rodneybeauchamp
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Posts posted by rodneybeauchamp
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And just a small update as we plan to drive interstate to the Australian Buick Nationals next Tuesday morning. A couple of “shakedown runs” after all fluids have been changed and more importantly, to showcase our new custom made number plates.
Big shout out to Tony at Southcoast Signs, a local signwriter who made our plates to perfection, replacing the temporary plates I made using laminated paper printed on a computer. These new plates use computer generated and cut letters and numbers fixed to sign writers sheet which is made from a 2.0mm thick aluminium - plastic - aluminium sandwich.
Rear plate neatly slides into the aperture with no alterations, the front just needing the corners rounded to neatly fit the Buick holder. Used a good quality flexible adhesive to fix the front plate rather than screws. And I think they look super smart!
We did a club run to Aussie Apricots and The Revolution Car Museum on Sunday and our usual Boys Breakfast run today (Wednesday), to Normanville cafe. Both were great runs with the Buick performing as it should, flawlessly.
And to cap it off, Jo suggested she should get some time behind the wheel today to give me some relief driving on our way to the Nationals next week. So we did a short run in the afternoon on some nearby quiet country roads. Jo found the Riviera easy to drive and felt confident about taking the wheel. Remember, we are RHD here, so driving LHD does not come easy. And the smiles came easy too!
Anyway photos or it never happened.
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On 9/18/2024 at 5:20 PM, Paul White said:
Hi All,
Seeking some information and guidance from you all concerning my wife's Buick and in particular the trunk fit out. Questions as follows:
1. Does anyone have a photo of an original trunk mat and are you aware of a business that reproduces them in the same hounds-tooth pattern?
2. were there ever any panels/ boards originally fitted to the inside of the trunk? If so, would anyone have a photo?
Thanks in advance
Paul White
Hi Paul,
2. my ‘64 and ‘63 Skylarks never had board linings in the boot (trunk) but I would strongly recommend that you add them, especially at the quarter panels. Otherwise when your full Esky slides across the boot floor on a corner and puts a neat little dent in the rear quarter, ruining your once dent free newly painted panel, you will wish you had!
They would be easy to fabricate with MDF painted and sealed or the correct trim board from an upholstery supplies place and held in place with self tapping screws into threaded clips slipped into the existing holes.
Ask me how I know this? ☹️☹️☹️☹️☹️
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀
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Hi Ed,
just for my two bobs worth, fitted Cibie QH conversions for both inner and outer headlamps. Stayed with the standard 60/55W for high/low and 55W for high beam but could have gone to 100W if necessary. Located in country Encounter Bay/Victor Harbor, ended up doing a fair bit of night driving or early morning driving to attend swap meets or travel to shows in Adelaide.
Chose to fit Cibie because of their quality and more importantly that they use a curved lens keeping an OEM appearance and not a flat face like Hella and other QH conversions which in my eyes always shout out that they are QH conversions 👎👎👎👎
I was very pleased and felt like I had enough light to spot our Skippy kangaroos which are our main issue here.
I chose to fit relays to both high and low beam circuits to ensure no voltage drop and to stop a high current draw running through the light switch. Also I pulled the switch apart and cleaned up the contacts and the dimming rheostat.
I also wired the second turn signal globe as a full time DRL and used a warm white LED. IMO I think the conversions were done well and enhanced the stock look. Pictures otherwise it never happened.
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀
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4 hours ago, Cman640 said:
Great point, I intentionally left it a bit broad to encompass a wide range of sub-communities and cars. For my project, I am trying to gather a large base of people. But as a general rule personally I would consider anything Pre '80s/ Oil crisis a classic at this point of time. That being said the car I am restoring for the project is a post-war 1940's MG TC.
Oh well, that dumps me out. 1997 Buick Riviera.
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀(from Down Under)
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Suggest 100% using a clay bar followed up with a premium wax. It will be a bit of work but well worth the effort. I have had excellent results with a ‘63 Buick Riviera that was repainted many years ago in the same Arctic white before I bought it. Paint was good single stage acrylic but the clay bar made a huge difference. 😀😀😀😀
Just work one panel at a time and be prepared to spend time on each one to get it smooth. I ran out of the lubricant supplied so ended up using water with a tiny amount of detergent. You will feel by hand the difference in the smoothness of the painted surface. Pay particular care to any imperfections as they will come out but you may need some cut and polish on those. Flat surfaces on the boot lid, roof and bonnet (trunk lid, roof and hood) will have had more exposure to contamination through fallout, bird droppings etc and will need more work than the sides.
