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Posts posted by Biarritz

  1. Are there any tips to removing the electrical connectors to the hydraulic assembly?  Due to age, the connectors are not very pliable and seem somewhat hardened.  I'm concerned about breakage.  A lot of the connectors are further secured by a metal clip (each different) and its not obvious how to release it so that it can be unplugged w/o damage.  Some connections are barely visible  -- Do those get unplugged "after" the assembly is unbolted from mounting nuts so you have access?


    Per the shop manual, it identified the main valve connector and pump/motor connector as ones with spring clip.  Where exactly does the clip get pressed? 


    For the main hydraulic assembly (figure 11), the manual states to "just pull to unplug", but I can see a metal restraining clip on the connector body (harness side).  How is it really removed?


    As for the pressure switch it does have a "interlocking edges" molded into the connector body on both sides (hydraulic assembly side of connector), so some kind of releasing force needs to be applied so it unlocks/releases.  Again, with the connector body on the harness side being so stiff/hard (non-pliable), what's a good way of removal?


    In general, is there anything that can be applied or sprayed on the connectors to make them more pliable?



  2. Hemi,


    Thanks for your reply.  I did look at the photos you had.  I hadn't anticipated removing the steering column.  I assumed that was needed to replace the brake pedal swing-arm to convert to non-ABS; but, I wouldnt be replacing the brake pedal swing-arm if putting-in another hydraulic assembly. 


    So I guess I'm asking if removing the steering column is needed for this swap?


    My TC is the 4 cyl Turbo II Automatic (I forgot to mention that).  I have a complete re-manufactured hydraulic assembly I bought about 2 years ago knowing mine was starting to have issues.  Ideally, I wanted to find a local mechanic in the northern VA area to swap it out; but no one here wants to work on cars this old and this uncommon of a model (I've even asked mechanics who do odd-jobs on weekends at their house).  Usually I get around that issue by doing the stuff myself -- but the hydraulic assembly is something I'd rather not do myself.   Knowing what needs to be removed on the topside would be helpful information too (as well as knowledge of what is still available (to buy) if something breaks and what is not --- around that surrounding area under the hood!)


    I "may" have access to a lift if one mechanic that I'm talking with now will take on the job (and thats a big "if"). 


    Another related question:  The symptom of mine failing is that the brake pedal will drift to the floor slowly when constantly pressed such as at a stop sign, etc.  I've been told this NOT the accumulator .... so what is the symptom/differences of an "accumulator failing only" and "hydraulic assembly failure"?  Releasing the brake completely and re-applying the brake gives me ability to have average brake again ... until it held down again and pedal will slowly drift to the floor again.  I am not sure if this good enough brakes to even drive the car to a shop.  




  4. The front bumper rattles (and vibrates) when car is idling.  This is a problem I had twice on my TC: 


    - About 10 years ago, this happened and the mechanic replaced the two front absorber assemblies/mounts w/OEM parts.  Problem was resolved then. 

    - Now, years later, the problem is back (right side of front bumper rattles and appears slightly loose again).


    It appears the bumper is loose at the exterior connection to the right absorber by observing through the gap above the headlight (while hood is open).  Is there a reason this would loosen or is this a systemic problem with the TC front bumper?


    Is there a good solution to this problem?  Is the TC bumper too heavy for the front OEM absorbers/mounts?  Are the absorbers prone to failure or loosening?


    Thanks in advance to any insight to this re-occurring issue...



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