Douglas G. Brown

1935 Plymouth 2 door Rumbleseat Convertible FOR SALE. Location: Belfast, Maine, 04915 Mileage: 99,999 Transmission: Manual Condition: Project Exterior: black Interior: black Seller's Description I bought this car in the spring 2017 for a friend of mine who planned to make a street rod, but he died unexpectedly soon after. I have a couple of antique cars already to keep me busy for a few years, so I am selling it. 1935 Plymouth 2 door Rumbleseat Convertible FOR SALE. It is one of only 2308 convertibles made, out of a total production of 327,448 1935 Plymouth cars made (compare this to the 21,896 Ford 2 door convertibles made in 1935). It is an Oklahoma car, and about 80 percent complete. The frame has been refinished, and the body remounted in it with new bolts. Some of the front end components have been refinished. The body is rusted out in the rockers, roll pan, and bottom 4 inches of the rear quarters. Replacement inner rockers repair panels have been welded in place. The floor is solid, and rest of body is pretty good. There are old repairs on the front fenders, and there is some small rust out on the top center of the right hand door. The doors and the rear deck lid open and close well. High quality replacement parts for the inner and outer rocker panels, as well as the rear roll pan, are available from theplymouthdoctor.com at a reasonable price. The bumpers on this are are not 1935 Plymouth originals. Thre is no glass, interior, or top bows, but the side window frames are included The engine is stuck. The rear end on car is from a Chevy Nova. The steering column is not connected. Set of 5 nice 1935 Plymouth wheels are also included. This would be a good restoration or rod project for the dedicated Mopar fan. If you want to restore it , you should pick up a solid 1935 Plymouth sedan parts car for the many small parts that are missing or damaged on this car. If you want to rod it, build it to suit your taste. Either way, you will be undertaking a major project; but if you don't want to do this, find a restored or an already street rodded 1935 Plymouth and pay the going price for it. But, if you want enjoy restoring or rodding one of the few remaining unrestored 1935 Plymout convertibles out there, this might be the project car for you. Asking $11,500; price is somewhat negotiable. Car is garaged at my camp in Freedom, Maine, which is 12 miles down the road from my home in Belfast. I'll help load it on your truck or trailer.

bump.

I have a unrestored 1925 touring car, missing the body behind the B pillar, with solid drivetrain, and rusty body. It has the Chrysler "C" prefix on the engine number. It needs complete restoration, and a new owner.

I read somewhere the WP Chrysler disliked convertibles, and tried to eliminate them from Mopar's line in the middle 1930's. Unfortunately, Ford, GM, and most independents kept making (and selling) them. From a production point of view, building convertibles with the streamlined late 30's styling made little sense. But, convertibles lured customers into the showrooms. Sidemounts were a similar attention getter. But, the shorter hoods (from independent front suspensions) and wider bodies of the 1940s doomed them. Automotive eye appeal gets little credit form the Ralph Nader and Consumer's Reports types, but ugly styling is a sales killer. Well, not maybe nowadays, where many cars look like they were styled by entomologists.

Will 1935 and 1936 Plymouth Convertible Coupe top bow assemblies interchange?

Sure, post them! I think my plaque is from the 1950's. It would be interesting to see one from the 1980's

I found this plaque in a box lot at an auction in Burnham, Maine. It is about 5 1/4 by 9 3/4 inches, and weighs just over a pound. Anybody out there remember this club?

The 1939 Plymouths shared the basic body shell of the 1937 and 1938 Dodge, Desoto, and Chryslers, as well as the 1937 and 1938 Plymouths. 1939 Dodge, Desoto, and Chryslers had new body shells that were carried over to 1940, when Plymouth also adopted them. So, 1939 Plymouths could accommodate sidemounts. 1939 Plymouths were available in convertible sedans the same as 1937 and 1938 Mopars; which Dodge, Desoto, and Chrysler did not offer for 1939 or later.

You did a great job. Now, everybody will be wanting one!

