JamesLay

here are my two idle tubes,the bottom one is hard to read but looks like 112S. it has been repaired. the upper one is nos carter. it is clearly marked 11 118S. its been along time but i am pretty sure i put the 120S tube that the book calls for in my carb.the repaired one is the one that i broke trying to remove it. it was in my carb. that had a tag marked 209S.i think 209S must apply to vacuum ported carb. being that 1930 did not have vac. spark control and 1932 went to carterBB1. so i am assuming my carb was tagged correctly.i dont know how to measure holes for you guys.neither one of these tubes are the 120S anyway.

make sure your spark plugs are clean dry and gaped right. before tuning carb. also check points for gap and pitting.new plugs would elimnate any dought.dist.cap, rotor, wires?

my idle jet tube has the smaller hole about 3/8 inch from threaded screw / plug.

i replaced that idle tube only because it would not come out to clean. it was pretty hard getting the old tube out and was ruined in the process.a parts supplier sold me a couple. mine had the # 11 118 on it. the orig. one had # 129 the different numbers did not seem to make a noticable difference in its running. it came with the screw fitting already soldered on it. the screw has a taperd seat on it at the bottom of threads. mine was a genuine carter part. i would gess that is not what is flooding your carb. i always blow into the fuel inlet (mouth) raise float up and down to check positive seal. i have heard of the seat its self some times not sealing in carb body threads. make sure float isn't binding (free floating) also 11/16 inch to bowl lip or less.don't know what to say about the choke mine seemed to travel up and down compleatly you sure don't want the choke not opening all the way. may be its binding on stand pipe or fork is bent.double check intake manifold.pull plug wire off and have someone crank starter hold had over carb throat should be pretty strong pull on hand. jetting is related to fine tuning not a flooding problem i would think.

my idle mixture screw is like only 3/4 turn from close or less.there is a acc. pump screw. it also does not need to be opened more than one turn or even leave it closed until you get it running . its the small screw just below acc. pump body.idle mix screw is the big brass one.also remember you will only have vacuum when throttle plate is closed.(very low idel} you cant use remote starter.it will only turn start motor.bendex is ingaged manually by foot control.to check timing remove pipe plug on cyl. head at rear cly drop straight coat hanger wire 10- 12 inch long down hole.rotate engine over by fan blade with spark plugs out until wire is pushed up to top dead center remove distributor cap roator should be pointing at number one cyl. wire post.if not loosen clamp bolt and rotate. a mark on dist. housing be for you remove dist. cap will help locate rotor contact . also I.D. tag on dist.should be facing you.after that in all in order with engine running you can tweek the timming with vacuum gauge to peak vacuum or (sweet spot).wile your plugs are out clean them with wire brush and solvent or replace them . check points .020.remember fuel filter . that tank is probaly filthy.

compression # is not that important,all cyl. should be equal 70 lbs.or more would be good.if you have a problem with a valve you will knowit .if avalve is stuck or leaking you could tell this buy just sticking your finger in the spark plug holes and turning over engine. of corse a very small leak would need gauge to detect.make sure you got the manifolds sealing .i don't know fuel pump presser i think there pretty low like 7 lbs. or so. i have seen people turn the intake manifold around and mount brand new down draft one barrel carb. and fabracate accelerator linkage . my orig. carb works pretty good but it took quite abit of effort and i still have a pretty black tail pipe.

my car did this until I worked on carb.i replaced float and lowered float level.(float bowl to full or nedle not seating completly.there is something to the vacuum leak.( leaking valves)up draft carbs are going to do this if they are over cranked. fuel has no where to go but on the ground.you should have a pretty strong suction with hand over carb throat while cranking.but yes i would check compression first all four cyl should be equal.