On completion at the next Coffee N Cars event I was paid the highest compliment by a stranger. He thought I had just had it repainted!
And since then, Roger, the next custodian has not done any further work on the paintwork apart from keeping a cover over it when garaged.just my two bobs worth!
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀
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Think it’s important to have just the one colour (primer) before you start spraying colour coats, otherwise if you have bare metal patches showing, you will create a patchiness that is often seen in bright sunlight. And to rectify that issue you will often need to apply a lot more coats of paint to fix it, some colours having better opacity than others.
Once all the highs and lows are addressed, then a uniform thin final coat of primer will make sure that won’t happen. I’m no spray paint expert, but have painted a lot of stuff and that’s my take on it!
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀
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Just a quick update. Did our Boys Breakfast run today to a little cafe just North of Goolwa, and return, about a 40mile round trip. Got to check the transmission oil when it was hot and just needed a slight top up, erring on the side of full rather than just under. (That’s me 😀)
Gotta say, all shifts smoothly and quietly, Riviera runs smooth and quiet, a nice Buick to drive. Then had Dido accompany me for most of the journey, “Life for Rent”.
Very pleased now all the fluids are changed and all working as it should. Very pleased!
Next project is to add some small markings on the speedometer to match the most common speed limits we have here, making it a tad easier for me to see at a glance. Otherwise I’m try to calculate each time as the Kilometre markings are a bit smaller than I would like.
And just a quick photo from todays run.
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀
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Wayne, another subtle way I have seen down under is to add the vehicle details on the number plate. Looks smart and helps give interested parties a clue. Fitting a Buick dealer number plate frame would also help too!
We had the ‘97 Riviera at Port Pirie and a couple guessed it was a Rolls Royce because of the R symbol on the front and rear, no other Buick identification.
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
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I had issues trying to convert my ‘38 to LEDs (6V) in the front as park/turn signal. Fitting one globe all worked as it should with nice bright park lights and great turn signal with good flash rate. Fit the other globe and both lamps would flash as it appeared the earthing pin in the LED globe was wired for both “filaments”.
Very frustrating and I lost hours and hours trying to get them to operate as they should. Ended up going back to standard globes in the front. You can see on the photos the diagram kindly sent by KongaMan showing the issue and if you want to read more about my dilemma go to my topic in the Pre-War Buick section. Help with LED turn signals on ‘38
Now a word from our sponsor: Believe the better quality LEDs from Super Bright LEDs will possibly work as I used them (12V) in the front for my ‘63 Riviera without issue. And when one failed after 12months posted me a replacement (to Australia) no charge.
Retro fitting LEDs to these can be problematic and you have to ask do the benefits outweigh the investment in lost time, as they are usually not plug and play as suggested.
BTW have no affiliation with Super Bright, just a happy returning customer. Others may have had better success.
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
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On 8/22/2024 at 10:54 PM, Buick35 said:
Hi,I'm I the U.S. but I always wanted to visit Austrailia.I almost did while stationed in Vietnam for r.and r. but got injured and never made it.If I ever do are there any old Buick clubs or cars I can see? I have a 35 40 series and have a picture of an Australian one with Holden bumpers that are different than mine other than right hand drive what else is different? Just wondered. Greg
Hi Greg,
if you happen to be in West Australia (Busselton) in early October (9th to be precise) we will be holding the Australian Buick Nationals from then till the Sunday where you will get to see, hear and touch lots of Australian and imported Buicks of all years.
Being hosted by the West Australian Buick Car Club, members and their Buicks will be attending from all parts of Australia. And as a visitor you would be most welcome to join in the activities and members would be happy if you joined them in their cars.
Another book that would interest you and other Buick enthusiasts is “The History of Holden Since 1917” which gives details about the design and assembly of Buicks (and Chevrolet, Pontiac, Oldsmobile and Cadillac) using locally produced bodies on imported chassis. Lots of photos and production numbers as well as a chapter on the unique Australian all enclosed coupe body style (sloper) designed and built here.
Hope this helps, hope to see you “down under”
cheers Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀
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46 minutes ago, brasscarguy said:
Back in the day working in an auto parts store we stocked the plastic distributor drive gear and the clip and pin as a kit. We had a contest to see who could get the most money for the kit.
