XframeFX
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Posts posted by XframeFX
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CBS News Clip on "French Lk. Auto Parts near Annandale, MN showing at least two 1st Gen. Rivieras at the 1:43 mark:
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White on Red:
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On 4/19/2024 at 1:33 AM, MasonLucas said:
1964 Buick Riviera Coupe White RWD Automatic On Ebay
$8000 OBO
This '64 appears to have few options. Must have been a southern car for it does have the important AC.
Strange how there's no Vent Crank on the passenger door? The Driver's Door has a large Vent Crank?
A total project.
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1 hour ago, ytr1903 said:
When I turn the left signal on, the front parking lights flash on BOTH sides of the car,
Lower Lights? To know what you have on your '63, you have both options, cornering lights and tilt steering column?
If cornering lights are flashing, isolate them for now by unplugging the 3-contact connector and continue your troubleshooting.
Keep in mind there was an instrument panel wiring harness change mid year for 1963. Not for problems in this area but to consolidate some options such as power antenna.
Switch with Cornering light option:
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3 hours ago, MrAG Riv said:
Installed refurbished Carter and it’s running well.
My rebuild made things worse. But then, I had my Power Brake Booster rebuilt at the same time. Too many variables. One-fix-at-one-time!
Engine bay looks great. Dual Circuit Brakes too.
Why no Variable Pitch hookup!
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On 4/1/2024 at 3:01 PM, Rafz66riv said:
Changing transmission gasket in my 66’ rivi. I noticed this wire that looks kinda messed up.
I just performed this patch this afternoon and thought I'd add some images to demonstrate my instructions.
Again, self vulcanizing Silicone Tape is THE stuff to use. The black roll above is 1 mil. I chose the thinner 1/2 mil Grey Scotch 70 since I wanted the wire to still fit inside the retaining clip which is what caused the damage (red arrows)
After disengaging the wire from the connector, I slipped-on a piece of shrink tube (Figure-2). It was my last piece of this size, the reason why so small. Of note, there's also shrink tube available that's lined with adhesive.
Again, three hands required here to wrap. Or, should've used my Panavise for a wrinkle free wrap (Figure-3).
Last step, shrink over that wrap which will sit inside the metal clip on the front pump (Figure-4).
Figure-5, Ready to re-install on the front pump after an oil stain on my cover.
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14 hours ago, jframe said:
He did a correct AFB for my '65 some years ago, and it's still running strong, and looked great out of the box to boot.
My retired AFB rebuilder did a "Quick-and-Dirty" on my AFB in his trailer park garage for $400.
Should've DIY in hindsight.
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2 hours ago, MY64RIVIERA said:
While comparing my original drive shaft and the used/new to me drive shaft I discovered that the double cardan joint at the pinon yoke may have been the problem. This joint needs to pivot from freely side to side like a teetertotter and should never be locked out in a neutral position. Mine however was getting "locked out" in the neutral position, thus causing the problem.
Ah, a follow-up, Thanks Robert!
Could be a common theme? The 1963 Riviera has a conventional U-Joint there.
I have a 1964 Drive Shaft assembly which is a core. Badly worn! Unreal how during manufacture they tacked-on a substantial lump of balance weights, four! QC back in 1964 should've failed the rear section and scrapped.
Took this image just now and yes, the rear flange is locked. Notice trim balance weights. Not a Trim Balance. More like correction weights for faulty manufacture!
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On 4/17/2024 at 1:16 PM, telriv said:
How about shining a light in the opposite end????
Wonderful how SBC support is perpetual. I replaced the rusted-out "Pinched Tube" in my 1957 RAMs Horn exhaust which is a straight tube ordered for this very application. I suppose an exact "Pinched" replacement is too much to ask for in the aftermarket.
Light shines through:
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5 hours ago, Brian Rossman said:
Rides fairly well, but still experiencing a vibration between 35 and 45 mph.
This is not the 1st time of vibration complaints in this speed range for 1964-65 Rivieras. People post the issue here but seldom do we hear a follow-up if resolved or not.
I do not recall similar complaints on the crude 1963 Propeller Shafts, even those that were shortened for transmission swaps.
As for this situation, try unbolting at the pinion yoke, rotate 180 degrees and re-attach followed by a test drive.
Perhaps this is not a balance issue as it appeared in previous posts. Maybe shaft angles? After 60 years, maybe the required shims under the center support bearing was left out? Perhaps a 1963 center support bearing was used in your Rivieras past? 1963 has a different height.