your float needle is not seating or your float is leaking. when i put a carb together i always blow in to inlet with carb inverted, lift up and then let float rest buy its own weight on the needle.look close at the needle and seat .the needle i got is metal not rubber tipped. its kind or hard to tell if a float is leaking.it olny takes a very little bit of gas leaking into it to make it to heavy.make sure float action is free.some times you can shake the float in your hand and hear the fuel in there.or put it in a cup of water and watch for bubbles.you can also weigh them if you know the weight or maybe have another float to compare weights.as to the rebuilding of these carbs the only seal is the bowl gasket.the accelerator pump has a leather seal that you can make from an old work glove.the idle curcit tube can be a problem on these carbs (pluging up) they are pretty hard to replace.also check your throttle plate shaft .fittmet (throttle shaft movement) to much wear will afect your idle and ported vacuum suppl y. the first thing i should have said is to check fuel supply your pump should have a sedement bowl with a screen.tiny particules can still get into float bowl . put a trans parent filter in line and see what you get. one tiny grain will mess with your needle and seat.

looks good. my muffler shop guy could not make the flat flare like that .

the muffler shop expaned the pipe to fit the cast flange , the clamping bolton the casting should hold the pipe tight. the small flare on pipe is a added measure to keep pipe from blowing out.also a positive seal.

about the exhaust flange.it's been awhile back but i think I clamped the pipe in the cast mounting flange and carefully hammered the edge of the pipe down into flange groove.can't remember if a torch was needed or i did it cold. i did have new pipe held in bench vice.then i used the heavy metal reinforced exhaust gasket mat. and cut gasket to fit i also used the same matieral for the manifolds . the first time i used the store bought gaskets i could'nt get good seal.i had machine shop surface manifold and used home made gaskets.the center section of manifold was badly burned. so when it was resurfaced a thicker gasket material in the center was nessary . ok i just remembered . my muffler shop could not make a tight enough lip on pipe to fit the cast moumting flange.( it was a goofy fit ) so i cut it off and tamped it over just enough to hold in the flange and seal to the gasket.

the carb has 1/8 inch pipe tread .you can get the brass fitting from a NAPA store. 1/8 inch pipe male to 3/16 female flare fitting. most orignial style vacuum controls have the 3/16 flare fitting.

maybe you could fabracate them from hack saw blades or steel banding material .I have seen two different styles of clip on stock hub caps i think this style must be later production .after market caps do not have spun over brass. as keiser 31 told me once.after market caps you can see plymouth logo stamped in from back side. on the earlier cap the clips where part of hub cap ( not removeable) maybe 30-31?

un bolt whole bracket from cross member from underside. remove two nuts under water pump. put wood 2x4 blocks on oil pan flanges and a long one across clearing oil pan maybe screw boards together to stablize. you should be able to raise up enough to remove. but i did do mine when i had the motor out and front end off.then and now auto parts did my mounts for 50 or 75 dollars apiece cant remember for sure . fan and belt need to come off also.

brooklyn beer, you can give me a phone call tonight between 6-8 mountain . i think this might take more words than i would like to type. 605-343-3004 james

okay, there are a couple of things going on with timing adjustment.the long screw going through dist. bracket (horizontal) is what you loosen to turn the dist inside the bracket.the screw that is in the slot that screws into the engine should be shoulder type screw.it should not tighten the dist bracket to timing cover of engine. that is your vac control movement.if your vac control is not connected you shouldn't need to do any thing with it for now.dist and bracket move together back and forth about 1/2 inch with in slot every time you accelerate from idle. ( with a working vac control) look up how to static time a engine and that should get you pretty close. or get a vacuum gauge on the manifold port and adjust to maximum vacuum.that is if you actually any vacuum.hey make sure your dist isn't one of those older mechanical types it may have been changed along with the carb. (delco 629 H is the only one that will work with your dist mounting bracket.that is what made me think your dist was correct because the mounting hardware looks right. there was a guy selling new repo choke and throttle cables in plymouth club bulletin . I brazed new cable wire to my orig. knobs and slid new cable housing on. lack of a dist vacuum control wont cause it to run poorly but a dist with out the centrifugal weights and springs working properly would not let timing advance at all.the 29 plymouth was just cable operated with a different mounting bracket you had to advance it your self as you drove. the PB cars where the same as PA but improved bracket and vacuum control and mounting design and dist housing is cut a little differently to accommodate new bracket design. vac control is only accuated when throttle plate is closed.to retard timing with foot off accellerator.

