JamesLay

i have seen 1933 gas tanks ,for sale on line cant remember name of supplier if you search 1933 plymouth parts you will find him . it wont fit but maybe they can make one for you, or modify the 33 tank. they did not list 31-32 tank but that was 10 years ago when i was looking.

i had a welding and fabracation shop make mine, i dont think they are available, inever could find a new one,save and reuse filler neck and sending unit flange , a guy told me he reused every thing and just had a new center rolled, orig tanks where soldered together.i didnt put the baffles back in mine so my gas gauge floats around abit. mine is all mig welded together. i olny reused flanges.

my 31 plymouth PA had one shackle longer but on the rear of the front spring.PA cars used the trion style shackle PB do use silent U. i never could figure out why the different size thought maybe to compensate for front steering snubber on front of drivers side spring.or just a mistake. you having simmular issue does make me wonder. I went with the shorter size. my rear spring shackles are 3 1/2 on center.

The middle picture is a home made tire clamp and the two outside pics are original 31 PA's clamps.

I removed that plug and it was like 4 inches long.it goes over to the cam shaft, i was told the long stemed plug was aftermarket to improve oil pressure loss to main and rod bearings due to cam bearing wear. the long plug was only at the rear on my engine. ( thexton oil pressure regulator) when looking at at my spare engine block i don't see any bearing in the cam bore.

i was wrong about getting hoses from napa, i found them on ebay for 25 bucks, they are still listed but for 29 dollars now. guys user name is luchonota same name i bought from 12 years ago. they worked fine.

all three hoses were the same on my car. maybe i can find the invoice in my file for the part # it may take a day or so. i shure would like a set of those brake shoes listed on ebay by moparpro but 280 bucks a axle is more than i can afford. i think the orignial brake lines were copper i never understood why. i used steel, it might be a good idea to research what type lines would be best. napa only had 50'' lengths i had to couple two together to get all the way back to axle

there is a lot of debate over dot 3 or dot 5 all your parts must be new or very clean to change to dot 5. i used dot 5 in my pa 15 years ago, and every thing was pitted up any way when i pulled it apart 4 years ago. so i cleaned it up again replaced lines and hoses and all rubber stuff, i got it all from napa(they mached the old hoses), and i bought cyl. kits by size not make of car.bent the lines my self. and i used dot 3 this time.

i am having a new sleeve installed in my cylinder and new rings on my piston and would like some feed back on the finer points of lubracation. like how many ounces in crankcase? was the orignial oiler pump or drip feed (on 1904) how do you know when to feed oil to engine with the pump style feeders? i have heard 8 drops of oil a min. with the sight glass drip feeders.but looking at pictures the 04 oiler looks like it might be a pump . i saw a period ad that stated the oiler held 3 ''charges'' of oil for a 90 mile range. (daisy catalog) also how does the crankcase vent? is the small brass cap next to the exhaust valve guide a vent or oiler? thanks

hi all , i have a 1904 orientbuckboard and need some one to explain the oiling system to me and how to oil engine prior to starting,crank case capacity?crankcase vent,i do not have an orignial oiler but the 1904 seems to look like a pump unit not a drip feed.how do you know when to feed oil? thanks

31 jalopy, i do not have any seat pic's i made wood base and 3/16'' rod welded together for the back rests. front and rumble.the top bows i found on ebay 10 years ago .the body wood is not bent .cut ,shaped and glued.