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On 4/17/2024 at 10:20 PM, 65VerdeGS said:
I have to pump the gas several times to get enough fuel up into the carb(s) to start the car.
Alex, here in Western Canada, Princess Auto in the "Farming" Section has at least two Electric fuel Pumps to choose from. If using just to prime on start, make sure it's the type that flows thru when off which most do.
Everyone should install a 2-Pole Oil Pressure switch in the Block's 1/8" NPT Oil Port. The 1st Pole switches to ground like a conventional switch. The 2nd Pole are dry contacts for if you want to switch an electric fuel pump, electric choke or in my case, a relay to power a sub-4-circuit fuse block. So, I have three 12V paths 1) Start 2) Accessory/Ignition and 3) Run/Ignition
https://www.partsking.ca/Product/BLU//PS133
On 4/18/2024 at 9:08 AM, dr914 said:fuel injection, disc brakes, quick ratio steering, and bilstein shocks are certainly the way to go if one wants to do worthwhile modifications for better driving and performance and handling
Except for disc brakes, this was my plan, especially bolt-in Bilstein Shocks. Add to that for those of us with '63s: Dynaflow to an OD or at least a more responsive transmission. I've done none of that. Too busy troubleshooting the Nailhead. Soft & Spongey Motor Mounts on my list too.
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On 4/16/2024 at 3:16 PM, LarryDolphins said:
Do you happen to know any Qjet experts in the Los Angeles area ?
Carburetor Exchange and Carburetor Center are now one and the same in the LA area?
Carburetor Exchange quoted an in-stock 1966 Q-Jet, a 7041309 I think for <$500 a few years back. Last August, "DowndraftDan" at Carburetor Center quoted $950 +$500 for a Core I do not have. So, $1450! That amount will take me well into an FI swap.
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22 hours ago, Deadpurpledog said:
Even though born in England. . . .dont see constantly tweeking & repairing parts of the fun. I love the way it looks and feels.
Ha, meaning Lucas Ignition Systems in rainy weather NG?😝
I concur, constantly tweaking no fun, try 3X for practically every issue I encountered. WSW Tires, what a Fiasco! I'm glad I did not spring for Tom T's Steering Box. My Power Steering and the DynaFlow work fine. Need to focus on other drivability issues.
I concur, like your 2nd Gen Riviera, I could LOOK at the fine lines of my 1st Gen. Riviera for hours. Sitting in the comfy driver's seat that was re-repaired has a nice view of that awesome dashboard. Just don't turn the key, LOL!
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Center Caps (knock-off ears) have Tri-Shields for 1963 and the Riviera "R" for 1964.
Many more details documented in "Tech Tips" on the ROA site if you're a member.
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36 minutes ago, telriv said:
They listed for $187.00
Tom, Are we talking the same kit?
Echlin #25424, $57.09 CAD today:
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3 hours ago, Craig Balzer said:
Sorry for the dirty tires/rims - I live on a dirt road.
But you have a nice Garage/Man Cave - IMPORTANT!
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1 hour ago, Jim Cannon said:
I picked up a few kits from NAPA a few years ago
What is the best kit? They are not very comprehensive. I'd want ALL parts if I'm going to the trouble. Hot Idle Compensator, Air Cleaner gaskets (for both sizes) and more parts not in these kits.
If I re-do my AFB, DIY this time and no silver spray can!
Restoring not good enough. Need to tune and optimize the stock AFB.
What about that unique DaytonaParts Float Valve?
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49 minutes ago, MrAG Riv said:
first rebuild of a Carter AFB (second carb in 53 years
Andrew, good you DIY'd your AFB. I farmed mine out to local talent. His only attribute was that he had an ultra-sonic cleaner. For what he charged me, no big deal to purchase one and throw in a NAPA kit followed with silver spray paint.
Lots of dialogue on 4-BBL mounting if you search this Forum. You have the correct steel shim but incorrect "smiley gasket". In Summary, only two items: 1) Correct smiley gasket on the intake. 2) Steel shim stacked on the gasket. Then the AFB directly on that shim.
Further, if you plug the two holes, you can use conventional 4-throat gaskets.
I believe my final configuration has the shim sandwiched between a smiley gasket beneath and conventional gasket on top.
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1 hour ago, dr914 said:
I have always been looking for a perfect 64 console, even if I have to dye it. black
Being stripped down to a shell, I can see it's perfect. I have all parts as stated. The '65 console in my opinion is more fragile than the '64, yes, different.
