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Everything posted by searle1965@gmail.com

  1. Wow, Gary! I guess I couldn't have asked for a better response to my question. Pictures and the whole nine yards! I thank you very much. Dynaflash, will I have any of your '39 concerns with my '38? I thank you also. Tyler
  2. Got the engine out for a rebuild and figured I may as well take the trans. out and check it over, new seals if nothing else. Any tricks to removing the trans., before I break something? Anything else I should be doing at this point? Tyler
  3. Hi Marv . The car is a series 40, 1938 which, I understand are different than most 248 mains. Tyler
  4. Title says it all . Need new standard size main bearings for a '38 248 and can't find any. Anybody got anything out there? Thanks . Tyler
  5. I can get tires that are 30" in diameter for 15" rims, about the same as the 16" tires. What would I be gaining by going with 16" rims? Besides that , my rims are already finished. Thanks for the advise, everyone.
  6. These are the rims that are on my '38 Buick. The first picture is a rear rim, the second picture is the front. They are different because they take different hubcaps. Previous owner said it was like this when he bought it.
  7. So how would I tell if I have correct '38 Century wheels. I can probably post a picture tomorrow some time, car show tonight, parade tomorrow .
  8. They are 15" wheels so it looks like I'm going with 750-15 Lester white walls, they're about 30" in diameter which is about 4" bigger than what is on it now. That should give me a little less rpm's. Make sense ?
  9. Anyone know what the tallest 15" whitewall tire available is ? Can't afford an overdrive right now so looking for all the help I can get from the tires. Previous owner put on a new set of very low profile tires so anything will be an improvement. Thanks . Tyler
  10. Ok, got the engine out but it didn't want to separate from the tranny very well. If I would have read the comments here, I would have taken them out together. Hope I didn't break anything. There is some metal ring that's come off between the engine and trans., looks like it goes around the exposed bearing on the front of the trans. Is this supposed to be loose? It's about 2" in diameter. should I pull the trans. out and attach it to the engine before putting the engine back in the car? I'll be putting new mounts in the engine and trans. so everything sho
  11. Oh, another thing. What has to be disconnected from the tranny before the engine comes out? Any help on this much appreciated. Thanks again. Tyler
  12. I don't know if I did it in the right sequence but I got the hood sides off, grill is off but looks like the front fenders are going to have to come off, too. That appears to be the only way to get the radiator brace? off. Not looking foreword to putting it back together. Probably use a chain fall to get it out and then back in. Thanks for all the help, everyone. Tyler
  13. Was hoping not to have to do this but... Radiator is out, head is off, exhaust off, engine pan off. What needs to come off car to get the engine out of ? I can't believe I can't find this info by googling it but I can't. Hoping not to have to take the front clip off but ? Thanks in advance. Tyler
  14. Got the pan off , went well. Do you just take off the two bolts to remove the oil pump? I've got the stuff to rebuild it if need be. Would it be wise to check out the timing chain while I'm in it this far? I'm open to suggestions on anything that should be done while I'm in there and thanks for all the previous helpful hints. Tyler
  15. Thank you all for the comments and suggestions. Ok, so Gary says he had no. One rod at tdc while Dave says one and two should be half way in their cylinders? Is the firing order different between the 320 and 248? I started out pulling my radiator and getting it re-cored. It has turned into a complete rebuild of the head and now new rings, soft plugs, etc. I guess you guys know how it goes. Thanks again for the help. Tyler
  16. The title of my post sums up my question. I need to get the car up in the air some so I can fit underneath it to remove the pan. What are the best points to jack from? What should be done as far as the oil pump goes while I'm there or anything else that should be tended to? Thanks . Tyler
  17. The guy doing my radiator said it can't be rodded out. He said he will re-core it for 795.00 including tax, which I didn't think was bad at all, so that's the route I'm going. Pulling the radiator was not a big deal at all. Took off fan, hoses, thermo housing, water pump. Took off hood, needed another person for that. Got a chain fall set up to pull the radiator out because they're supposed to be very heavy. Took out screws on side brackets and moved the radiator forward. Didn't seem that heavy so I pulled up on it and it came right out. I don't think it weighs more than thirty pounds.
  18. Whoops, sorry Dave. My car is exactly like yours, a '38 Special. Cleaning out the block is on the list, too, just got my new freeze plugs. Tyler
  19. Pulled my radiator out and realized it appears to be a honey comb style. There went the plan of having it rodded out. Walker Radiator claims to have new ones for 685.00 but are they designed for the straight eight or a small block Chevy, I couldn't tell from their site. What other options are out there, brass works is out, too many horror stories. I've flushed this one repeatedly , checked the timing, new thermostats, took out the spring-thingy under the thermostat and then drilled holes through the base of thermostat. Nothing helps. Radiator fills very slowly after I've drained
  20. Barney, I think you nailed it. It's some type of after-market hill-holder or whatever. It's getting taken out. Gary, thanks for the excellent photos. You guys are great. One to the next issue. Tyler
  21. Whatever it is, it's not in any of the pictures above. I will try to get a picture of it and post it this p.m. I thank you all for the replies thus far. Tyler
  22. I dont know if I can describe my problem well enough for anyone to help but here goes. Replaced my master cyl. fall. Noticed fluid leaking again but it's coming from some gizmo above the master cyl. Whatever the thing is, the brake line runs to it and it's connected to the clutch pedal. Stepping on the brake causes fluid to leak out of this thing. I don't see anything like it available in the catalog, which makes me nervous. What is this that I'm dealing with and how do I repair or replace it? Tyler
  23. Thanks again everyone. A friend with smaller hands and more agility is going to attempt the repair. All the tips are much appreciated. Tyler
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