blakew

I don't know who this is, but it popped up local to me. Passing along to anyone interested. https://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/6349650556.html

This is a set from a '33 Plymouth. I think I may be missing a couple of pieces, and I have not found anyone who is sure about the jack. Either way, this set was found behind the back seat in my PD wrapped in a newspaper dated 1948.

This car has been restored at some point. Even the color scheme is not original. I also noticed that the bumpers are the straight style. Maybe it's not being billed as "100% original," but it's reading like that. Maybe "original" means it hasn't been street-rodded?

I have seen this PD on Craigslist pop up from time to time, but it looks like it's on eBay now. Anybody know this car? It says it is completely original, but I'm not so sure. The firewall is painted the color of the car, the engine has been painted silver, and the interior is just too perfect. Not to mention that the front floorboard has carpet (thought it only came with a rubber mat in the front). When it was on Craigslist, the listing said it was the actual car showcased at the '33 World's Fair or something. http://www.ebay.com/itm/252978928728?ul_noapp=true Anyway. No interest in the car myself, but was just more curious in the story more than anything. I like to see original cars when possible to compare things for originality's sake, but I like to know for sure that what I am looking at is really original. -B

This just came up on eBay. 5 1936 Dodge hubcaps: http://www.ebay.com/itm/292081179287

Apparently with my first test (zip ties), I still didn't have the lever far enough forward. I went with Tod's recommended method and was able to get the lever all the way forward. No problems since. Thanks! -Blake

Ok, so here's an oddity. I (stupidly) left on the parking brake for literally half a block and under 15 mph, and it started smoking. I stopped immediately, checked it out, and it all seemed good, but immediately after, the free wheeling started being on the edge of kicking in. I would pull the knob out as far as possible, but it wouldn't do much to solve the issue. I manually pushed the lever forward on the transmission and temporarily used to zip ties to hold it forward. However, it's still doing it. Any ideas as to what I should look at next?

Yeah. I blocked off the vac feed to go ahead and get that taken care of. I still need to get under the car, but I am also wondering if I can get a zip tie to hold the freewheeling linkage forward.

I pulled one out of an engine block recently that had a hole of about the same size that had been filled with JB Weld. Not the exact answer you are looking for, and it's definitely not the best solution, I am sure, but it seems to have held up for quite a while. Don't count this as an endorsement of such a solution. I just thought it was an interesting fix. -Blake

Thanks! I will try that. -Blake

Does anyone have a definitive method for disabling free-wheeling on a '33 PD? Every now and then, the knob on the dash will ever so slightly pull itself back in, and the free wheeling tries to kick in. Thanks! -Blake

Nice!!

Thanks! They stayed equidistant on the rear of the body as well? Thinking of doing a muted vermilion pinstripe at some point that would blend into the original fairly well. Here is what I can see on my car currently. I can also make that angle out at the rear of the hood enough to have it pretty close. -Blake

Looking to see if anyone has closeup shots of correct pinstriping for the 1933 PD. You can barely make out the outline in a couple of places on my car, but I am not sure of where the two lines go right after the hood, along the doors and the rear of the car. Thank you! -Blake

Looking for the helmet style air filter housing for a 1933 Plymouth. Thank you! -Blake

It was not an easy task, but I was able to secure them with a method that had been recommended via the Model A groups using pieces of strap iron. It took a while working in areas where I could barely fit two fingers at a time in.

Update! Back on the road! Took a while, but I did the following: Replaced the pistons with standard size pistons (Egge pistons with new rings). Replaced the rod bearings with standard size bearings. Kept the main bearings. The ones I removed to inspect looked good, and they measured just at the top end of their clearance range with plastigauge. Cleaned the carbon buildup on the head - repainted head - new head gasket. Cleaned all sludge out of the oil pan and oil screen and reinstalled with new gaskets. Finally got it all back together this past week, and I drove it almost 60 miles this weekend (sometimes cruising 50-55mph). Smoke is gone, knocking is gone. Good power. Oil pressure is still good. No blow-by out from around the dip stick like I had before. For reference, I got pretty much all of my parts from Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts.

Well, it's what my gauge was telling me at least. I'll get the other bearings off and see how they are at some point. The mains may be ok. I was having a rod bearing knock. Did not have a main bearing knock (yet).

Yes. I noticed the cross members was riveted in. I had to disconnect the drag link, and it dropped right out.

The crank feels smooth where those top bearings were. I'm not disagreeing with you, and my level of expertise is definitely in the novice category, but I may end up getting new pistons/rings and new bearings for the time being and taking the engine out later down the road to do a full rebuild. I have an extra an extra block with a good crank in it (although not original to my car), so I can always have those to rebuild later if for some reason this engine is unworkable in the future. Thanks for your response!

Definitely not me either. heh Thanks for mentioning that about your experience, by the way. That pushes me to the decision I need to make. I guess I'll need to get a set of 000 pistons too then. $Fun$

Anyone have a good source for piston rings that will work on original pistons? Was hoping to avoid buying brand new pistons.

Pistons #3 and #4 out. Ridge reamer worked wonders. The ridge wasn't too bad, but it would have probably caused issues with the pistons coming out for sure. Broken oil (bottom) rings on both pistons, but all others seem to be intact. #4 gave me the worst compression out of the lot, but visually, there wasn't much difference between #3 and #4. Top side of bearing for #3 rod was a little rough, but top side of bearing for #4 was super bad. About time to clean the oil screen too, I'd say. Pictures below.

I think pistons 3&4 we're suffering from bad angles and lighting. Here's a closeup.

Thanks! Any quick tips on removing the oil pan while in-car? Doesn't seem to want to traverse all the way out. Didn't really want to remove the steering linkage or a cross-member to get it out, but I may have to do one or the other from the looks of it. Otherwise, the head is off. I'm doing a little bit as I have time. Project at work and young kids means I get to do this in spurts.