With the latest trend to wrap interior hard parts in Leather, this console would be an ideal candidate. The wrapped console could then be swapped-out with minimal down-time. Same with re-plating chrome pieces, a 1-Day swap.
Images of individual pieces upon request.
All Parts:
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13 hours ago, Deadpurpledog said:
never been happy with performance and always had fuel smell.
And you tolerated your original configuration for only a year!
Never noticed enough to be a concern >40 years ago. But, can totally relate today. UNACCEPTABLE! That's why I was blaming todays fuel formulation which has my findings inconclusive. Enough research and tweaking, I want a plug-and-play product that delivers results. No more sticking to an original look in the Engine Bay. I already see the days of the original Pancake Air Cleaner are numbered.
54 minutes ago, carbking said:The key is making sure one's vehicle is running to potential, and then testing prior to the conversion.
I used up several sets of sparkplugs in diagnostic attempts the old fashion way with a vacuum gauge/timing light. Ultimately, a bung in an exhaust pipe for an O2 sensor for real time closed loop control to EFI, yes. For off-line with a carburetor, need to purchase a Wideband Air/Fuel Instrument and PicoScope to tune original equipment all over again for todays fuels. Original state of tune with original induction, NG.
My thinking is that I accept poor MPG for the few miles I do each year (Hagerty has a lucrative business with us!) But, when out on the road and even idling, I do not enjoy it. I only enjoy looking at it with the Nailhead Shutdown. Extensive mods to make for an enjoyable cruising machine? So much for keeping my Riviera original. An LS3 and OD transmission in the tight confines of that X-Frame?
Excuse my negativity. I resolved nothing with my Nailhead over the winter and no time this year. Someone sell me a widget that installs in 1 hour to make my Nailhead run right!
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3 hours ago, RivNut said:
65 console is the space needed for the 65’s extra gear (2), the diddy boxes are the same length.
I solved that problem by raising the 1965 Shifter 5/8" with it sitting inside the 1963 shifter. Chrome at the bottom of the 1965 shifter shaft barely makes the faceplate. I may have to touch-up the bottom with foil tape or similar during the final install.
Fabricating Shifter quadrant glass will be last if I ever get to do the swap.
Anyway, the complete console is available.
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2 hours ago, Riv Eng said:
2- Chevy, however, did not transition to the variable pitch converter for those years (except for '67) but rather kept the fixed pitch.
An easier way to define: TH400 for 1965, V1.0?
The TH400 started in production year 1965 and in three versions, Chev, BUICK and BOP/Cadillac. All except Chev had Variable Pitch as standard for 1965 - 67. From 1967, only Chev and BOP/Cadillac for GM Corporate.
!964 can be considered an exception only for BUICK with a unique valve body. Sort of a BETA version of the TH400. The folks there must've been chomp'in at the bit to replace the Twin Turbine. They managed to jump even Cadillac for 1st shot at the new Corporate transmission. Perhaps because the BUICK bellhousing was shallower thanks to the Nailhead Block. This would be easier to mate to a 1964 Cadillac block with an adapter in high-end models than the other way around.
I believe Chev never had a variable pitch TH400, not even 1967. But, any TH400 can be made into a Variable Pitch transmission if the case will accept an 8-Bolt Front Pump and that orifice. Later TH400s well into the 70s were watered-down with threaded holes for 7 or 6 Bolt front pumps. So, less likely especially when re-named the "3L80"
The TH400 is one helluva tranny. Just look at all the online resources at our finger tips!
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16 hours ago, Seafoam65 said:
Those three
parts, along with the solenoid that is installed on the pump are the differences
between an ST400 and a Turbo 400.
Purging my household of parts and simply trying to find a home for them. Any reasonable offer but has to be my worthwhile to prepare and ship.
However, I do have at least two sets of those 3-Parts. Only requires an orifice and 2-Prong connector which is available. I bent over backwards acquiring them in sub-zero temps for one set. So, $750/Set +Shipping
All 13" and need to install a -028" orifice:
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6 hours ago, EmTee said:
Apparently Florida Torque Converter can provide switch-pitch torque converters https://www.floridatorqueconverters.com/ .
Oh? When I searched a few years back, I was told "You're 15 years too late". But, "Bring us your CORE and we can rebuild it" - - - - - - "So, you DO NOT want a 13" variable pitch TQ? GOODLUCK finding a 12" CORE!"
No CORE, No Torque Convertor!
Didn’t lose it - never had it
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Someone mentioned a custom touch (Rivnut?) had black inside the ribs to detract from tarnish/pitting.