blakew

Three questions (sorry if my questions are newbie...this will be my first time replacing bearings). 1) When replacing the main bearings while in-car, is there a special process I should follow to get the top half of the bearing out and replaced? 2) If my oil pressure is good like it is, should I even worry about any of the mains at this point? 3) I don't have a hand crank for my engine. Is there an easy to find, cheap hand-crank out there that would work when I need to turn the engine getting at the rod bearings? Or should it just be easy to turn the crank without a handle? Thank you!

Not mine. Just found it and thought I would share: https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/cto/5675857425.html

Ok, I'm starting to order parts now for "the freshening." I am going to be doing all rod bearings, possibly some of the main bearings (the ones I can get to while in-car), and all the rings while checking landings on the pistons, etc. All will be "0" over. Getting a head gasket and oil pan gasket set. Anything else I should be looking at replacing while I'm in it? Not really going to be doing the valves yet. I might at some point, but not at this time unless I find something major with the head off. However, is there something I should be looking at in regards to the valves at this time (common faults/issues)? Thanks, guys! -Blake

Sending you a message.

Had some time this evening and took the draft tube off to be sure. No blockage.

I have run a long pieces of plastic used to declog sink drains up the draft tube, and it went all the way up to the elbow going into the block without hitting any blockage. I was honestly expecting one or more of my cylinders to show a much lower compression since there is so much oil that comes out of the dip stick hole. Might have to explore the draft tube a little more too as I'm not sure that blowby is the sole cause of the oil coming out based on those compression readings. Also, not sure if this adds to the discussion, but it seems like the "knocking" is noticeable after the engine is fully up to temp.

Compression test Dry 1 - 78 2 - 80 3 - 82 4 - 62 5 - 87 6 - 76 Wet 1 - 100 2 - 98 3 - 88 4 - 76 5 - 89 6 - 88 (May have not got enough oil down in #5 and #3 for the wet test) # 4 seems to be the weakest and improved by 14psi when wet.

Ok, I think I have a decent plan to start out. I am going to check the draft tube first. I will check compression first and foremost when I can. Secondly, I will probably work on replacing the rod bearings and perhaps the rings (inspecting the pistons too). I may do this in stages though. At least start with the bearings and wait on the pistons for later, or maybe I'll do them all at once. After I take care of those things, I will see how the oil burn is and see if there's still smoke on deceleration, I will get to the valves. I will update this post for others' reference as I go forward. May be a few months, but we will see. Andy Bernbaum's site seems to have most parts except for that pesky head gasket. Any good pointers on finding head gaskets out there? Thanks!

DodgeKCL: Thanks for the feedback! In your opinion, would running the car until winter cause too much wear on the crank, or should I shoot for doing this sooner rather than later? Also, not wanting to take the engine out at this time, how big of a deal is replacing valve guides with the engine in the car? Definitely have some worn ones with the excess smoke on deceleration (as mentioned by RageRacing above).

I have not had a chance to do a compression test, but I did want to add that the oil on the side of the block is not coming out of the oil fill as I had initially thought. After doing some driving this weekend, all of the oil is coming from the dip stick hole. It gets blown up to the area behind where the oil filter would have gone. There is no seal on the dip stick, but even with one, that seems like a lot of oil coming out from around the dip stick. Excess pressure in the crankcase from blow-by perhaps? Also, the knocking is happening under load, and it does not seem to be coming from the clutch area. I can be going down a hill or on a level area with the gas on (cruising) and no sound. When I am pushing the engine from takeoff or going up a hill that is when I get the knocking sound. Head out the window, and it is coming from the engine. To confirm (just because I paid closer attention to it this weekend), oil pressure is around 60 at start. 45-50 when going down the road and the engine is hot. Between 25-30 at idle when hot. But hey...had an enjoyable weekend out in it, by the way.

Compression check. Have not done that yet. I moved a few years ago and can't find my gauge. Will be getting a new one soon.

I need some opinions on my future course of action on the tired engine I have in my 33 PD. Oil pressure is good. 50+ starting out, and really doesn't go below 25-30 at idle when hot (need to re-verify the hot idle pressure, but I think that's close). Knock under load, but not when idle. Smokes some (white) - more on deceleration, but other times too - not really when under load. Has some blow-by - the area behind the oil fill gets misted with oil after driving Have let it at idle with a thin rag sitting on top of the oil fill tube, and I don't get any drops of oil on it, but after driving a few times, the cap seems to have some drips of oil and the area behind the fill tube (wires, distributor, block past the distributor) is wet with oil. It is also running rich right now, and that is probably due to the carb float having some gas in it. Have ordered a new float. The odometer has 67k miles. The engine matches the car, and it looks to have never been out. The overall car is pretty much original from what I can tell other than a paint-over paint job done at some point in the past. I really just want to drive this car around town with the family for the next few years, and I do not want to spend $3000 on a full rebuild (no plans on doing any touring) . What are my options here? What would you do? Is it possible just to refresh the engine (new mains, rings, etc while in the car without a complete overhaul)? If I can wait until winter, I could do some of those things then with the engine in the car (at least from what I have read). Or, could I just stick with it for the next few years with the light amount of driving I am doing? I just wanted to gauge people's opinions that have been doing this far longer than I have. Plus, I am new to the MoPar world. Thanks! -Blake

These days, if someone has an original, it could be scanned by a laser and then 3D printed. Or, it could be measured out, drawn in cad and then 3D printed. Some interesting options these days on stuff like this. Do you have access to an original that could be used as a template?

He did. It will arrive in Tennessee in about a week and a half.

By the way, that rebuild is going to look nice sitting in your '34, for sure. Very nice indeed.

Where can I get one of those Low Gloss Black oil caps?

I'd be interested in repop 33 Plymouth headlight horn brackets as well. Also, does anyone know if anyone is making the mesh for the trumpet horns? Thanks, -Blake

$125 for the single stand. Man. Is that an eBay dream price or realistic? And on the subject, how much should a pair of horns go for? Decent shape, workable. I've seen the eBay pricing for those too, and that just seems unreasonably high. -Blake

Anyone have any pictures of how the front bugle horns mount to a '33 or '34 PD? Also, something showing how they are wired up? Much appreciated! -Blake

I posted a few days ago, and it was a broad topic on what I am searching for. I am going to be a little more specific. I am currently looking around for a 1934 Dodge sedan (preferably DR). I just missed out on one a few weeks ago, and it would have been an amazing deal to have owned that particle one, but it just didn't work out. While I was looking at the 34 Dodge, I would also be interested in a 33-34 Chrysler sedan or a 33-34 Plymouth sedan. I would prefer something that is in driveable shape. Does not have to be perfect (couldn't afford perfect anyway), but I kind of want something to work on over time and still enjoy driving around in it with the family right away. I live in middle Tennessee, but I have had cars shipped before, so that does not bother me. Please PM me. Thank you for looking.

I am located in Tennessee. That would be too far to travel, but I have purchased a car across the internet before too. Will send you a PM with my email address. Thanks

I might also be interested in a late 20's early 30's sedan. Thanks again!

I am keen to find either a 1934 Dodge DR Sedan or a teens/20's Touring Dodge Brothers. If you have one for sale or know of one for sale, let me know. I would love to take a look. Prefer something in original condition but in decent shape. Does not need to be perfect, but I am not looking for a complete restoration project either. Thanks! -Blake