A co-worker of mine bought a 1980's Chevy Citation for $300 at a Maine State surplus property auction. It had been last used by a social worker, and was littered with fast food debris. I helped him clean it out. A can of oil had been spilled in the trunk, and I removed the mat to clean up the mess. There was a pair of mint condition Maine State Police license plates under the mat. Apparently this car had once been used as an undercover vehicle, and the Troopers had forgotten to retrieve the plates from the car when it was returned to the state vehicle pool. I got the plates for helping to clean the car, and they are still in my Maine plate collection. Also found nearly a full quart of Gordon's gin when detailing a Chevy Nova another friend had just bought from a private seller. Since she was a teetotaler, I was able to dispose of it is a responsible manner. In 2004 I was prepping cars in a Bar Harbor junkyard for crushing. This meant stuffing loose parts into the interiors and trunks. I found nearly $30.00 of dimes in the trunk of a Dodge sedan. They had been rolled, but mice had nibbled the paper wrappers. The car's last owner had been a restaurant worker. Found a prior owner's divorce decree in another car. Amazing that people leave personal records in their vehicles. Found a 35 HP Johnson outboard in a Ford van. The junkyard owner let me keep it, and I later sold it for $300, which was about the same as what my pay had been for my prep work there. Never had any finds in cars that I bought for my own use, though.

So, were the B pillars originally attached to the rest of the body structure as in the 4 door sedans, or were they also attached to the frame, like the 1936 and 1937 Dodges? Bernie, I have a 1960 Electra 4 door hardtop parts car. Please let me know f you need any parts.

I see the "B" pillars between the front and rear doors are missing in the picture. I have 1936 and 1937 Dodge convertible sedans, and the B pillars on them are solid steel or iron castings which are bolted to the frame. Are the B pillars on this car the same, or are they simply cut down versions of the spot welded together hollow sheet steel ones like in the 4 door 1938 Buick sedans? A fellow a few miles down the road from my camp has one of the 1938 Buick 4 door sedans, which looks like would be a decent donor car. I don't see any B pillars in the picture of the ebay convertible, nor the bulkhead between front and back seat. What I am asking is, can the B pillars for the 1938 Buick be made by cutting down the ones from a 4 door sedan, or are they unique to the convertible sedan body, as they are in the 1936 and 1937 Dodges?

1938 Buick Special Convertible Sedan PROJECT on ebay. Located in Upstate New York. Title is "1938 Buick Special 4 door convertible", ebay number is 401281203957 (I don't know how to put the link in here) Not for the fainthearted, but there is a lot to work with here, if you have a 38 sedan donor car.

Nice pictures of a classy looking car. Well worth the wait.

Larry, I don't have a 1920's Buick, so I won't need any of these handles. But, I do have a casting project in mind, and I see that you are using a foundry in Maine. Since I live in Maine, could you tell me the name and location of the foundry? As soon as the snow melts, I'd like to contact them about my project. Thanks, Doug

I'm interested in the wiring harness.

I have a fairly complete 1960 Electra 4 door hardtop out at my camp. it probably has this trim on it, but I will not be out there until after the snow is gone .... about the end of March. Please let me know if you still need this, or any other part. Thanks Doug Brown

