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About Crahm

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  • Birthday 09/09/1964

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  1. Keep it under 50 to avoid the "DANGER ZONE!"
  2. On my '41 Graham, which had been parked in a museum for the past 25 years until I purchased it and began its recommission, I have broken two speedometer cables. First, the cable made a 270 degree tight turn as it came off the overdrive unit and broke there. I figured it was too tight of a turn. So I rerouted it and all was well until Sunday, when on a journey around town, it broke again. Both times it broke at a high speed, that is greater than 60mph. Somewhere there is binding. So I disassembled the speedometer last night and clearly, it had never been apart. This is a Stewart-Warner gauge. All the gears had dried, stiff, crumbling grease. But nothing too binding. Next, I removed the odometer number tumbler assembly. As I hand turned the tenths column, the mile column turned stiffly, but turned. But when I got to the ten mile turn, it was very stiff. Ah ha. So I disassembled the tumbler assembly, brushed and picked off all the old dried grease with gasoline (metal parts), and reassembled. It spun so freely it was surprising. So don't be afraid to disassemble your speedometer and odometer to get them cleaned and properly greased.
  3. I took member Rusty_OToole's suggestion regarding the radio in my '41 Graham. My father is a ham radio operator (only messes with Morse code!). He went to the Fort Worth Cowtown Ham Radio fest this weekend. Saw a guy selling hundreds of old tubes and asked him about someone to tinker on my Graham's radio. The tube seller hooked me up with a guy about 15 minutes from my house here in Dallas, TX. I spoke with the guy and he immediately said I probably need a vibrator, a few condensers and a couple other parts. Said it was probably a Philco by description and he'd love to work on it. I'm to bring it to him in the next week. We didn't discuss a fee, but I'll gladly pay him something to look at it and more if he can't make it work.
  4. I worked on my Graham a little more this morning. I now have the carburetor tuned really well. Engine idles, runs, and pulls very well. I tried to adjust the cut-in speed adjustment screws for the Overdrive. For the semi electric type of overdrive, the top plug is removed (tunnel cover is off), the rear wheels are off the ground, and a helper slowly rotates the rear wheel turning the driveshaft while I peer down into the OD with a flashlight. There are two adjustment screws, one a flat blade and the other a cross head. I was able to find both of them, but neither of them would turn tighter. My OD is cutting in around 30 and I'd like it to be closer to 38. A half turn tighter on the screw should raise the cut-in speed 3mph. I was able to back one off a half turn, returned tighter to where it was, and tried again to tighten, but it wouldn't turn. I took it out for a drive and in 2nd gear backed off the throttle and it shifted into 2nd OD, which worked really well for cruising at 35mph. About 40 I shifted into 3rd, which was in OD. One thought is to have overdrive out for cruising around town where I wont exceed 40mph. Then pulling out cable for higher speeds allowing the OD to cut in. But, I can't get the OD cable to pull out. I reached down next to the OD (exposed because no tunnel cover) and helped the OD lever move and then the dash cable moved easily. Why does it need help to get moving? I'll have to think on that but am open to ideas? Of course, the other question is why can't I get the cut-in screws to turn tighter? From visual observation through the top plug hole, the screw is about a 1.5" long and looks like it is tightening or loosening a clamp type arrangement. If it indeed is all the way tight, maybe the OD part there is worn and this is as good as it gets. Thoughts? thanks! Editing:. I read, again, the Motor manual pages member Spineyhill graciously photograph and posted in this string. (I downloaded the pictures and printed them on 11x17 paper for easier reading). Bottom right of page 205 discusses adjusting the cut-in speed of this unit and mentions it is designed to cut-in 25-35mph depending on application. So maybe my Graham is set as designed. The rear axle ratio is 4.09 I believe, although a book I have says an optional one is 4.55.
  5. Update: It has taken me a while to get the Hollywood back on the ground because I worked on several other things. I rebuilt the handbrake cables, had the front wheel cylinders sleaved, cleaned up the driveshaft and installed new u-joints, wiring repairs, a new pinion seal, adjusted shifter, adjusted throttle linkage, etc. This morning, while it was a cool 85F outside, I backed her out of the garage. Brakes are much better, stopping well and even. About 30-32 mph, she shifted into OD while in 3rd gear. I floored the throttle pedal, the enigne coughed, and she downshifted out of OD. As i lifted the throlttle, back into OD. The semi-electrical OD uses one solenoid, and its job upon energization, is to pull the pawl out, disengaging the OD. Upon full throttle, the kickdown switch closes, I hear the solenoid make a loud "clock" sound, and the OD releases the gearbox back into direct drive third gear. Points and question: 1). The OD linkage on my car was backwards - pushed in was out, pulled out was in. So i was running around with the OD off. Since I can't find a single drawing or picture of the semi-electrical type OD showing the passenger side levers for engagement, I wasn't sure which way the two pieces on that side were supposed to be arranged. The lever on the driver side was on the "underside" of the pivot shaft. Because of the adequet space on the driver's side, i turned the driver's side lever 180 so my cacle would now operate the OD while pushed forward on the dash. 2). I dont like the OD engaging at such a low speed. The semi-electrical types adjust their cut-in speed by two set screws accessible through a plug on the topside of the box. Apparently, each half turn is about 3mph, and clockwise turning increases the cut-in speed. The screws should be different styles, one a straight slot and the other a crosshead or phillips, so you can keep straight which screw you have turned while counting half turns. The turning of the driveshaft will allow the screws appear inthe plug opening. Takes two guys so I haven't worked on that yet. Question: "The screws should be set an even number of turns".....from? since I dont know if these are evenly turned out/in from either the factory or a rebuilder, can they be turned fully in, seated and then backed out an even number of half turns? thanks again for everone's help!