31 jalopy, model a seats will not work, your car is wider . the top and top irons , bows are wider also i just finished a 10 year frame off restoration of the same car almost nothing from a model a will fit your car, my car was not nearly as nice as yours when we got. i built my seats from scratch. all my wood is re placed with oak. you have to use some kind of hard wood. because there is a lot of hole drilling for screws hard wood holds screw threads much better than pine and of corse a lot stronger . car builders of the day used ash because it was largely available and cheaper than oak.i think ash may be more flexable than oak.i got a good deal on a bunch of oak from a locale saw mill. thats mostly why i used oak. your car has a lot of wood. just the cost of wood and all the milling, cutting, and joining is quite the task to say the least. hopefully most of your wood is good. try to save all you can.i had to replace every peice. took a couple of years at least.

hi,D Feeney i made apair of hold downs that fit my PA. they are steel and un painted i would sell them for 35 dollars plus shipping.if you are interested.

broker-len i had a machinest friend turn the seal surface on the e-brake drum it was pretty ruff. he also cleaned up the brake band surface for me. i then took the drum to the bearing store with the old seal. he measured the O.D.of the orig. seal and the diameter of the newly turned journal on the brake drum and came up with a good fit of a modern seal. dennis cutsall re lined my e-brake clamp it was full of grease. good luck bob.

i thought coupes and convertable coupes had the all steel lids. only roadsters had the wood framed lids. i didnt know they would inner change.

hi, i made my frame also,you should go ahead and make a frame. even if youfind a lid it will likely need new wood. when you get the frame done. you will find a way to skin it.i spent more time repairing a junk lid than it would have taken to make my own skin or have a hot rod shop skin your frame. the frame is the hard part.

i have both PA and PB blocks they both have the same square hole round hole set up. i think the pump with the D shaped hole must be later pumps (PB) i installed the backing plate with the D shaped hole i had been running the plate with out the D shaped hole.and see if there is any notable difference in my engine cooling habits.i wont be running the car for awhile weather is still pretty bad here 8 inches of snow today.

the point i am trying to make here is that there are two different backing plates on PA PB water pumps. not just mine but also '' 31 PLY'' and i have seen mutiple PA PB water pumps with both types of backing plates.PA PB water pump is olny for those two years. the 6 cylinder water pump has nothing to do with the 4 cyl cars.i just mentioned it to try to under stand by pass systems. i am thinking one of the backing plates is an inprovement but witch one.

i already e-mailed tech advisor bob mcmulkin he didnt know. he just said either one will work and i all ready know that. he did say that it would not have any thing to do with a heater or not.

what do you think about the possibility of the difference being if your car would have a heater or not . the pump in the pictures with out the D shaped hole has the heater nipple on the inlet neck. the pump with the D shaped hole does not have heater hose nipple. the heater does by pass radiator.

Hi, i have both pumps on the bench now so i am going to run the the by pass backing plate . i had the one with out bypass on the car and drove it 400 miles last summer. on the real hot days the temp gauge would creep up when sitting still. and it seemed to float around between 160 and 180 degrees it has a160 thermostat.i have heard the term " HOT SPOTS" if you dont have bypass. the six cylinder water pumps claim it fit from like 34-54 and i notice they have external bypass nipple port.

no, i have seen the D shaped hole on one for sale on ebay in the past. these are not my water pumps. my backing plate is not very rusty and the hole is very defined. also if you look at the 1933 plymouth water pump it has the D shaped hole. I'am thinking if to much water bypasses not enough is going to the radiator to cool ,there for the pump with out the D shaped hole would be sending more water to the radiator. i saw those part numbers like you stated are the same. i dont get it thats why i made this post. i would like to know what backing plate to run. i gess i could try both and see witch one runs cooler.

I have 2 PA water pumps ,could some one explain to me why they have different holes in the backing plate.and witch backing plate would be the best to use. pumps are identical except for bypass (D shaped hole). the one with out the D shaped hole was on a PB motor the other came off a PA motor. the holes in both blocks are identical.

i put 400 pretty good miles on my roadster last summer .i think i got around 12 or 13 miles to the gallon. i ran it up to 57 mph . i can idle it down to like 300 rpm.my tail pipe is a little sootier than i would like but it did not foul plugs. i did get the vacuum control figuered out. maybe that helped . it has orig. correct jetting per manual for the DRT-08 209-S and my carb has the 209-S brass ID tag. maybe this is the answer .probably has more horse power and good gas milage. this is not my engine. just found the pic on line.