Jack Worstell

The 1937 and the 1938...are they in Logan ?

...where's the 1937 and the 1938 ?

Is this car located on Jerry West Blvd ?? Jack Worstell

I've always been a bit confused on the subject of when Buick went to insert bearings on the mains and on the rods I'm pretty sure that the rods went from babbit to modern precision insert sometime in 1949 ( so 1949s had babbit and 1950s had insert rod bearings ???) But the mains...I think this did in fact happen in the late 1930s....but these inserts were not the modern precision type...ie they still used shims. And in 1949 the change was further made to modern precision inserts...no shims needed. Do I have this right ??

the simplest answer is the battery posts. Check the connection of the heavy "hot" cable on the solenoid terminal. Also check the heavy copper strap connections from the other solenoid terminal to the starter case. All of the starter current...which is a lot of amps...has to go thru the solenoid so these connections really have to be good Is the battery voltage at 12V or so ? I suggest these in the vein of "easy things first" I suppose you still are using the original battery cables ( for 6V service )...these are plenty heavy enough for 12V use Jack Worstell

Thanks everyone for the advice. Jack Worstell

So ISO 32 is about 15W and this would be good to use in the shocks in a 1937 Special ? ( in other words...15W motorccyle fork oil would be about right ?) Jack Worstell

I've read advice that for lever/knee action shocks ( eg 1937 Special ) that motorcycle fork oil is good to use And I plan on following this advice.....but what weight ? 10W ? or 20W? or 30W? or what? Jack Worstell

Is your generator the three brush type ( uses a two element regulator) or the two brush type ( uses a three element regulator ) Jack Worstell

Dave....I have heard that you can take the field wire off of the regulator and ( with the motor doing about 1000RPM) touch the end of this field wire briefly to ground. If then the ammeter shows charge....then the trouble is in the regulator. And if no charge... then the trouble is in the generator This doesn't fix the problem but it does narrow the search I have never done this test myself...but I'm fairly sure it should work Jack Worstell

There are two methods for polarization. One for internally grounded generator field coils and one for externally grounded generator field coils. Your unit has externally grounded field coils. So......which polarization method did you use ?? Jack Worstell

Is everyone using the same notions of "short" and "open" ?? To me an open is a break in a wire........so that an ohm meter reading would go to infinity. And a short is where a wire touches another conductor such that there is an alternate/inadvertent/undesirable path for current flow Ohms would depend on between which points in the circuit are being measured but in general ohms would not go to infinity. Of course there could be an open in a wire circuit such that one ....or both........ ends of the wire could end up touching an alternate/inadvertent/undesirable conductor providing another path for current flow. When I hear "open" I think of infinity ohms. But when I hear "short" I don't think of infinity ohms. My point is this.....using the terms open and short requires a common understanding of what these terms mean So far as testing coils...I agree with Bloo.....the only complete test a coil is to make it produce a spark. Even if the ohms in the primary and secondary circuits check out OK.....the internal insulation ( trying to control thousands of volts) might not hold up under load. And if the coil also includes a condenser...... most multimeters cannot be used to test condensers.......and in my experience condensers can measure OK but still be unreliable under load When I want to check out a coil...I check the primary and secondary windings for correct ohms. And then if this checks out OK I still try to install the coil in a car and see if it will produce a fat spark. My two cent's worth Jack Worstell

So Marvel Mystery Oil is just a mixture of hydrocarban molecules ??? If so....there can't be anything very special about it..... Jack Worstell

What is Stoddard Solvent ? A solvent based on a mix of hydroarbons of some sort ? Jack Worstell

To follow up on Bob Engle's comment If you have the retaining pin ( and not the retaining set screw ) and if you try to remove it by drilling it out... be careful....if you drill in too far you'll run into the key cylinder and ruin it ( ....I made that mistake ) Jack Worstell

Matt thanks for the info. After reading your reply...I remembered the "new" way to get to these old articles.....I had forgotten. Jack

I used to be able to access the old Torque Tube ( ie 1982 to July 2005 ) articles on the internet . I can't anymore. I can still get to the index for these articles ( compiled by Frank Freda ) But when I click on a link to get to the actual issue of the Torque Tube ...all I get is an image of the first page ?? I can't get past this to see individual articles There is a ton of useful info in these old articles. I hope this info has not been lost. Maybe I'm just doing something wrong ? If anyone can still get to these articles.... ....can you tell me....... step by step ........what to do ? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com

Ben....do you know how I can reach Evan ? Jack

Morgan Can you confirm that the bell housing from a 1937 Special will bolt up to a 263 block ( from either a Dynaflow car or from a manual transmission car) ? Jack

Has anyone put a 1950s 263 engine in a 1937 Special ? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com

Has anyone put a 1950s 263 engine in a 1937 Special ? Jack Worstell

Whoops. Yes Ben ....... Dynaflow....you're right Jack jlwmaster@aol.com

I know there have been several posts on the subject... putting a 263 from a Dynaflow-equipped car into a late 1930s (esp 1937) Special ... but I can't find these threads. So... does anyone have the patience to educate me on what I would be getting into to attempt this project?? Thanks, Jack Worstell

Bloo ....do you ever give seminars at Buick meets.......talk about auto electrical systems and electronics ? Jack Worstell

Sandy.….thanks for the tips...….sounds promising, I'll give these ideas a try. A product I like is "Mastercoat"....which is also a moisture cured isocyanate type coating. (and It has the disadvantages of an isocyanate based coating.) It has a dull aluminum sort of appearance and it is "toothy" which means you can apply a top coat with no need for surface prep e.g. no scuffing with sandpaper. Jack Worstell