Paul, I discovered this website a few days ago when I was searching for a 1940 Buick Convertible sedan. This site came up, and there was a real nice looking blue one with Ohio antique plates, and it wa ssupposed to be in Houston, Texas. The asking price was $13,200. I emailed the seller, and he offered it for less than half of that! This was his reply: I'm sorry for the delay in my response. The car is still for sale. Price is $5,400.00. The car is being sold as described, clear title, no mechanical issues, everything is in great condition and has been recently serviced. The car is ready for the road. I am working overseas with Gem Diamonds and my contract ends in October 2017. If you want to find out more details about how we can close up this deal contact me. I smelled a rat, but replied. He replied; Hello, The location of the car is Portland, OR. The car, the title, two sets of keys, manuals and some service history records is what you will get from the Aykam Transport Limited. The car belonged to my uncle who recently passed away. I arranged for the sale right before I left the country. I propose to close the deal through www.aykamtransport.com, in the most safe and easiest way possible for both of us. Basically, it's similar to buying a car locally, the money will be sent to their holding account, and they will keep the money until you will receive the car. After the car is delivered, you will have a 7 days inspection period before you decide if you wish to keep it or not. If you are serious about buying the car, I will ship it anywhere you want with no extra cost To be able to start this transaction you need to register on the shipping company website: www.aykamtransport.com Thank You Terry Klowss I replied that I could be in Portland, Oregon, to look at the car, and could pay cash, and arrange my own transport. He has not yet replied I tried several times to become a registered user of the site, and it will not accept any User ID I create. I see the site has a couple of 20 year old Bentleys in gorgeous condition for about $6000.00 each BY THE WAY, HE SAID THE 1940 BUICK I WAS LOOKING AT WAS A 2 DOOR! And, he forgot to white out the rear license plate OH, IF ANY OF YOU KNOW WHO ACTUALLY OWNS THIS CAR, I'D LIKE TO KNOW WHERE IT IS, ESPECIALLY IF HE OR SHE IS CONSIDERING SELLING IT.

Is light-classifieds.com a legitimate website, or a scam? I ran across it today, and some of the car prices on it seem too good to be true.

I drove many miles on these Rambler 196 OHV engines in the 1970's, and did a little customer work on them The engines were pretty bulletproof, but did blow head gaskets between cylinders. They lost power, and a quick compression test located the 2 defective cylinders. Changing out the head gasket was a simple afternoon job. A little gasket cement and a careful retorquing a few days later, and one was good to go for a few more years. Never saw one of these heads warped, as they were pretty low stressed. I think this engine came out in the late 1940's, and was used through 1965. It was replaced by a 199 that was longer. It had a wider bore, shorter stroke, and 7 main bearings, and looked like a Chevy engine.

I've checked Google images for 1924 through 1927 Oldsmobiles, and this style of headlights are on many of them. Thanks for your help!

I've added better pictures. Anybody out there recognize this?

PLAN B

A buddy of mine who was in the used furniture and low end antique trade mentioned that he had bought an old Buick hood ornament at a yard sale in Camden, Maine, for 25 cents, and would sell it to me for ten bucks. I forgot about this for a week, and then he stopped by my house to show it to me. It was a beautiful cast bronze "B" with wings on it. I paid him the ten bucks as fast as I could. After a some internet research, it turned to be from a late 1940's Bentley. Camden is a rich town by Maine standards, but there was only one or two families there who drove Rolls Royce or Bentley cars. A few years later, I bought an item where I didn't know its value. I Paid $20.00 at a country auction for a tray lot with 2 Maine 1948 Brass license plates and a brass instrument which I thought was a tilt indicator for the engine room of a ship. I cleaned up and straightened the brass license plates for my own collection, and tossed the brass "ship" instrument in my desk drawer. 6 months later, in the dead of January, it caused my desk drawer to stick. I fished it out, looked at it, and determined it was a incline gauge to mount on a wooden car dashboard to gauge the steepness of a hill. I put it on ebay for a $20 opening bid, hoping to "get my bait back" for the 2 license plates. Each day, the price seemed to rise about $100. The final bid was just over $800.00, and the winner was gentleman in Connecticut. He told me that he was going to install it on the dashboard of his Packard touring car, which I recall was about 1909.

I read an article once about the origin of WD 40. WD meant "Water Displacement" . The 40th formula that they tried out was the one accepted, hence the name WD 40. (as Sasha39 said in comment #2) This suggests that WD 40 displaces water, which would prevent rust from forming .... which is not the same as penetrating rust. What is that legal maxim that goes "Penetration, no matter how slight ... ? I bought (at a yard sale) a can of something called "Tasgon" which looked like it was from the 1940's, and it worked well: but I used it up long ago. I'll try the ATF concoction out. Ideally, the carrying solvent should be miscible with water, to actually "wet" the rust. This should favor acetone as the carrying solvent (it is miscible with water) over lacquer thinner, which is not. I think acetone is also cheaper.