your dist. looks to be correct .629H is the right number for PA engine. plug the vac line on the intake manifold that one is for your wiper motor.if that incorrect vac control is leaking that could be why shes not running well right now. if it is working it is just pulling you to retard.( not based on acceleration.) the correct vac control is pretty much impossable to find. i rigged up a period correct chevy vac control. the vac control as i said pulls the whole dist about 1/2 inch clock wise only in low rpm. the spring in the vac control pushes dist back. the dist should move freely in the mounting braket slot. the clamp screw on mounting braket is loosened to set timimg. also that leaking exhaust manifold can burn a valve long term.by the way i ment to say nice looking car.

the BB1 carbs are alot easier to find and cheaper than drt-08 with vac fitting. but you will have the breather issues and the throat of bb1 carb is bigger accullay desinged for the three bolt manifolds. three bolt manifolds where used mostly on PB engines with the larger intake valves.PB increased horse power package inclued larger intake valves,larger intake ports larger carb. different breather.your correct breather is about impossable to find and if you do will cost way more than the right carb that is possible to find .i would look for the DRT-08 just because you have the breather.as i said the BB1 will fit your two bolt manifold and is a better (improved) carb.that you see on alot of PA's . carb mounting holes on two bolt intake manifold would have to be elongated slightly for BB1 to fit. also the manifolds can be tricky to fit and seal but of corse very important to get right first.

you should take every thing off, get your manifolds sealing. find a carb that will work with vacuum spark control. DRT-08 209 S. 1929 30 cars used cable control spark advance.the carter BB1 will work but your air cleaner will have to be cobbled to fit angled carb inlet.that vacuum line to the dist.should be removed for now you cant have constant vacuum at dist spark control.the right dist. will have weights and springs below point plate that advance the timing based on RPM's then the vacuum spark con trol pulls the whole dist. to retard timming alittle bit at very low RPM. if you dont have vac control hooked up on a good running engine you wont miss it much the cintrifical ad vance weights in the dist. do all of the work advancing the timing.the vacuum unit kind of relaxes the motor a little at low rpm .( reduce bearing load ,smoother shifting).

snubber, there is a small coil spring compressed in there. it's there to absorb shock and vibration to steering coulum and wheel.my car has one.and its a 32 PA.I was told they were mostly a 1932 thing.I have seen a lot of 31 PA's with out them.It is my understanding that a lot of the PA's were built in 1932.production did not start until june 1931.and 90,000 + where produced.I have always thought the'' snubber'' verified my car to be late production.I also found one side of the rear of the front springs shakle was a little shorter than the other.I always thought my dad put the wrong shakle on one side.but maybe the shorter shakle is to compensate for the snubber.shorter shakle was on passenger side rear of front spring. has puzzled me for years.

I have a 32 PA roadster i have owned since 1974.the right engine oil is a highly debated topic .i use heaver oils and change after afew hundred miles.my engine is rebuilt and crank case is clean so ithink i am going to start using syntheic oils.i do use detrgent oil.the throw out bearing is kind of hard to get to.shift boot cover pad and floor matt has to come up then metal center plate removed from floor. then there is a 4-5 inch tin cover plate on bell housing to remove.still kind of hard to get grease gun hose on to. i have done it only acouple of times once with the engine out.

below the drivers door. running board apron is kind of in the way.

filling station chevrolet parts sells a trim ring like that,you would have to call them for measurements. there like 28 bucks apeice . the part is in there on line catalog

I just bought one that was listed on ebay. its kind of ruff looking in the picture . i havent recived it yet . the one you have pictured is for a 32 PB .my car is the PA model.it will have the thin edge when looking at the side view. thanks

yes, thats the one.mine have a differnt style of retainer clip .are there two styles or is the hub cap pictured a reproduction? i have three old reproductions that have this style clip but do not have the spun over brass skin. they are stamped steel that are rusted with peeling crome. my 5 caps that i assume are original are just like this one eccept they have the square looking tabs going all the way around the mounting flange. can this hub cap be purchased ? i,m not fussy just wondering about the different styles of attachment. thanks for your responce. james