Oliver Lincoln

Sorry, but Boos & Herrel have it! Already ordered it and waiting now for delivery.

Ok, B&H have it, so i will order it and the cap too. As i remember last time, i did't change the cap. I could seal the opening with silicon so no oil will drain in. I will report...

Hi Ken, ah, i forgot to tell: also new -but while writing i remember the rubber material also seemd to a bit weak to me. Are there different reproductions availlable? Or any known modification?

Thank you, Ken, but this fits ok. The spring is absolutely fixed in the crossmember wich is beeing hold from the two rubber insulators. I suggest, the rubber parts (renewed from boos & herrel) are a bit too weak, so its moving too much. Are there stronger ones availlable? Other way could be to mount some thick, strong rubber between the moving crossmember and the upper, fixed one.

Thank you Ralph but doesn't explain why the paint marks are at the crossmember. There must be a contact while driving and i bet this is not normal. Forgot to tell, that i changed the links to stabilizer and shocks, too. Same as several bushings.

My car alway makes loaud noises if i drive through holes in the street. I found out that the ubolts knock at the crossmember. refer to photo crossmember-front.jpg. I did the yellow paint onto the bolts only and after driving there are yellow marks at the crossmember, too. For comparison refer to photo crossmember-back.jpg. There is much more space (the yellow lines show it.) I already changed the frame insulations last year, they look as new. Can someone see if the crossmember or some other parts is not original? As the rear axle crossmember is some special part for lowering (refer photo). I know that because the original rear crossmember (looks different) came with the car as old part. But i suggest they lowered the front axle somehow (dont know for sure). I see that the nuts on the ubolts are very close to the end of the thread without a cotter pin (no holes visable). Do someone know that/if modification parts from other Fords are fitting to the Lincolns? All looks professional. Do someone have some idea to explain/solve that? Has anyone photos of his axle? Oliver

Ok tom, you are absolutely right, i probably will change them every 10 years 🙂 Thank you Oliver

Thank you guys for your feedback. My intend for an eletronic system was the difficulty to adjust and replace the contacts. Its almost impossible to check them inside the car, and still not sure if its really correct. So it seems to be a choice: 12V and electronic ignition or 6V and stock contacts. Ok, for the moment i keep it at 6V and order some new contacts. Oliver

First success: I disasembled the distributor from the car and checked the timing as described in the service manual with two metal rulers. First i found that the breaker points are a bit burnt, then the timing was much too late. i could see it at the manual timing screw. Sync was ok. For now it runs much smoother but i ordered new contacts anyway. I found a pertronix kit for the Lincoln V12 but it runs with 12V only. I dont want to convert the whole car to 12V because everything goes fine and i have a quite new 6V alternator from Powergen. Does anyone know, if there is a 6V Kit availlable? (I know there arte 6V to 12V converters but in my opinion its too risky) Oliver

Many thanks, Tom!

Thank you, I am not trying mysel for fun but i am afraid, noone here in germany would be able to do it. The engine is currently running but i just wanted to check the timing once if correct. I have noticed it is running quite rough, never as smooth as i saw in some youtube videos. Do i have to adjust the breaker points also when the distributor is out of the car? I am not able to watch there to check them in the car. The pre owner or his mecanic have done a few things wrong earlier, so i do not trust their setup. (e.g. they used spark plags with a cone and external 12V ignition coils) These "tech tips" are availlable on paper only? No source in the net?

Hi Larry, where can i find these Tech Tips? Thanks, Oliver

Thank you, Abe, but you gave me the basic info i needed.

After 5 months break, i've just finished my conversion. It was a bit tricky to order all needed mechanical and hydraulical adapters and hoses. questions are welcome Oliver

Thanks again, Abe! I was afraid, there isn't enough hight behind the Frame, where the stock MC is mounted. Because the booster is much larger than the old MC. The position of the pushrod comes much lower then. does this work with the stock pedal and pushrod? Shall i order the summit booster, or is scott drake, classic performance better quality? Dont want to safe money for less security. Oliver