I remember 1 Sunday a guy came in needing the gear and he was from the other side of our state. My co-worker got $24.95 plus tax. Of course the guy paid the price, it was a quick and easy fix and he was able to get home. The gear kit retailed for $3.95.
just sayin'
brasscarguy
Funny bout that! Back in the day, I was a Parts Interpreter ( Counter Hopper) for the large Chrysler Parts Distributor for our State, (Pun intended) and sold many of those gear kits myself for the Slant Six.
Should have remembered that’s what failed on these, but I think I removed all the Chrysler Parts Knowledge when I got interested in Pontiacs and Buicks. I also think that we probably didn’t want to mess too much with what we had, given it was a flipper, though no doubt, with a running engine, would have been worth more $$$$$$$
Gee, that was err more than …… sheesh ….. 45years ago 😳😳😳😳😳
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀
PS but can still remember quite a few Chrysler part numbers for some of the fast moving items. 😀
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On 8/12/2024 at 9:54 AM, PhilAndrews said:
Yup. It's still here.
Phil
Hi Phil,
Just had another enjoyable read through your posts as I had not visited here for a while.
Great story and gotta give you a bravery award for tackling the transmission like you do. Admire your determination to get it right by trying to understand how that complex system works.
The heat and humidity where you live must be a constant fight with the Pontiac, but it always seems to come out in front. And great that you are prepared to fix the original parts if you can rather than just throw new parts at it. Please keep up the blog, very entertaining!
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
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On 2/11/2024 at 7:45 AM, junkyardjeff said:
It's done.
Jeff, how are those model engines ever going to fire up without an ignition system?
Remember as a teenager painting nylon fishing line matte black, drilling holes in the distributor cap and the block and inserting the “plug wires” into the model. Gave the engines that bit of extra detail that really showed, especially over the chromed valve covers.
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
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On 2/12/2024 at 1:31 PM, junkyardjeff said:
Making a list of the paint that I need to replace,they are getting close to 3 dollars I think .
On 2/21/2024 at 4:13 AM, jpage said:I've started using some of the acrylic paints with my airbrush with good results. The finish resembles a faded or unbuffed appearance which works well on some commercial vehicles. Works well for interiors too, so you don't have that real glossy appearance to the fabric. I've just started to complete or restore several old models that I've had lying around for at least 30-50 years. Odd how those old "rubber" or vinyl tires shrink down and get really hard over the years and the "chrome" disappears from the plastic over time! I've also noticed how many of the AMT kits were basically broken down promotional models in their construction with little fine detail and not perfectly scaled, but they did build into a pretty nice model. Todays offerings are better detailed and more intricate in their assembly but cost about 15 times more than in the '60's.
If you are wanting to keep your model paints fresh and stop them from drying up, wrap a piece of inexpensive masking tape around the lid to stop the air getting to it. Make sure the lip of the jar or tin is wiped clean first.
Have used this method for storing Humbrol, Floquil and Tamiya brand paints and rarely get one dry up on me.
Masking tape is cheap compared to the cost of running to the hobby shop to buy the paint you need RIGHT THERE AND THEN!
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
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Interesting what you are doing. If you can get to a local model railway swap meet you should pick up some N scale bargains. Some model railway shops often have second hand bits too!
A Walthers catalogue, even older ones will be your friend showing what is available from shops. And Evil Bay might have some N scale bargains too.
And don’t get too fussed about exact scale, if it looks right, close enough! Older Model Railroader magazines will give you clues about perspective and other aspects of modelling diorama's.
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
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9 hours ago, Mike Oleary said:
I am new to this site
just comprleted removal and replaced a packing in torque ball. found a piece of packing in it. made up a cotton filament which workd
After repair. picked up quite a vibration which was not there prior to repair
Car was very smooth cruiser except for clutch chatter in first gear
Any ideas?
Hi Mike,
if you do a search in the Pre-War Buick section you will find gobs of information on r&r the torque ball with some great write ups and a step by step with pictures. You would also do well by asking the question down there as well.
But you need to include pictures, as we all like to look!
They are a very helpful bunch and speak fluent Buickese!
just my two bobs worth Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀 -
9 hours ago, EmTee said:
You should be glad to get that old fluid out of the system.
The stuff you expelled looks very much like what came out of my wife's '93 Allante'.
Yes EmTee, was very pleased to see the old fluid go. I was not sure what to expect given zero service history. Although the old fluid looked dark, it appeared clean enough. Apparently the dark colour is from the carbon in the rubber components.
