hermanangus

Hi, it looks like the guys who did my car broke the nut and didn’t tell me. I was hoping someone had a spare the would be willing to part with. please let me know. Thanks.

Favourite shot of her so far

Hi, I am going through some parts I bought as a lot and don’t need. I wanted to offer them here first. -63 California plate set. From a Riv I am told. - offers - 64? Heater control valve. I understand these are hard to get. -offers -glove box lock. Operates well, no key- offers Shipping is from Canada, no handling fee, I tend to use Canada Post as it works out cheapest for the buyer and easiest for me. I also have a complete vacuum trunk release, a 64? Buick Tach, and a complete set of 63 wire hubcaps with spinners that will be for sale once I do some more research and get some pics taken. I also have a bundle of chrome, so message me if you are looking for a particular piece. Thanks.

Hi all, as I continue to work on my Riv, I find more things that were missed in the "restoration". The latest are the spacers and correct bolts that go through the fender at the end of the wraparound section of the primary bumper. (see attached photo from the manual) I was hoping someone had a set they would be willing to part with, or at least an clear pic with dimensions so I could reproduce them myself. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks. Kevin

Hey, I got the springs from Jamco. They are the 2” drop but on my car they seem to sit more like a 3”. I contacted them and the communication has been good, but I haven’t decided if I am going to ask for replacements or not. It looks cool, but it’s pretty damn low.

Car took a long time, first year of show and working out the bugs, there was some artistic licence taken by the producer here and there, but that is my brother every day. Had the carbs restored by the carb doctor after the show and the turned out great.

The seats,package tray, carpet and headliner were from OPGI, door panels from Clarke’s Corvair, installed locally. I actually did the work on the wheel covers and all the veneer work, but it didn’t make the show. Mike tried to bolt on some other wheels, but it didn’t work, lol. I ordered 2” drop springs, but they sit like 3”, might bring it back up a little

If anyone is interested,my brothers show Rust Valley Restorers is now available on Netflix. My 64 matching numbers factory dual carb Riviera is featured in episode 2 “Family Business”. Season 2 is filming now.

Hey All, I have the parts I need for now, thanks for the replies.

As far as I know you either have to have History Channel, or subscribe to their content on-line.

Hi All, if anyone is interested, especially in Canada, my 64 numbers matching factory dual 4bbl car was featured on my brothers reality TV show Rust Valley Restorers on History Channel Canada, episode 2 "Family Business".

Here's are pics of the ones on my car that was done over the summer and as part of my 64 restoration on my brothers reality TV show Rust Valley Restorers on History Channel Canada. First we had them bead blasted, then had the cracks welded, followed by polishing, taping , primer and paint. I think they are the coolest of the original wheel options.

Here’s mine. BQ code would appear to be a correct and original for my 64 factory dual carb console shift.302 = Oct 29,1963.

telriv, I assure you I will not just screw this to the sheet metal.

Thanks for the replies, this is the reproduction I bought. I guess I will have to decide If I want to keep it as stock as possible, or place it where It actually works for me, and let the next owner worry about the location. I think not having the mirrors makes this car even more unique, but after 30 years of rugby my neck doesn't move like it used to so I will probably be putting this one on, and reinforcing it as required. Thanks for the measurement Randall.

Hey Tom, I hate to disagree, but from what I've found, and what some of the other senior member have said while replying to my earlier post, mirrors were an option from the factory, or dealer installed. There is nothing spot welded to the inside of my door skins. There are what appears to be 2 filled holes that seem to be in the approximate area of the 63 mirror locations, you can just make them out in the pic above as well.. As my car was a special order from the factory in 64, I am working under the premise that they had some of the previous years pre-drilled door panels handy, and welded the holes closed . Could this have happened afterwards? Possibly. I just want to correctly place my after market mirror in the right spot for a 64. Cheers,

Hi All, I had an earlier thread on the lack of exterior mirrors on my car. The car is currently at the bodywork stage, and we have pulled the door skins off and there is no evidence that either door ever had a mirror attached, and the doors skins are definitely original. I purchased a replacement mirror for the drivers side, can someone please give me the exact stock location for a 64 drivers side mirror? I can guess from pics, but if were are gonna drill holes, I would like to get it right. Manual mirror of course. Thanks, Kevin

Hey Hazdaz, Bulbs arrived today and I ran out to the shop to put them in. Here are a couple of pics like you asked. This is probably the only option that I will get to add that cost less than the original price, lol.

My 64 has the same problem.

Thanks guys. I will post my pic in that other thread as well. I need to clean and lube all four window tracks and see how they work, then decide if I want to repair or omit.

Took the door skins off to service the widows on my 64 prior to a later in the year paint job( thanks to previous threads regarding T nuts) and found what you see below. Is this arm replaceable by itself, or do you need a whole new window carrier assembly as this appears to be riveted? is this a common failure? And can you replace the window rollers, as they seem to be rivited as well? Thanks for your time.

Not yet, I am waiting for the large 1195 bulbs to show up in the mail. I'll post some pics once I get it back together and some fresh amber signal bulbs in as well.

Well if your car already had the extras like mine, it will be easy. If I had to find a 9 pin switch and run the wires, it would have been a lot more involved.

Hey All, In the course of diagnosing my turn signal issues I discovered that my non-cornering light optioned 64 had the 9 pin signal switch on the steering column and the 3 wire connector hanging next to it.(see pics1 and 2) Further I did some tracing and realized that I was getting power to the signal light connector. So I hooked up two universal 1 1/8" tail light sockets(with wire extension through the connector, weatherproofing tape, and a female stab connectors) and Voila working Cornering Lights for about $12(see pics 2 and 3). I had to take a little plastic off of the inside of the light side connector to get the stab connector to fit, but other than that, easy peasy. It would be best if you could find the correct female fitting for the connector, and the original colour wires, but I worked with what I could source.(Still waiting on the 1195 bulbs from e-bay) I would guess that a number of these cars came like mine, just having the holes for the sockets plugged, and everything else there. Maybe worth a look on your car. Regards, Kevin

Update for anyone having issues. I cleaned and reassembled my switch, removed the external spring, and re-installed. Everything works. There is a little play in the column that I may address in the future, but otherwise good to go. Advice to anyone else doing this, be super careful not to lose the little bearings or springs, and clamp the switch together and test before bending the tabs back over, as it is a little tricky to get everything to seat during re-assembly. Good luck