the ones to the rear not sure why.

    Lynn 

    • Like 2
  4. 1 hour ago, Matt Harwood said:

    OK, dropped the pan and threw away another 3 gallons of expensive synthetic oil with probably fewer than 10,000 engine revolutions on it. That offends my sense of waste

    Matt consider it part of cleaning the insides of your engine out. I think I’ve changed my oil five or six times in 2000 miles. You can add that up, it’s expensive but not near as expensive of the cost of a rebuilt engine. I would rather put a few minutes to a few miles on oil and change it just to clean stuff up.

     

  5. 29 minutes ago, 95Cardinal said:

    Matt,

    H&H Flatheads sells replacement parts and also offers high-performance builds of the Model K V-12.

    One of the "improvements" listed in their typical V12 build is a high flow water pump.

    If you don't find any obstructions and your pump turns out to be the culprit, maybe somebody there could help you identify what's going on with the pump. 

     

    https://handhflatheads.com

    I'm pretty sure that's not "K" Lincoln... Zephyr v12 different animal

    • Like 1
  6. Matt, thinking out loud I’m wondering if when you get your water pump back if you could put it in a 5 gallon bucket (or bigger) an put the drive end of the pump up and somehow drive that with a drill press motor or even half-inch drive drill just to see if it will pump water. It should circulate some water even at a low shaft speed… I’d love to know what the person thought was possibly wrong with your pump when they’re finished with it. Don’t give up on it, you are almost there. I think it’s going to be a good running car.

  7. Well last month I drove the Lincoln from Tracy to Soquel California and back about a 300 mile round-trip ran great. Then the following Monday I ended up going on a Good Guys run to Sacramento to see a couple of car collections and a tour of Sherm’s customs chrome. Very interesting, the car collections were great. Here is a link to the Kettle Ranch LOC picnic.

     

    https://www.americanbantam.com/Lincoln-/2021-LOC-Kuettel-Ranch-Soquel/n-Q8VbHC
     

    • Like 1
  8. 2 hours ago, dalef62 said:

    If the pump was not working how did the grimy filters get so much crap in them?  Maybe there is blockage somewhere???  A back flow after the pump is removed may flush some of the crap out.

    I think what you see is when the engine gets so hot the water boils and is forced into the radiator it cools and starts to thermosiphon. There are a few cars do not use water pumps at all and they’re based on a hot water rises cold water doesn’t so it circulates. And this thing is generating a lot of heat so it’s a rather violent event. After a long trip in mine sometimes I’ll pull into the driveway put a fan in front of the radiator in a short time it will cool down because it thermosiphon‘s until the shutters close. Then I don’t have to put a hot car in the shop.

    Backflushing it wouldn’t hurt but I don’t think there’s anything in it. Matt’s cleaned that puppy pretty good. That engine is going to run fantastic when he’s finished. It’s kind of like Murphy’s Law anything that can happen well and he is just going through a learning experience. But he’s going to know it inside and out.

    • Like 1
  9. 2 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:

    It has to be the radiator. I've eliminated everything else. 

    Matt

    Talk to Lee at the Brassworks in Paso Robles CA.  It's not as expensive as you would think, very reasonable.  Heck maybe he can do one for me at the same time and get a bulk discount 🙂 If yo decide to send it there,  let me know I may take mine also, be happy to help if I can!

    Lynn

     

    PS he has done them for Lincoln before.  Also they are about 3 hors away from me so I can go there if need be

     

    • Like 1
  10. Matt

    I should mention your oil pressure with than new pump is fantastic.  I would like to see if it stays the same in the car. 

    Mine with a fresh oil change (5-40) is 30 psi cold, hot running down the hwy is around 28 psi.  After 300 miles it's around 26 psi at hwy speed.  10 psi idling at 450 -500 rpm.  All this measured with the gauge that came in the car so I have no idea how close it is, sometime I'll slip a gauge in somewhere to check it.

  11. 11 hours ago, Bloo said:

    And he has one of these cars too. That makes it even better.

     

    Can his run at a standstill like this without overheating? I'm guessing yes, but I have to ask.

    Hi sorry I have been sidetracked doing other things and haven’t been on the site as much as I probably should have been. But the answer is yes I can start mine up and run it and it doesn’t overheat. However my radiator has been modified and that I have to use a 4 pound pressure cap. If I don’t it will start puking water out like Matt’s and eventually when it gets to a gallon and a half to 2 gallons down it’ll start warming up. I may have discussed this earlier but when my radiator is full and you start it up it needs an air space so it will expel enough water to get that air space. The trouble is after it has that air space and warms up again it will expel more water because of where the overflow tube is located. It’s on the filler neck and water is rushing by it all the time, originally it was at the top of the tank. So if Matt’s  radiator has been modified like mine he’ll have to run a 4 pound cap. My plan is, this fall to take it out and take it to the Brassworks in California and have them build me one that will either run with an air space and no pressure or a good 4 pound Radiator that I don’t have to worry about. That’s to be determined. So Matt if your radiator filler cap has the vent right underneath it, put a 4 pound cap on it. Because you will never ever keep water in that radiator without it. The original radiator had a copper tube that came up through the bottom of the top tank and stopped at the very peak of the top inside. It didn’t see any water there at all so it could let air out and in without taking water with it. Hope that makes sense

     

    Also there is a lug that was used to fasten a chain to the To keep you from losing the cap inside the filler neck I fill my water level up a quarter inch below that lug and it seems to be good.

