EmTee

That sounds like the best option. I would favor a good used one over a new one in this instance.

Don't buy it unless you really like red...

Better to either ground the high voltage coil wire, or disconnect the "+" wire on the coil.

I like the udder one better!

Interesting to see side-by-side the developmental changes between these two cars that occurred within just six years...

Yay!

Yes, that's a good trick. In this case, I was able to flip the copper disk over to expose the unused side. The contacts on the copper bolts, however, are "D" shaped, so they can't be rotated like the newer ones can be. I was able to clean the surface up with a file and then shimmed under the heads to restore the original contact height.

That's good; it sounds like it may just be carbon build-up.

Did the 94 octane gas improve/eliminate the pinging?

The starter has been dragging on occasion since last fall, although the frequency of occurrence has been increasing. I checked voltages a couple of days ago and had ~5.7V at the positive (battery) bolt and ~4.4V at the bolt that feeds the starter motor (load) when this happens while cranking. It has never failed to start, but it sounds like something is grinding when it does this, so I want to get it resolved ASAP. I removed the starter yesterday and completely disassembled the solenoid. I found the copper bolts were burned, however, one was much worse than the other. (I had filed them both flat a few months ago.) The copper disc was also heavily pitted - more so than I remember from the last time I had this apart. I think the two copper bolt heads that form the starter switch contacts were not on the same plane. Also, I looked at the copper disc and the shaft that it rides on. The shaft was very dirty and felt like it may be sticking a bit in the solenoid bore. I cleaned-up the shaft with a piece of steel wool and used some electrical contact cleaner on a Q-tip to swab the solenoid bore. I guess the disc looked OK to me last time because I didn't flip it over then. This time, however, I decided to flip the disc over since the used side was deeply pitted. I ran my flat file across the virgin side and discovered that the disc was also slightly warped. I set it on my vise and gave it a couple of taps with a hammer and then dressed the virgin side with the file so it was flat. I then re-shimmed the bolts to give them both at approximately the same gap to the disc. I also addressed Bloo's comment about testing the two separate coils in the solenoid ('operate' & 'hold'). They are tied together at the relay. I unsoldered the two wires from the ring terminal at the relay and separated them. I checked continuity of the operating coil to ground and measured resistance (~0.5 Ohms). The main (hold) coil was isolated from the case (i.e., "ground") as well as the other coil and had a resistance of about 0.25 Ohms. So, I am calling the solenoid coils good. I also used a 1/8" drill bit as a gauge to check the pinion throw depth, which was OK. While I was at it I also cleaned the relay points with contact cleaner on a piece of cardboard and checked the relay point gap (0.031") and air gap (0.010"). I reassembled the starter and wiped out some shiny metal shavings that had collected in the bellhousing adjacent to the starter mount before reinstalling it. It looks as though the voltage on the 'hold' coil was marginal whenever this problem occurred and the solenoid couldn't keep the pinion gear firmly engaged while cranking (which explains the grinding noise). Once I had the starter installed and the wiring reconnected the initial functional test was OK. I subsequently rechecked the voltage drop across the starter switch at the two copper bolts (while cranking). When the starter was acting up the drop was 1.3 Volts - which is why I removed it for inspection. The post-repair measurements are: 6.3 Volts at the battery, 5.7 Volts at the positive starter switch bolt (the 'hot' side) and 5.5 Volts at the other bolt (the load side). Based on this result (0.2 Volt drop) I think it is now fixed...

FWIW, I just addressed a slow cranking issue with my '38 Century here: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/398748-1938-century-starter-solenoid-rebuild-kit/#comment-2544317

I removed the starter yesterday and completely disassembled the solenoid. I found the copper bolts were burned, however, one was much worse than the other. (I had filed them both flat a few months ago.) The copper disc was also heavily pitted - more so than I remember from the last time I had this apart. I took some photos and will write-up a summary of the investigation and repair on my "Me and My Buick" thread (https://forums.aaca.org/topic/371015-my-1938-buick-century-model-61/page/9/#comment-2544304). The condensed version of the story is I think the two copper bolt heads that form the starter switch contacts were not on the same plane. Also, I decided to flip the disc over since the used side was deeply pitted. I ran my flat file across the virgin side and discovered that the disc was also slightly warped. I set it on my vise and gave it a couple of taps with a hammer and then dressed the virgin side with the file so it was flat. I then re-shimmed the bolts to give them both at approximately the same gap to the disc. I also addressed Bloo's comment about testing the two separate coils in the solenoid (initiate & hold). They are tied together at the relay. I unsoldered the two wires from the ring terminal at the relay and separated them. I checked continuity of the initializing coil to ground and measured resistance (~0.5 Ohms). The main "hold" coil was isolated from the case (i.e., "ground") and the other coil and had a resistance of about 0.25 Ohms. So, I am calling the solenoid coils 'good'. I also used a 1/8" drill bit as a gauge to check the pinion throw depth, which was OK. While I was at it I also cleaned the relay points with contact cleaner on a piece of cardboard and checked the relay point gap (0.031") and air gap (0.010"). I reassembled and reinstalled the starter and the initial test was OK. I rechecked the voltage drop across the starter switch at the two copper bolts. When it was acting up the drop was 1.3 Volts - that's why I pulled the starter. The post-repair measurements were: 6.3 Volts at the battery, 5.7 Volts at the positive starter switch bolt (the 'hot' side) and 5.5 Volts at the other bolt (the load side). Based on that result (0.2 Volt drop) I think it is fixed. We'll see how long it lasts...

Marcus does nice work! And he just happened to have the matching windlace fabric - which really makes the final result look like it belongs there!

I just stand the coil on the floor and step on the end while unwinding it against the floor. That pretty much leaves you with a straight section of tubing.

Congratulations on the award - the Buick deserved it! Also good to see the Dodge is back on the road. The transmission repair was successful! What kind of oil did you use in the Buick?

The Buick factory did it. They should just be tacked in place. Just grind-off the weld, install the replacements and have them re-tacked. Are you sure the upper ball joints are bad? If they have grease in them they rarely fail. The lowers take the brunt of the load.

The ROI calculation: (Expected Unit Sales) x (Profit per Unit)/(Mold Shipping Cost - CA to TX) < 1.0

Is it possible that the 'crimp' style came along for '65, but was also used on late '64s?

Since you already have a '58, the '49 shouldn't be too much of a mystery to you. The biggest difference is probably the straight-8 vs. the nailhead. Check the usual things and verifying that the motor spins is a good idea. Aside from general rust, I'd check that all of the trim and interior components are present.

I'd probably try the epoxy, reinstall the tank and secure the neck. You could add a clear filter at the tank outlet just in case the coating begins to fail. That will protect the pump and carburetor while allowing you to keep an eye on it...

All I'm saying is the sealant film is broken internally around the damaged neck joint. That will allow gasoline to get at the metal/coating interface. Maybe nothing happens; or maybe that will accelerate degradation/failure of the coating.

Please consider starting a thread on the restoration over in the "Me and My Buick" forum. It would be great to document your effort while allowing the rest of us to follow along. https://forums.aaca.org/forum/58-me-and-my-buick/

And looking great!