tomsupon1

Very nice Jack. I'm not that far along yet. I am working on replacing the wood pieces first.

Thank you for your insight on center post removal. I will try it out soon.

Hello all. I thought I would give you some pictures of my progress. All the metal is removed from the coach with the exception of the two door center posts and some of the wire track covers. Does anyone know what I have to do to remove the metal from the door posts? Looks as if I have to bend the flanges, but do not want to do that until I am sure that's the only way. I also ordered a master parts book. The next phase will be disassembly and starting on remanufacture of the parts. Have a great day.

John email sent. Thanks

It's all one word no spaces

Try restoration stuff.com. The show them in their catalog

Here are a couple of pics of the instrument panel that I had someone paint the lettering for me.

Here are some pics Leif.

Hello dibarlaw. It's a series 40.

XLeif is the link you provided to the same book you are referencing?

Sorry for the miss spelling of your name Leif. My apologies.

Hello Lief. What manual are these pages out of? It looks like I will need one of these manuals as well.

Sorry Michael I can't help only have the one from my series 40

Leif I have one of these. Unfortunately it does not have measurements for what I would need. But thank you for the suggestion.

Thanks Hugh. I sent you an email with my contact info.

Hello and thanks Don and Hugh for your responses. Hugh do you know what the differences between you 1925 and my 1930 would be? The rear aft floor beam and some of the aft upper rear window supports are very badly rotten that I cannot piece it together. I guess I will need to find someone who has templates that I can use. Any suggestions?

Hello all fellow Buick fans. Has anyone found a manufacturer of wood kits for the cab? I see a gentleman at Autowood Restoration makes complete kits. Mostly for Chevy. Can anyone tell me if there is a difference in the framing used between Chevy and Buick. Both cabs are made by Fisher and I would think there is not much difference if any. I can't think that that Fisher was big enough back then to make different cabs for all the models and manufactures they supported. One would think that wood pieces were made in one building or shop and transported to another for assembly. I could be wrong though. Any info would be greatly appreciated

The only place I know of is Bobs Automobilia. Unless others who are watching this thread know of somewhere else. I am glad you have it figured out.

Thanks Michael for the insight. The radiator is out of the housing and the thermostat is removed from the radiator. I had grind the head off of the fastener at the first joint that connects the thermostat to the mechanism to move the louvers. There was no cotter pin in this nor a hole for one. I could not get a good bite on the head so I did what I did. I will need to make a new pin at a later date. Also the whole mechanism and louvers are rusted and will not move so I have them soaked down with PB Blaster and will continue for a bit before attempting to free them up. Again thanks Michael for the assist!!

Also how do I get the radiator out of the shell?

Hello Michael. Thanks for the insight on the thermostat. I am n need of a rebuild as well and will give Jim a call as soon as I can figure out how to get the unit out of my 1930 series 40 radiator. How do you get to the linkage to disengage it from the louvers? I am guessing that once this is done I can remove the 4 screws holding the thermostat and remove it as an assembly. Am I correct in my assumption?

Hi Kevin. Your issue I do not believe to be grounding. You said that the dash lights work and I assume that when you checked the wires at the bottom of the column that the gears also moved when you select bright, dim etc? One of the wires at this area should have voltage and should connect to the other wires as the switch is placed in different positions. Is there voltage present at this switch?

Thanks Joel's. You have a lot of info here and if I read it right black locus would be to hard to work.

Thank Restorer and Bob for all of your inputs. Looks like ash it will be.

Thanks Taylormade. So looking at ash it's considered a soft hardwood and is subseptable to rot. Wouldn't a hard hardwood that is not subseptable to rot be better? I was looking at black locust. Or is it the workability that makes ash better to use? Or is the soft hardwood better at obsorbing the shock of constant movement while driving?