     

    I might add I drove this to the Lincoln picnic at the Ketel ranch that was about a 300 mile round-trip. It did great. Also last Monday I ended up taking it to a tour of a few car collections in Sacramento, drove it up interstate 5 at 70 miles an hour and back and didn’t have any issues. Yes it has a high speed rear end in it so it was only around 2100 to 2200 RPMs

     

    18F8C7AD-201C-47E0-AEC8-A79D89F16B15.jpeg

    • Like 1
  12. Matt i’m just remembering you had Lock and Stitch work on that block. You obviously sent the whole engine to them. Did you have the water elbows off at all? Could they have possibly stuffed a rag in it to keep water from leaking on their bench or in their area? Did you check any of that? Also I’m still thinking that you were just not priming the pump I think at this point I would surgically drill a hole for an 8 inch pipe tap, make a nice plug that just fits the ID of that centrifugal pump and not sticking up too far so it looks nice and slowly fill that radiator with that plug out, when water comes out of the top of that pump put that plug in and fill it up. But first check to see if they happen to stick anything in that engine. It’s possible some worker bee stuffed a rag in it to keep water from leaking out of it I don’t know. Just a thought. Easy to do without tearing anything down.

    if you look at the sketch of that water pump there’s literally 8 inches of air space above the inlet and the outlet. I’ve got a swimming pool and I can let water into my centrifugal pump and it takes it quite a while before it picks up water and flushes the air out , takes a lot longer than you think.

    L

    E817EF85-E13F-4403-9E7B-3C6FA8A7AB91.jpeg

    • Like 1
  13. I keep going over this in my mind and I am inclined to think you are just not getting water flow.  All those things you mentioned above in your last post might cause concern. I don’t think you can put the water pump impeller on backwards in that you would not be able to install it into the housing I think it would hit. When you had your water pump off, the elbows on each side of your engine that the water flows through to feed the cylinder blocks, did you happen to look through or push anything through that tube that crosses through your crankcase that water pass from one side to the other?  Maybe there is a blockage there?  Also on the driver side, that elbow has a fitting on it, somebody added that I’m not sure what that fitting does may be water heater? But I would make sure there’s no blockage there. Also I still think your water pump it is not priming correctly. Like I told you before mine was a booger and for some reason when I filled it through the radiator in allowing the water to flow through radiator first direction that it managed to flush out that bubble quickly. When you do that you cannot have the water lines pinched off anywhere, The engine needs to vent through the upper hoses.  
    I don’t think one tooth on your cam either direction would cause it to heat that fast, if you were running down the road pulling a long grade or something  like that I could see it happening. But not in the timeframe that you’re overheating. I believe it’s a flow issue. Somewhere you have a blockage or that pump is just not priming. Also Ed and one of his posts mentioned that at one time his water pump sucked the oil out of the grease cup and it sucked air into his water system. You have a grease cup on your water pump it’s not supposed to. it’s supposed to have a grease zert with a cap to keep it from siphoning. In the meantime take it off and put a plug in it just to see.

    • Like 2
  14. Matt just when you think you’ve got everything perfect and ready to go some thing else pops its head up and you have to deal with it. Happens all the time. Right now the hood grill and Radiator are out of the Lincoln. It developed a leak on the passenger side, a previous mechanic decided to put a bolt that holds the hood hole down clamp to the radiator side on with a bolt that’s a half inch too long and it went into the radiator. Hopefully my guy can fix it reasonably fast and reasonably inexpensive. But crap happens. More than you want.

    Lynn

    E6350098-4C40-4806-B657-D9E5C189B46B.jpeg
    I thought this was a pretty cool picture so I thought I’d post it.

    • Like 3
  15. Matt

    The headlight switch is a little hard to find as is all the piece parts to work it.  My 34 was missing all of it also and it took a couple of years to locate all the pieces.  Like you said, run it like you have it and just keep an eye out for the parts.  You may never change it out but the next guy might.  I tried to find a sketch of all the parts on the PC and could not, I will look far a hard copy and scan it for you.  Model A switch is a different configuration inside.

    L

     

    011.JPG

    1934-35 headlight switch, maybe through 39?

  16. Hi Alan. It’s a fun one. But just like Matt hardwoods. Lots of years of neglect in semi Standard maintenance. At least in the last few years. But we’re sorting it all out and having fun with it. How is your project coming?

    Lynn

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