All about peace of mind, knowing all the fluids are changed and within spec. We have a long trip planned soon, so wanting everything right. 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
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Today was the last of the fluids to be changed. Brake fluid.
Did a test with the old fluid the other day by mixing it with water to confirm it was still DOT 3 brake fluid and not a silicone based product.
The shop manual confirmed the order for bleeding as RHR, LHR, RHF and LHF and gave advice about depleting the booster first, then slowly pushing the pedal and bleeding the fluid through a hose into a jar part filled with fluid. Also cautioned about not pumping the pedal and allowing a minimum of 15seconds between bleeds.
Chose to remove each wheel as I went to make access easier and had my trusty helper Jo assist in the pedal department, with her counting 20 elephants between cycles. Bled each cylinder/calliper with 15 cycles to remove as much of the old fluid as we could. Had already used a large syringe to suck out the master cylinder reservoir (which holds plenty).
The old fluid was a bit dark, but didn’t look sinister. In total we replenished almost a litre of fluid, so very happy about that. Given that it was not a difficult task, will revisit the system in a few years time.
Pictures of what happened. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
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If you don’t find any here, Might be worth a look on evil bay, where I found my set of two tomes for my ‘97!
Just my two bobs worth
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀
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Well, some more progress today, with a transmission fluid service. 😀😀😀😀
Was not too keen on disturbing a transmission with only 14,650miles on it, yet as there is no service history provided with this Buick, was not wanting to assume any of the PO had ever replaced the transmission fluid.
Owners manual states it only ever needs to be changed at 50k miles if subject to heavy traffic, police work or towing but this thing is over twenty five years old and sure Buick engineers were not thinking of that longevity.
Using a large syringe style extractor with a length of clear PVC hose attached was able remove 5.422litres through the dipstick tube, which is just under what removing the pan would achieve. The system holds 10.4litres dry, so even removing the pan would never achieve a complete refill!
The fluid removed looked clean and fresh, cherry red in colour and there was no burnt smell at all. It felt slippery and not gritty at all.
My plan is to revisit the oil change at another time soon (perhaps) and repeat the process!
Pictures or it never happened!
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
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On 8/9/2024 at 12:42 AM, A_Hartman said:
My problem: I am an almost 59 year old woman with some pretty severe back issues and also not a lot of resources. I’m currently in the “try to fix it myself” phase and will enlist my two sons help. WHERE TO START?Hi, you have already made a great start already by posting on this forum. There is a great wealth of knowledge here and people who are only willing to help and advise.
This project is like eating an elephant. You have to take small pieces one at a time. But have a plan about what you want to achieve. It’s a hobby, to enjoy and have fun and learn new skills!
Document what you do with lots of pictures. Organise a good comfortable work space. And try and achieve at least one thing every day, regardless of how trivial or small it may be.
Looking forward to your progress with lots of pictures! Pictures or it never happened.
Just my two bobs worth
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀
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5 hours ago, Paul White said:
Thanks Rodney, it won't be long till you take the Riv across the Nullarbor will it? I understand you may be travelling with some people from NSW? 1700 miles of this!
Yes, not long now. Really looking forward to the journey. Just a couple of more things to get ready! Getting excited!
cheers
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
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Hi Paul,
This person (Loren) has a lot of Skylark parts advertised and may be worth an email. Have not dealt with them personally however have seen them on the Buick forums constantly.
Otherwise as EmTee suggests.
Once the level is known, you can often modify or fabricate a dipstick from another GM that will work until the correct one falls in your lap.
Good hunting
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀
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5 hours ago, JoYoung said:
Thanks for the info! I am checking fluids regularly. I just received shop manuals that I ordered. I'm taking pictures and saving receipts and spending a lot of time doing research on it. I've already read through a bunch of the threads here and learned a lot!
Well done, that is a great find!
You may want to consider starting a post under Me and My Buick where you can share what you are doing with your Buick as you go! It is a great way to reach out to other Buick owners for advise and parts and to share the sheer enjoyment and frustration of owning one!
And don’t forget the Pre-War Buick forum for technical advise and assistance from some very helpful and knowledgeable people on there!
Welcome aboard the Good Ship Buick!
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
61 Buick skylark 2 door coupe GAS TANK
in General Discussion
Posted
Not 100% sure, but it looks very similar to the one I took out of my ‘63 Skylark convertible to clean. Possibility that all 61-63 coupe, sedan and convertible used the same tank, but cannot verify. Here is mine to compare.
There is also a Facebook forum for these that you may want to join and post.
Good luck with your search
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