  6. Update: I've been tinkering, studying and thinking about the R6 overdrive in my '41 Graham. I started disassembly of various items in order to remove the transmission. The R6 is a "semi-electric" type of overdrive. It uses a centrifugal clutch to engage the overdrive and has an electrical solemoid which when energized by WOT, pulls the prawl out which disengages the overdrive for a kickdown for passing. First, the solenoid. It has a high current winding for the strong pull and then a low energy circuit to hold the plunger out. Upon testing, my solemoid didnt have a very strong initial pull. Bench testing showed the same 6 ohms regardless if the pin up inside the unit was pressed or not. I took the cap off the solenoid a immediately saw thw points were not touching, therefore there was only the low energy circuit available. I bent the bottom point tab up to close the points and tested again. Wow! Big magnetic pull! I reinstalled the solenoid on the OD and tested again. Finally a loud pulling click of the pulnger. I spent quite a bit of time wiggling plungers, levers, shifters, etc., playing with the OD to see if I could get something different. Well, now I had the plunger pulling hard on the OD unit, even though i had pulled it by hand quite a bit. So i though I'd try a test. The car is on jackstands, driveshaft removed, tunnel cover removed. I started the engine and engaged third gear. I raised indicated speed to about 45 and pushed the overdrive cable lever back in. The indicated speed jumped up to about 55-60!!!! I killed the engine, pulled back out the lockout lever and repeated the test. And again. Theory? Maybe the prawl was hung up inside somehow to prevent engagement, and all the fiddling and a real solenoid pull freed it up. It will be a few weeks before I can put the car back on the ground due to brakes, u-joints and a few other items I want to update while she's up in the air. i'll update later. charles
  7. WOW! Fantastic! This is how forums work! Many Thanks! I'll print these out on ledger size paper and give them a study today! If you make it to Dallas, I'll buy you a steak! I assume something is wrong with my unit since, with the knob pushed in, it doesn't freewheel nor does the overdrive engage. Another forum member, Jim, suggested the planetary gears are frozen. Charles
  8. First, it wasnt electrically connected. i need a wiring diagram for this kind of OD. I have tried bench testing the solenoid and I'm afraid it is dead. My OD doesnt freewheel if itt is suppsoed to? i dont understand how the semi electrical setup is suppsoed to send the electrical siignal to the solenoid. Seems like it require a dash power switch to flip on when at speed? thank you for your help!
  9. A few more pictures of unit. The Transmission says T86 A-1. Can't find a casting number. The OD says nothing other than "R6-1S"
  10. Yes, it is in a Graham Hillywood, but there are no known Graham documents or manuals discussing the overdrive. i need to understand how this OD works and need manuals ffor it. Can someone identify it by the number on the casting number?
  11. I'm trying to get my overdrive working. It is marked "R6-1S" on the side of the case. My transmission says T86. it has a solenoid marked Chrysler but there is no governor. - how can that be? It has a dash mounted pull/push cable. I pulled the tranny tunnel cover and the only item on the top of the OD looks like a fill plug. I'm looking for technical manual, etc.
  12. This past Sunday I drove my Hollywood to the Cooper Aerobics Classic Car Show here in Dallas. I won first place in pre-war class. Not sure how a Corvette won 2nd in class. I guess they mean pre-Vietnam war since it was a '62 I think. Car gets many compliments and people love studying the supercharger.
  13. I would like to convert my '41 Graham Hollywood back to original style headlight lenses. The sealed beams installed sit back behind the chrome trim rings and look unoriginal. I've never messed with pre-war headlight buckets such as these. I know I'll have to secure lenses and reflectors, but don't really have an idea as far as how it will assemble. I realize many folks won't be familiar with the Hollywood bucket, but I imagine they all assembled in a similar manner. 1) Is the glass lens held only in place by the chrome trim bezel ring? 2) The original lenses are round, bug-eyed in shape, and have a flat bottom, which I assume is to allow for space for the threaded screw of the chrome trim ring. If I find round lenses but not a flat bottom, how does one grind glass? 3) Do original reflectors screw directly onto the lip of the bucket? Picture of what I have now....sideways....sorry...... Charles Rahm Dallas, TX '41 Graham Hollywood Supercharged '71 Jensen Interceptor '76 Jaguar XJ12C
  14. The minimal insurance plan with American Collectors allows the policyholder to drive the car to work once a month, but not for normal errand running. Their next level up for usage is called The Freedom Plan.
  15. Insurance? I should be insured? (tongue in side of cheek)